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This is Jan's diary. If you want to receive this diary by mail, write your mail on the contact form.

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Yuguslavia

Beograd (see on map)

04/05/2006:

If there is not any surprise, tomorrow I will leave Belgrade. I will have been there more time that I had planned. In some way, I have found good friends and I have spent very nice time. In other way, next Monday I have to meet a friend in Sofia, therefore I am delaying a little my arrival in Sofia.

Belgrade is a big city, of more than two a million inhabitants, maybe too big to be the capital of a country that has become small. In the centre of Belgrade is breathed modernity. The girls clothe the last models and stroll ignoring the boys that from time to time they twist for admiring a silhouette. The bars and terraces are always full starting at noon. And at the evening, the many discotheques or clubs of the city fill with party, even if it isn’t weekend.

Yesterday I went to the embassy of Russia, it was closed, but through the speaker they commented me that I could go on Friday. They couldn’t tell me what I needed for a Visa for Russia, but at least the passport, a photo, documents and maybe a letter of recommendation. Tomorrow I will go there to see if there is luck again and I can keep on preparing the documents in order to have soon the Visa. It should be probably much better to obtain the visa before having pioneered the journey, but the former weeks I was very busy finishing agreements with the sponsors, emptying the flat, organising the caravan, attending the media...

I sent a message to Sanja for meeting today instead of yesterday, because yesterday I was working a lot. Anyway, Sanja has sent me a message today that did not suit it. Misfortune.

In the evening I meet Edita and two friends more, but they were quite tired and they went soon to sleep. I also, after drink a beer in some quite cheerful local with salsa music. Pity that I do not like salsa, I’m a "free styler" and I do not like when a concrete coordination has to be followed.

Today I have continued working, I have continued connecting to Internet, going to take photos... I have started to overwhelm of being in the same city without doing any new thing and I have decided to go next day. Hogar had given to me a guide book of Serbia and I will use it to organize the weekend visiting small towns between Belgrade and Sofia.

Anyway, it also regretted me to go, because I knew on Friday in the evening there would be big party. But I have decided to go out tonight to party to see off. I have gone out only with the equivalent of 6 euros in the pocket, it is a rare sensation to know that it would be enough for all the night, because Belgrade is quite economic.

First I have entered to a bar where several local groups were playing heavy music. They played quite well. There I have known two boys and a girl who were friends of one of the batteries. They have been very nice and very interested to advertise all the world that Belgrade is very good. I have not gone to sleep too late, even though, before I have gone to other local where some musicians played africo-latin music.

05/05/2006:

I have awakened early for going to the embassy. There I has attended for a very nice boy who has commented me to have the Russian Visa I needed basically a booking of hotel or an official invitation. He has recommended me an agency in Belgrade and I have directed there. In the agency, a girl has commented me that the hotels that they could reserve were expensive than 50€ per night. We have been commenting on several possibilities and in the end I have decided to try it in Sofia.

I have gone to the cibercafe of the former days and have consulted everything about Russian visas. I have discovered an agency that has office in Sofia that transacts official invitations at a quite economic price. I have put all my hopes in this possibility, next week I will see it.

At midday I have started to go towards Sofia. Going out from Belgrade I have taken the motorway, of two lanes at any direction, with the fear it would be very expensive. For this motive I have gone out in one of the first exits in order to take a secondary road that had to lead me to one of the towns which I wanted to visit. But on the exit, the girl who charged has communicated me a price of some 6 euros (only for some 30 kilometres!). But I did not have enough local coins and have paid half with euros and half with dinars.

Some kilometres beyond I have stopped at the entry of a town, in an esplanade, to study the map. While I was studying the monuments to visit, a man clothed with a blue jacked and the blackened hands has knocked the door. I have lowered the window and he has greeted me smiling. He has commented me with a quite acceptable English that he lived in the home of the front. I have commented him that it was very beautiful and then he has invited me to visit it. And why not?

I have gone there finishing eating a red pear that I was tasting. He has taught some pictures to me that he had painted or friends of his, all them were landscapes and portraits of Mickel Jacson. Afterwards he has commented me that he had been a lot of time working in several countries in west Europe and that soon he wanted to go again. He has started to explain that the situation in Serbia is not good since the end of the war and then I have asked him to interview him. He has asked me if he would appear on television and when I said yes he has accepted flavourfully.

Stevanavik (this was his name) has commented that the main problem of the world was in Iran and with its president. But immediately he has wanted to explain the problems of Serbia. He has explained that in Serbia there is a lot of unemployment, that the infrastructures are very bad, that he can not travel even to Croacia, that they will not be able to enter into the European union even very further on... and all this, according to him, due to a unique person, and also to United States.

During all the time that I have been with him, I have noticed that he would like I stay to sleep there, but I have indicated him that I preferred to keep on going. He also asked me what "Araguela Paraguela" meant, an inscription that there were in the grave of his mother who had died years behind in Palma of Mallorca. I have not known how to reply and finally I have agreed to accompany him to the cemetery.

Stevanavik has risen to the Hymer and also a woman, that I didn’t knew and nobody presented to me. We have stopped halfway to buy some candles and finally we have arrived to a cemetery in the middle of the field with many graves of black granite. He has distributed the three candles, one for me, and we have switched on them and have deposited them in a small box behind the grave. Afterwards we have gone without insisting about the inscription "Araguela Paraguela", which I have deduced was the town or the beach where she died.

Before seeing off I have asked to Stevanavik who wrote his name. He also has written me his direction and it has surprised me that after Serbija he wrote Yugoslavija.

I have gone ahead, with the intention of sleeping near a monastery that I will visit tomorrow. I have stopped in a gas station to ask for the way and also to load gas oil. I have paid them with visa but I have not understood the amount that I had paid. I have asked but none of both boys speak English. And when finally I was near to understand the amount they had charged me, one of the boys has given me 10€. I have not understood it, but then I have deduced that maybe yes, that they had charged me more.

The landscape in the south of Serbia has reminded a lot in Slovenia (with pardon for the Slovens friends that are reading this). Wavy mountains, of green colour, with homes scattered all over and few urban towns. The difference was in the roads, which many not fixed from the war. There is a great economic difference between Belgrade and the rest of the country.

Serbia

Nis (see on map)

06/05/2006:

I have spent the night in a service area in Markovac, beside a Motel. In awakening, and after writing a little, I have gone towards Despotovac and from there to Manasija, a beautiful monastery in the middle of the mountains and surrounded by walls. The inland of the monastery there are a very interesting frescoes. When I was going to take some photos with the tripod, a women monk has told me that I could not take photos, but seeing that other visitors were taking, afterwards I have token them discreetly.

From Manasija I have directed towards Ravanica, another monastery. On the way I have seen a gas station that they had a tap of water in sight. I have return back to ask them if I could load the Hymer of water. They haven’t show any inconvenient. In the gas station of yesterday, when I asked to load the caravan with water, the boy appeared with a bottle of 2 litres. He did not understand me when I told him that I needed 100 litres.

Ravanica is also in the service of some women monks. The walls of the monastery are half demolished but the monastery is very well preserved and in the inland there are also some very well worked paintings.

Since I have entered into Serbia I’m interested in the orthodox rite. The churches usually have an unique dome. In the centre there are the images of a saint and also in the laterals. The people approach, do she crucifix sign, make reverences and finally a kiss the images. Sometimes they leave some coins or a note on these images.

Going out from Ravanica I have asked to a man how to arrive to Zajecar, one town in the east were I had to pass if I wanted to avoid the motorway. The man, who seemed to have lived the war, has told me that I should pay to him for his help but I have refused it. Then he has offered to helping anyway. But before he has asked me from where I came from, when I have told him that I was from Spain he has said me: "Solana, very bad, he bombed us a lot". I have no other way that say yes.

To arrive to Zajecar, I have had to take the motorway 10 quilometres and I have had to pay 3 euros. I have the sensation that these are the most expensive motorways in the world, or perhaps they charge my caravan like different type of vehicle.

In Zajecar I have stopped to buy in a supermarket. I have gone out without checking out if I had closed all cupboards . It had happen others times, but this time, instead of falling dawn a can, a jar of glass with bolonyesa sauce has fold down . Obviously it has broken and the 500 grammes of sauce has scattered over my flip-flops and the floor.

Finally I have arrived to Nis, where I will sleep. Since yesterday at noon to today at the evening I have droved 464 kilometres circulating for different Serbian road. Going though motorway I would only have droved 240 kilometres, but I would not have been able to visit both monasteries nor either would have enjoyed the landscape and the roads. I enjoy a lot driving for small roads, even if they are full of jerks. From time to time I stop in a gas station, shop or stop of bus and I ask for the good direction. The people are very nice and even if they do not usually speak English with little gestures they know how to orientate me very well. After these two days I think that I can already face any road, as tortuous that it is, because I will not stop enjoying it.

Bulgaria

Sofia (see on map)

07/05/2006:

(Serbia) In the morning I have visited Latinska Crkva, a small lost church in the mountain. It is the most ancient monument in Nis and has remembered me the ancient Romanesque churches scattered over the mountains of Catalonia, simply that this was of orthodox style. It is not necessary to say that to arrive to there I have had to ask a few times, but as always, people have always been very nice and have guided me perfectly.
At noon I have started to go towards Sofia. In this stretch there was not any more motorway, but the roads seemed the same ones which I had circulated on the former days, or worse, because they were under work and all the traffic have been diverted during varying kilometres through a dusty track.
At the border, a long queue of cars has been formed during more than one hour, time I have used to wash the caravan. Because this hour in the border, bad roads and the change of hour I had to do in Bulgaria, I was being very late to the appointment that I had with a girl in Sofia, Ivana. I have sent her a message to delay two hours and a half the meeting.
It has not been too difficult me to find the centre, but there it was bent of signals of prohibited to park during the day. I have parked behind one signal that I did not understand, I have taken a show and I have gone out to find Ivana.
While I waited her I have entertained to reading posters written in Cyrillic characters. Hogar from Belgrade, and also Szymon and Krzysiek, had written me on a paper the correspondence between Latin characters and Cyrillic characters. Now I was making the process of the small children: I searched a word, I deciphered the letters, I joined them, I read the word and sometimes I understood the meaning, and then I became very happy.
Ivana is an easy, nice and very sociable girl. We have gone to look at the car park of the Hymer and she has commented me that it would probably be taken away the following day. Then she has proposed me to sleep at its grandmother home, that is empty. We have gone to see it and it was very cosy, but it was quite far from the centre and I have commented her that I preferred to sleep nearest the centre. Finally we have parked in a blue zone near her parents home.
She has proposed me to go to drink a tea and I have offered her to prepare it in the same caravan, and so we do it. We have been talking very distendedly about journeys, personal subjects, projects... While, we talked I kept on showing her photos of my journey on the computer. Some minutes ago she had spoken me about a friend of her that had visited her a pair of weeks ago, Hugo,. When all of a sudden, while I showed her the photos of Budapest she has exclaimed:
- He is Bruno!
She has looked at me unbeliever and me also to her. She has repeated again:
- He is Bruno! do you know him?
- Not, it is a photo that I made in the street, simply I wanted to photograph this couple who was waiting for the tram.
Which chances, not? I only must have photographed some 10 or 20 persons in all Budapest, a city of 2 million citizens, and her friend results being one of these 10 persons that I photograph! It has been difficult to her to accept that I was not making her any joke and that really I did not know her friend.
Already in the late afternoon. I have proposed to interview her to take the pulse of the world with her. She has accepted but a little constrained at the beginning. Ivana believed that the main problem of the world was that people and nations do not understand not respect themselves. One of the problems of Hungary is that they are too nationalistic and they can not free themself from the past (before the world-wide wars Hungary was much bigger). Ivana considered herself happy, even though it was not bad to feel sad sometimes to appraise the happiness. She would be happier with things than can’t be possible. The secret of the happiness is to do small good things every day.

08/05/2006:

This morning, while I was writing, someone have pricked the door. First I thought that would be the collector of the blue zone and I have not opened. But afterwards I have heard my name. Then I have opened the door and there was Ivana. She has commented me that the police was writing me a fine and they will call a crane if I didn’t park somewhere else. Next, she has indicated me a new placement where I could park. We have agreed on she will go to search for me this evening in the new car park.
In the morning I have gone to the centre of touristic information. I have asked for the map of rigour, where I could find cibercafès, a laundry (there is not any), where the Russian embassy is, and to show me in a map the direction of the agency of Sofia that transacts visas.
I have gone there and have come back strolling. Sofia is a calm city, a lot. There is not much traffic in centre. The people seem relaxed, dresses in a simple way, without showing. The parks, as everywhere there are resting people, but here have found people playing chess. I have been observing a little how they played, the played good and betting money, not much. I have asked if I could play and at the beginning they didn’t like it. But when I have commented them that I did not play better than them, they let me play. I have played three matches betting half an euro to each one. I have lost all three. They played good and I didn’t play chess for long time. I believe that some of them survived by playing chess.
In the afternoon I have kept on walking to the direction that had found on Internet of the agency that transacts visas (www.visatorussia.com). It was on a residential neighbourhood and the direction agreed in a block of flats. In one of the buttons of the door there was writted with pencil: "Ekmo". The name of the company I had was "Ekmoex". I have knocked there and the door has opened. I have risen and a man of some sixty years has attended for me. He didn’t speak any English but has understood that I wanted a visa for Russia. I have understood that he did not transact visas, but then he has given me a card that came from Finland with a Visa inside. It was not obviously my visa and I have tried him to understand that the visa wasn’t with my name and that I needed one with my name. Then he has told me that his son transacted visas. I have asked him when he would arrive, but he did not live there. Finally the man has phoned his son and gived me the telephone. Then everything has been solved. Emil (the son) spoke good English and he has commented me that he transacted Visas. The cost would be 100 $ included everything and I would have it Friday in the morning. He has indicated me the documentation that I would need. Then it has only been question of going to the Hymer, this time by bus, to come back, to give the father the passport, photos and information and to come back towards the centre. Before closing up in the caravan I have gone shopping in a small supermarket.
As we had remained, Ivana has came and we have gone to dinner. She has proposed me to go to a very cosy restaurant-pizzeria near her work. The dinner, which we have accompanied with a bottle of bulgar wine, has passed very placidly speaking about our lives in a very transparent way. Strolling after the dinner, I have explained the argument of the novel that I wrote last year and which I did not achieve to publish it. And while I was explaining it I have taken a very important decision, in some years, when I finish the journey and supposing that I achieve to publish the experiences of the journey and of the project, I will re-write the novel again from zero, I would like to improve it in many aspects.
I like Ivana, I feel quite good with her. She knows how to listen, also she knows how to show herself as she is. She has desires to get excited, to feel free again. She gets excited about what I explain to her. She is sensitive, sometimes reserved. She needs to feel loved, as everybody maybe.
Tomorrow in the afternoon we will go to visit some town to some 100 kilometres from Sofia by her car.

11/05/2006:

I have spent three fantastic days in Sofia (and an afternoon in Plovdiv), pity that the weather haven’t been good every day. I have spend quite a lot of time with Ivana, another good friend that I will leave behind. However, who knows, perhaps we see again in some other place.
I spend the afternoon of Tuesday in Plovdiv with Ivana. We went there by her car. Plovdiv is the second city more important of Bulgaria, with a certain rivalry with Sofia, because the inhabitants of Plovdiv consider that their city is with much more charm. It’s really true that the environment of Plovdiv is very different from Sofia. It has an ancient helmet climbed among five hills, with the paved streets, some churches, a roman theatre, homes with the superior flats suspended on the street. Plovdiv, unlike Sofia, also has a long pedestrian street, with commercial shops, bars, and people who stroll calmly.
Yesterday in the morning I went to connect to a free Internet connection that an Irish Pub offered. After having lunch, I started to washing by hand part of the dirty clothes that I had. It was a little painstaking, but I will have to get used on it because not many cities of the east (and after Africa and Asia) will have automatic laundries. While I washed clothes Ivana has sent me a message that this evening she could not meet me and she proposed to go to take a coffee, immediately afterwards Rositsa has sent me a message also to meet.
Rositsa is a friend that I have been knowing for time across Internet, even though we have never meet. She is Bulgarian but she lives and works in Madrid. It happened that this week she was in Sofia, because on Friday her father has to be operated because a severe illness.
On Tuesday already I replied Rositsa that I could not remain with her because I went to Plovdiv, but this time I did not want to lose the occasion of knowing her in person, therefore, I only could stroll with Ivana a small while.
Rositsa is a so beautiful girl. She seam so secure of herself, and she must be in professional level, but as you know she you discover that, is and insecure girl like everybody, with desires to find the love of her life, a love that she does not find among the many men that knocked her door. Along the night it was visible her worry for the health of her father, even though at the same time she has a great hope that he will improve. She is an orthodox Christian, therefore, I wish deeply that God listen to her prays.
We have been speaking about many things but it has surprised me the explanation of why there are locals in Sofia that open all night and you can find party every day of the week. Fist motive is that the prices of the bars and restaurants are very economic -and really it is like this- and the second one is, the Bulgarians do not usually invest in their home, even if it is falling down. Therefore, even if they do not earn too much, they have resources for going out often to party or to drink. Also I would add that the Bulgarians do not spend too much on cloth, they dress well but they do not dress to show off.
Even if Sofia seems a safe city, I always bring a knife above, as in the majority of cities. I do not believe that I was capable of using it against anybody, but if I was in a critic situation it can be quite useful to intimidate. Anyway, the best way to never be robbed is to go relaxed, showing security, but at the same time to keep on controlling discreetly yours going round. If there are suspicious persons who follow you or control you, then stop in a shop and to let them pass. If this does not work, to put on the hands in the pocket making see that you bring a weapon, o even to show the knife discreetly. And if you see that you can be in an alley without exit to start to run. If you are in a good physical form, nobody will chase you to steal you. Well, this is my theory, we will see if it works during all the journey.
This morning I have gone the Russian embassy with a colleague of Emil that transacts the Russian visa for me. On arriving I have noticed that I had to pass through a detector of metals. I have thought that I could have some problems if they found the knife that normally I bring above and I have discreetly put it in the jacket. Then I have taken out the jacket and I have left it beside the detector. I have left it so that I showed that in the jacket I brought an umbrella. Then I have passed and I have taken the jacket. The guard said anything to me. I could have brought a bomb and I would have been able to entered it equally. I do not know then why they invest so much in devices and guards.
Two days ago, Emil sent me a message commenting me that the Russian embassy did not open every day of this week and that they had to opt for a procedure of urgency that cost 140 $ instead of 100 $. I was answered him to continue with the process, but I asked Ivana to call the embassy to ask if really they where close (it wasn’t). Emil has came to the embassy and I have attempted to negotiate the 140 $ with him, but I have seeb if I did not agree on the price he halted the process. I have accepted the fixed price.
In the Russian embassy I had to meet the consul. Curiously the consul spoke Spaniard and only on entering he has briefed me in a very kind way of not being able to transact my visa. He has commented me that, in spite of having an correct invitation (the one who had provided me Emil), the Russian embassy in Bulgaria had the rule of transacting only visas of residents in Bulgaria. I have asked him if it was a question of money and he comment me that no. It was impossible. Anyway, the invitation was correct and it could be very useful to achieve the visa from another country. I have asked to Emil what I should pay to him for the invitation and he has surprised me when, while excusing himself for not having been able to transact my visa, he has given me the invitation without any cost. A great bargain, because in spite of having lost one morning, I will be able to transact the visa from another country and it will be much more economic.
I have had lunch with Ivana in a typical Bulgarian restaurant. Naturally we have eaten a salad as an entrée. It is the typical Bulgarian dish and there are of many types, normally half a card is dedicated to the salads. And she have explained to me, not only they eat them in the summer, but also in the winter.
In the afternoon we have a great walk through Sofia visiting parks, markets, shopping centres, churches, a synagogue, a mosque. I continue thinking that Sofia is a very calm city with relaxed people. There are cars parked all over, but the traffic is inferior to other cities. There are also many destitutes that simply rest and live in their corner, without asking for charity, the same as in the rest of cities of the Europe of the East.
This days it has been difficult to me to orient myself through Sofia, to know where the north and the south was. I think that the snowed mountains that there are in the south are the cause, because in my country the mountains are allways in the north. These mountains have clues of ski at less than one hour of the city. In winter many people from Sofia go to ski in the afternoon, after working, because during the night the clues are illuminated.
In the evening, I have gone to connect to Internet in the Irish pub, because tomorrow I’m going towards Macedonia and probably I will be some days without connecting. While I sent the diary of two weeks ago I have received some very nice electronic mails from Ivana. Probably, if I could stay definitively in Sofia or she could leave everything, something had happened among us. But already I keep on accepting that hardly I will find partner of journey, or a simple temporary love. I accept it and this frees me, because I can be with a girl, even if she is very attractive and interesting, and simply observe her as a friend.

Macedonia

Skopje (see on map)

12/05/2006:

This morning, while I was thinking if to go for a stroll with bicycle through the city or go away, someone have pricked the door softly. I have opened the blind and there was Ivana. She has came a while before going to work. We have seen off with a strong embrace and she has given me a jar of typical tomato jam from Bulgaria. It’s name is Lutenica and the basic ingredients are tomato, pepper and garlic or onion. It is seen that all children in Bulgaria grows eating it, often greased in the bread.
Finally I have decided to go. I have gone out from Sofia orientating with the compass. I had to go in Southwest direction, direction to Macedonia. First the road was of double lane but in very bad state, however, halfway it has been of only a lane but in good state.
In Kjustendil, little before the border, I have asked to man stop taking care of a shop at the foot of the street which was the way towards Macedonia. The man has answered me in Spaniard I "do not understand, I only speak some Spaniard". Then I have commented him that I was from Spain and he has become very happy. He has indicated me the continuation of the way and afterwards he has explained to me that little time ago he was three months in Murcia picking up lemons.
At the border I have been able to record the crossing with the spy camera that www.mtvtelevigilancia.com left me. Pity that I has not connected a cable correctly and not gotten engraved the sound. In the customs of Macedonia, a policeman has wanted to check out that I did not bring anything to declare. He has looked at the toilet, the fridge, the freezer, the cooking, the sink, a cupboard... It seems to me that he only has gossiped instead of searching.
The road in Macedonia has been with the same good state. The landscape has changed a little, it has been wavy as the rest of the Balkans, but the green was a little drier. It is sensed that Macedonia is more in the South, as regards Greece.
Little before arriving to Skopje I have had to take the motorway, because according to my map there were not other roads. On the first toll I could not pay with card and I ask the price in euros. The boy there has told me 2€. I have given him 5€ and he has given me back 150 denars and a ticket of 50 denars. Distrusting I have stopped exactly after the toll and have looked the euro/denar change to the guide that I bring. I have calculated approximately that 5€ were 300 denars, therefore the boy of the toll had deceived me. I have gone in the middle of the cars and have claimed him that the change was bad and he had to give back 100 denars. First he has given me 50 denars, but I have repeated again that I said 100, afterwards I have seen that he was counting out 90 denars, but above the mostrador I have seen one bimilk of 100 denars and I have taken it. He has looked at me very badly but he has not told me anything. Some kilometres beyond I have found another toll, I have asked the price in English and the boy has said "2€", but have seen that the price was quite a lot lower with denars and have paid with the denars that I had. Again I have taken away a bad look.
It has surprised me on arriving to Skopje that instead of churches there was mosques (later I have given that there were also churches, but lower, because long ago they couldn’t been constructed higher than the mosques). I have attempted to park where I believed that the centre was, near the point of information, in the ancient city. But people who wandered for there have not seemed too much nice to me and I have moved the caravan towards the other side of the river. I have parked above sidepark, like the rest of cars, and I have gone out to stroll. This area, the south of the city is much more commercial, with a lot of youth strolling, streets restricted to the traffic, many bars and terraces...
In the evening, after working a little with the computer I have gone out to party. I have found a coffee very interesting where a group with music played rock-jazz. I have asked where the party followed and people have indicated me a club, but on arriving there it was too full. Outside I have known a couple that they have accompanied me to another club with electronic music. I have been quite a lot of while talking to this couple, the girl studied architecture and the boy had studied art, I had been 6 years in New York. Maybe this fact made him more open, because I have found that the rest of youth of Skopje was quite closed.

13/05/2006:

Today I have devoted good part of the day to stroll through Skopje, a city with two areas well differentiated. The south, where I have spent the night, does not have interest points but it is full of trades, terraces, bars... The people stroll calmly through the streets restricted to the traffic, near the river and a big square. From the square you can walk over a bridge that crosses the river. Just in the other side the environment changes drastically. The streets restricted to the traffic continue but instead of modern bars and trades they are full of shops and bars of Arab style. In this area the mentioned Turkish bazar is spread. In this side of the city also can be visited some Turkish baths converted now into museum, a church excavated partly underground (because before they could not raise a church higher than a mosque), several mosques, a big market with every type of products, a fortress,...
Just entering in the Arab city there is a point of touristic information. I have entered there, even though the guide Lonely Planet indicated that the deal that they exempted was not much good. I has been attended for a boy of Turkish builds. Contrarily to what the guide explained there has been the place where I have been briefed better. The boy has been incredibly nice, and even he has proposed me a very beautiful itinerary to arrive at Ohrid, the nearby city that I will visit. I have commented him what I had read in the guide and then he has explained me that sometimes there is another girl who is terribly unkind, but he can not change anything.
When I was going to visit the church of Sveti Spas, I have found an English guy with which I have pioneered conversation. He was working some months in Skopje with an NGO. We have gone to lunch together a kebab and before he went I have proposed him to take the pulse from of the world with him.
Marc, this was his name, thought that the main problem of the world was the poverty. The solution would be in creating or promoting local companies in the areas where there is poverty. Individually the solution would be on buying local and non international brands. The main problem of London was also the poverty, even though the social security also helps to solve the problem. Marc is very happy, without reason. He would be happier if he had his girlfriend with him. The secret of the happiness is to appreciate the things that we have.
When I was coming back of the walk, I have received a message in the mobile from a girl that I had contacted two days ago through Internet. She has proposed me to meet at 9:30 of the evening in front of the statue of the Mother Teresa. After working a little with the computer and of connecting to Internet, I have directed there.
Lily is a very sweet girl that is studying informatics. We have gone from the centre to drink a beer in a remote bar. She has been explaining me about the two months she spend in Spain, the cities that she visited, the parties... She has also been explaining me that the majority of the Macedonians (her included) does not like Albanians, normally Muslims and less educated (according to her). We have been speaking about feelings and nationalities. We have commented that the Serbian does not have adverse feelings with Macedonia, however Macedonia don’t like Serbia. However, Serbia and Croatia have adverse feelings mutually. She has compared it with Catalonia and Spain, that there are adverse feelings in both parts, and Catalonia and Valencia, with adverse feelings only on the part of the Valencians.
Lily has lost her bus. Then we have gone to dance to a club where a group played music and I have later brought her to her home.

Ohrid (see on map)

14/05/2006:

I have spent the night in front of Lily’s home, which lives on the outskirts of Skopje. Asking some times I have found the road that goes towards Ohrid, my nearby destination, a town beside a lake that made border with Albania. The road has become motorway during a few kilometres, but this time, in none of the three tolls I have passed, they have attempted to deceive me.
Past Gostivar I have turn right, as the boy of the office of tourism indicated me, and I have kept on following a small road at times with very good state and at times with big holes in the pavement. The road passed near some snowed mountains, among splendid forests and near three lakes dispersed along the path.
After the second lake I have stopped in the monastery of St. Joan Baptista, a monastery with some exquisite altarpieces of wood. In the second lake, while I made a photo of a hole that was in the middle of the water, a man who was waiting beside the road has pioneered a conversation with me with an null English. Then he has asked me if I could take him some ten kilometres beyond. The man seemed to be trustable and have token him. During the way he has explained to me in signs that he was married and that he had two sons and a daughter, also that he had a brother working in United States. Then he has asked me if I was married, and for not lengthening too much my answer, I have indicated him with signs that I was separate.
I have arrived at Ohrid with no idea of where the centre could be. But using the intuition and asking I have arrived there. I have parked beside a promenade that borders the lake. While I went down of Hymer a cross-eyed man has neared me and he has briefed me of not being able to camp there, then he has commented me that he could offer me a place to park the car. I have thanked him the information but I have explained to him that I would liven up.
I have strolled a little through the side of the lake and through the main street of the town, a street restricted to the traffic with a few bars, terraces and shops that has reminded me of the touristic streets of some town of Costa Brava (in Catalonia). I have drink a beer and I have come back to the caravan, where for the first time in the journey I have visualised a film that I had recorded in the comuter: "Samaritan Girl", a quite interesting Korean film.

15/05/2006:

I have been working big part of the morning, I have been writing the article of the 9nou newspaper, selecting cuts of voice of the interviews for Catalunya Radio, editing images... Just before noon I have come out to stroll though Ohrid, I have asked some local persons where the point of touristic information was, but nobody knew it. Anyway, asking I have kept on finding the majority of points of interest of the town.
Ohrid was still with the air of touristic town, but being Monday, there were more workers in the shops and streets than tourists. The ancient part of the town preserves paved streets that keep on climbing calmly mountain up. The main points of interest of the town are three mediaeval, very beautiful orthodox churches. The first is in the town, the second solitary on the lake and the third setting in the mountain. The town also have a citadel that was closed.
Before coming back to the Hymer, I have bought a calzone for an only euro. Afterwards, as I had planed, as I have connected to Internet to send the articles that I had written in the morning, I have gone to a shop of food to spend all the denars I had and I have continued going towards the south, bordering the lake of Ohrid.
In the office of tourism of Skopje they had recommended me to cross the border with Albania through the south of the lake of Ohrid, because just at the border, there is the interesting monastery of St. Naum. The church was lovely, the pity was that the rest of dependences of the monastery had become a hotel. Normally they do not let make photos in churches, but there, have left discreetly the camera on a pulpit and have left it made a photo automatically and it was enough good.
After visiting the monastery of St. Naum I have gone towards the border, very near. I have crossed the border of Macedonia without problems, but when I have arrived to the border of Albania they have briefed I should cross the border through the north of the lake, where there is the main road, because of the type of vehicle I was driving. I have attempted to argue a good while with them that this was not good for tourism but seeing that the rules were established, I have turned back. I have come back to the border with Macedonia and even though I had just crossed it in contrary way they have gived problems me to cross it again. During a good while I thought that I should stay to live forever among the border of Albania and Macedonia. The problem was that the documentation of the vehicle was at name of "Autosuministros Motor", the company that let me the Hymer. I had a document in Spaniard where it specifies this agreement. But the boy of the border argued that this document had to go through notary. Finally he has let me cross.
I have droved the 80 kilometres again in contrary way until the other cross border. I have crossed the border of Macedonia again without problems, but in Albania they have noticed again that the vehicle was not at my name. They have been analysing more than one hour the contract between "Autosuministros Motor" and me written in Spanish. But finally they have let me pass through after paying a rate of 3 euros for the vehicle and 10 euros for the visa.
When I’ve crossed the border it was already night. I have stopped a moment in a col to have dinner and I have continued till the beginning of one town. I have parked the caravan in a spare ground, on the other side of a pair of bars. My intention is always to sleep in inhabited zones, so, if someone never attempt to steal me during the night I can activate the alarm and generate a scandal that surely would frighten the bandits away.
I have started to reply messages of mail in the dark, when somebody has knocked at the door. I have switched off the computer and I have opened the blind of the window. A boy who has greeted me and has started to make me questions: "Do I travel with woman and children"?, I "Yes", " where are you going?" I "Tirana"... Finally he has told me that he was from the bar in front and that if I wanted it could go to take a coffee. Also he has commented me something about paying the car park but I have told him that it was not necessary. From the window I have seen how he went away till the bar and he entered there. If the boy was from the bar he would not be dangerous.
Anyway, when I already was attempting to start sleeping, somebody have knocked at the door again. I have opened the window again a little annoying. There was the same boy of before and he has asked me if I preferred to pay him the car park today or tomorrow. I have answered to him pointing out my annoyance that I did not pay any car park and I have closed the window and the blind noisily.

Albania

Tirana (see on map)

16/05/2006:

Tonight, I do not know which time it should be, someone have come back to knock at the door. I have not bothered to get up nor to reply. But they have continued knocking at the door. Then I have let sound the alarm half second. They have knocked at the door again. But after three more seconds of alarm they have left me alone.
I have been awakened again at six of the morning. This time they were not knocking at the door, but they were splashing the caravan with water at pressure. I have thought that they could not damage any thing and I have slept again.
Towards eight, while I was awakening again. Someone have turned on again the hose against the Hymer. I have gotten up and have noticed that the fridge did not work, probably because they had thrown water at pressure through the grid of ventilation of the gas. I have started to become of quite angry, and more when have noticed that some water trickled under the fridge. I have started to have breakfast but as have realized that they still continued splashing with pressure the Hymer I have decided to go immediately.
I have opened the blind and then I have seen that two boys of some eighteen years were soaping and splash the caravan. The truth is that before I had it quite dirty and more of one time had thought that I should wash it. They have greeted me smiling and I feel sorry to damn them with the blind closed. I have given two dollars to the boys, who have become very happy, and I have gone away with the very shiny Hymer.
On going have noticed that the area where I had parked was full of hoses splashing in all directions. I had parked in the centre of a car wash.
I have stopped some kilometres beyond and I have just had breakfast, I have had a shower and I have cleaned the caravan for inside.
I have continued the way towards Tirana through some very good roads. But halfway, in Elbasan, the road has started to climb through the mountain and become more tortuous. However, the landscape has become very interesting and beautiful. At the beginning of this new road there were many peasants selling plaits of cherries for less than 10 cents of euro. Even though I did not have local coin for buying them, when I stopped to take some photo of the landscape, they greeted me very cordially. The Albanians of the mountains seem very hospitable people.
During all the journey, has surprised me the great amount of Mercedes that circulated, new or old, it is the sane. I do not exaggerate if I affirm almost 50% of the cars that I kept on crossing, advancing me or advancing them were of the brand Mercedes.
Following the main road I have arrived to the centre of Tirana without problems. I have droved through the chaotic city and finally have parked in one of the main streets, with a big sign of prohibited to park but all full of parked cars.
I have gone out to stroll and the modernity of the city has surprised me. Here, aside of Mercedes, also circulated some Humers, these big North American all-road vehicles. The girls dressing to be looked and the boys walking with pride. Despite everything, the majority of buildings were decadents and the streets dusty, but maybe for little time, because many were with works.
In the map of the city there was a river drawn. When I have crossed it I have doubted if really that trickle of water was the river of the map. But really it was, because as the map indicated, some metres beyond was opened the big square of Skenderbeg, with four of the main monuments of interest of Tirana: a statue of a national hero, a mural in the façade of the Nacional Museum of History, a mosque and a tower clock.
I have entered into the mosque, asking for permission to the bearded boys of the entry and removing away the shoes. I have seated and have relaxed in the inland, while I admired the centennial paintings of the dome and observed some inclining believers direction the Meca.
Having visited the main monuments of the city, I have continued strolling without a fixed direction. There was great number of bars and terraces, the majority plenum of youth talking relaxed. I have drink a beer in one of them. The people, or maybe the youth, seemed a bit closed and in the evening have confirmed this sensation.
I wanted to ask where I could find some good locals with good music and I have asked some girls if they spoke English. They have moved back from me not even without responding. I have thought that the girls of Tirana should be shy and I have made the same question to a boy, but he has looked at me frightened and answered me "not" (he had understood me!). Finally I have listened somebody behind me speaking English and I have asked them. Two English have recommended me in a very kind way one local surrounded with a garden.
There I have drunk a beer beside some girls. Fearing the worst of the answers I have attempted to pioneer conversation with this girls who there were beside the bar, but contrarily what I though, they have been very friendly.
I have been all night talking with Glejda Ana, two students of economics and textile engineering respectively. They have confirmed me that the people of Tirara are usually very reserved, like on towns. Also they are very traditional. talking about Albania they have explained me that the economics is not too good, even though it is improving slowly. They have complained that there was not too much work (it seems to me that it is a world-wide problem). At the same time, Albania has great economic inequalities between rich people and poor people. And one fact resorting to non community Europe: they can not go out of the country without visa, it is very difficult to achieve it and they feel prisoners in their own country.
If I am sincere, Albania was the country of Europe that fears more to visit, perhaps because it was the last one to abandon communism , because I has been said that it is very poor or rather because I did not know anything about it. But after a day among Albanians, I will tell you that I feel very safe and accommodated.

17/05/2006:
This morning I have received a from of Catalunya Ràdio. I knew that to receive the call in Albania would be very expensive to me and I have told them that I would call them in charge reverted. But I have not been able to call from the public telephones nor either have found any point from where to be able to phone more economically. Finally I have agreed with Catalunya Ràdio on calling them on Friday.
At eleven of the morning I have to meet Glejda and Ana in the same bar of yesterday in the evening. Bravely, we have been following the threads of the conversation of yesterday. It has surprised to me that at mid day, the locals have filled in a full way. The explanation that they have given me is that it was the pause of the work and the people, instead of having lunch, they go to the bar to drink coffee or beer.
Later we have walk towards the south of the city where there is a park and on the center an one small lake. There we have relaxed to on the shadow of a tree and we have continued talking. They have explained me that almost nobody swim on the lake because the water is very dirty, and because in the last decade the government threw away cadavers of opposers. Anyway, they would not have to be there any more, because they also have explained to me that few years ago, a night the watcher of the lake took a drunkenness and opened the floodgates. The lake completely emptied out and the city came off flooded.
At three we have seen off until the evening. I have come back to the Hymer. While I was swallowing the lunch, somebody the knock with persistence at the door. It was a policeman who has told me I had to park in another place. I have asked him if I could finish having lunch and he has not said any impediment to me. But little later that one who has knocked the door has been a taxi driver, he has explained me in a very kind way that the caravan was well parked, the problem was that it was too big and the people did not see the taxis that there were parked right behind. After washing the dishes I have moved the Hymer to the other corner.
I have been working all the afternoon, writing the diary (you will already have read that I had many things to explain of yesterday), editing photos, translating the diary of Serbia to the English... Finally I have gone to a cibercafe to connect. I have read the mails, and in one of these, Marc, one of my best friends, had wrote to me "remember that tomorrow there is the match of the champions".
It was today! I had forgotten it completely and I had proposed a thousands of times not to lose this match. It was 8:30pm. I still had 15 minutes. I have gone out and I have started to run for all the streets until I have found a bar that in the morning I had seen. The bar was called "FC Barcelona". Anyway, if I had not found it no matters, because all the bars of the centre had giant screens with the match tuned and all the tables full of people prepared to look it.
The bar "FC Barcelona" was small, with the majority of Muslim viewers, very hospitable. The majority animated the barça, but there was also a few that encouraged Arsenal and attempted to create controversy. When Barça has scored the definite goal we have celebrated the imminent triumph with embraces. Finally I have gone singing the hymn of the barça through the streets.
I have gone to the local of yesterday in the evening to find Glejda and Ana again. Ana was with her guy and I have been, all the time talking with Glejda, a charming girl. Among many things, we have spoken about happiness. She asked herself who was happier: the people who live sit-in in their world or the people who discovers they can be free. I gave an opinion that if you learn to use your freedom you end up being more happy. When I have asked her about the secret of the happiness she has answered me something curious. She has explained to me that to guard secrets made her happy. We have also spoken about relations and of how the couple little by little keeps on requiring more of you. With respect to this last subject, after seeing off with a strong embrace, the following history has occurred to me.
A man knows a woman and sleeps the first night with her. The first night, to the man does not matter if the woman goes to bed with any other or not. In the second night, the man could accept that the woman had couple and that he was her lover. But after a week, the man only accepts that the woman shares the nights with him. After one month more, the man claims from the woman also shares the days with him. Pasts three months, the man only accepts to continuous the relation if the woman say bye to the other masculine friends. After half a year, either he does not accept that the woman looks at the men on the street. And past a year, the man requires to the woman that she stays at home closed.

18/05/2006:

I look at the photo that I have taken this morning and my heard splits again and again... An image that I have seen already other times, but it continuous hitting. It will be an image which I will be see in many of the countries that I will visit. In the middle of the street. The pedestrians attempt to ignore the scene. The two of them sleep, very deeply. Probably the cola pot helps to sleep in broad daylight. And the boy... it is much more impressive to observe this face of peace, unconcern and maybe happiness. The same happiness than the rest of the children.
I have lent some coins to them, but when I have came back, the coins had disappeared.

Gjirokastra (see on map)

19/05/2006:

Yesterday in the morning, after two unsuccessful attempts to connect to Internet (the connections failed to all Tirana) I started to go towards the south, with the intention of visiting some towns on the way before entering into Greece.
First I stopped in Durres, one town in the Coast, which in few years will become a good touristic place for the occidental Europeans: it is sunny 300 days of 365 days, it is economic, they are constructing many buildings, the people are nice...
From Durres I have started to go down through the coast and afterwards through the inland.
The roads at first were excellent, some kilometres with double lane and the rest with one lane but wide, this allowed the cars to overtake even if other cars came in frond. Few kilometres after Durres the roads have worsened a lot. In Serbia the roads were full of holes, but here were full of bumps, as if the asphalt had been given about the stones and roots.
During all the path I have kept on passing many controls of speed or simply of policeman (none have stopped me). I have crossed with hundreds of mushrooms of concrete, some defences that the dictator Enver Hoxha made construct with fear of a foreign invasion. To assure that the defences worked he sorted that one of these mushrooms was bombed with the main engineer in inside, he was lucky and alive. Also I have crossed many wells of oil, with rusty towers of metal, halted since time ago, except a pair that they still pumped. Side the road the peasants were with their daily work: watching herds of sheep, goats or caws, ploughing, piling straw... Unavoidably I also have found a car accident, it does not surprise to me because the way the Albanians drive. At the end on the journey, I have found a pair of turtles that crossed the road without looking.
I became dark before arriving to Gjirokastra, a town which I had planned to visit today. I stopped in a gas station in one small lost town with four houses in the middle of the mountains. I asked if I could stay to sleep there, and even though nobody of the presents spoke English, they communicated me that I could sleep calm. Then I asked them for another much more complicated favour to explain.
Today have I had to receive call of Catalunya Ràdio to sustain a conversation of some fifteen or twenty minutes. To receive this call to my mobile telephone was so expensive to me and I proposed Radio to call me to an Albanian telephone. In the gas station I started to ask with gestures that I needed a telephone number. The five or six boys who there were made the possible and everything to interpret what I was asking. Then the owner of the petrol station arrived but he did not understand me either and he suggested me to follow him. We rose through a sandy street in the dark till a home and there he started to call a name, until a girl went out. After speaking among them a while, the girl asked me with a very good English what I wished. I explained to her and she translate it to the owner. Then he said he will give me his number of mobile phone. Today at nine of morning he would be in the gas station and he would invite me to a coffee. And like this it has been, he has invited me to a coffee and I have talk some twenty minutes with his mobile. To be worth, I have loaded the Hymer with gas oil. I have paid with euros and a change he has made was not good, but I have naturally not argued to him.
Today I have arrived to Gjirokastra mid-morning. It is one town constructed with stones: the streets, the walls, the roofs... It has been pleasant to stroll there, even though it was terribly hot. On the top there is a big castle, also very interesting to visit and with very good sight.
After visiting Gjirokastra I have had lunch and I have then decided that I would cross the border instead of visiting other town that I had planned. At the border of Albania, the policemen have been a lot interested in my journey and photos. A very attractive police girl has given me her electronic mail so I will be able to sent her the diary.
In Greece, the landscape has changed completely, it surprise me. I thought that the landscape of Greece would be drier, but instead of this, it was very green. I do not know the reason, maybe Albania has a microclimate or maybe time ago felled the forests (or they burned) and this makes that it seems or is drier.
I have driven a hundred and fifty kilometres through Greece until I have found the first beach, I have swum a while, I have had a shower, I have had dinner, I have taken a glass of brandy and I have started to work a little.

Greece

Nafplio (see on map)

22/05/2006:

He hecho demasiados kilómetros sólo en tres días. He hecho poco más de mil circulando por pequeñas carreteras y alguna autopista de la península de Peloponnese. El principal motivo es que quería estar en Atenas el martes. Por una parte, tenía que enviar el artículo del 9nou por Internet (lo he hacer como máximo el martes de cada semana). Por otro lado, quería encontrar una lavandería pronto, por qué me empieza a escasear todo tipo de ropa y me da pereza lavarla yo mismo.
De todas maneras he disfrutado mucho de estos tres días. El Poloponnese es una tierra muy bonita, salvaje, rocosa y fértil, llena de olivos. Es sorprendente, que con el calor que hacía, la península tuviera algunas montañas en el centro con clapas de nieve. O, no por qué alguna de estas montañas se acerca a los 2500 metros de altura. En cambio, otras partes de la península eran bien planas.
El sábado volví a nadar un poco antes de ducharme y desayunar. Es un lujo. Después empecé a hacer kilómetros dirección al Peleponnese. Según mi mapa de carretera, estaba en proyecto la construcción de un puente que enlazara con Patra, la principal ciudad del Peleponnese, situada en el Oeste. Sin embargo, cuando llegué ya estaba construido y lo estaban amortizando a marchas forzadas. El coste para cruzarlo era de 16,2€ para las autocaravanas.
En Patra encontré un cibercafe, muy lento, lentísimo, pero finalmente pude enviar el diario del viaje y algunos mails. Después fui tirando hacia el sur, con la intención de hacer noche en alguna playa cerca de Olympia. Escogí en el mapa un pueblo que se llamaba Katakolo y que tenía un faro. Pero llegar fue un poco complicado. Las carreteras eran estrechas y sin indicaciones. Entré en un pueblo enfilado en una colina y fui tirando por una pequeña calle. Y cuando me di cuenta de que estaba totalmente equivocado ya era demasiado tarde, echar marcha atrás era bastante complicado y seguí adelante, entre los rosales y las ramas de los árboles que la Hymer iba apartando. Seguí el caminito, montaña arriba, ya fuera del pueblo, con la esperanza de encontrar un espacio donde poder girar. Pero en vez de eso me encontré con el final del camino. Por suerte, al lado había un campo de árboles frutales y una mujer que estaba trabajando. El campo tenía una puerta bastante ancha y le pregunté a la mujer si podría utilizar su campo para dar media vuelta. La mujer me dio permiso un poco incrédula. Y finalmente, después de bastantes maniobras conseguí salir de aquel camino sin salida.
Encontré el pueblo e hice noche allí. El día siguiente, después de nadar otro rato, llegué a Olympia (7278 km). Antiguamente, Olympia era una zona sagrada, llena de templos y monumentos, y por supuesto, con un estadio y grandes edificios para entrenar a los atletas que participaban en las Olimpiadas. Actualmente sólo quedan un montón de piedras, columnas abatidas y algunas pocas de pie. Pero es muy interesante coger mentalmente estas columnas caídas y ponerlas de pie, después poner encima un pesado techo de piedra y madera y acabar imaginándote la magnificencia de la vida y de los edificios de hace casi tres mil años.
Seguí hacia el sur, primero por carreteras trazadas con tiralíneas y después por carreteras trazadas con compás, con un montón de curvas subiendo y descendiendo por los precipicios de la costa. Me detuve en un pequeño y bonito pueblo nombrado Kardamili, y acabé haciendo noche en otra encantadora villa llamada Dirou.
Esta mañana he ido a hacer unas fotos para Dirou. Estaba haciendo una foto de una pequeña iglesia cuando se me ha acercado un hombre que sólo hablaba griego y me ha hecho entender que me invitaba a un café. Aunque no tenía mucha tiempo, siempre estoy abierto a conocer gente del país y he aceptado. Le he seguido por dentro de su casa, hasta un balcón a la sombra de una parra. Mientras me preparaba el café (en un pequeño fogón, calentando agua mezclada con café molido y azúcar) me ha preguntado la edad y me ha indicado que él tenía 65, dibujando números sobre la mesa. Dibujando un 100 le he indicado que él llegaría a esta edad. Me ha preguntado si viajaba solo. Él también vivía sol y parece que nunca había estado casado. Me ha preguntado donde dormía, y en el decirle que en el coche, me ha invitado a dormir a su casa la próxima noche. Le he agradecido pero lo he dicho que no. De todas maneras me ha enseñado la casa, grande y limpia, pero llena de trastos por todos los rincones. Encima la mesa del comedor he visto que tenía algunas revistas pornográficas homosexuales. Lo siento, pero entonces he mirado al hombre diferente. Me ha pedido que me quedara a comer y le nuevamente le he dicho que no. Entonces me ha invitado a ver la televisión. Le he dicho que no tenía ganas pero iba diciendo, "sex, sex". Me he quedado un rato con curiosidad para ver qué tipo de dvd tenía puesto. Era la típica película pornográfica heterosexual. Me decía que estas películas van bien mucho para dormir. Me invitaba a sentarme y a relajarme, pero yo estaba de pie riendo. Finalmente le he agradecido el café y el rato y me he marchado todavía riéndome por las anécdotas de que me suceden.
De Dirou he ido en Githio, un pueblo que parecía interesante. Pero sólo me he parado para nadar un rato y comer. Después he ido hacia Mistras, un pueblo que tiene unas ruinas bizantinas muy interesantes. No las he visitado, porque hubiera estado toda la tarde, pero las he contemplado desde fuera. Murallas, iglesias, piedras, y más piedras, enfilándose montaña arriba, y arriba del todo un castillo.
Donde sí que relajado unas pocas horas ha estado en Nafplio. Mi guía tenía escrito "una de las villas más bonitas de Grecia" y realmente era bonita. Las calles eran estrechas y empedradas. Había muchas plantas que se subían por las paredes con flores de color rojo. De vez en cuando pasaba de largo pequeñas tiendas y restaurantes. En la parte de montaña, subiendo por unas escaleras de piedra pintadas de color blanco, se respiraba todavía más tranquilidad. En el fondo, subido en una colina hay un impresionante castillo, encima la villa otro, y en medio del mar, en una pequeña isla, otro. Me han quedado muchas cosas para contemplar, pero como siempre: "estoy conociendo muy poco de muchas cosas".
Después de cenar me he dirigido por la autopista hacia Atenas. Me ha extrañado que dos peajes estuvieran abiertos, y sólo en un tercero me han cobrado 3,3€. Y otro hecho sorprendente, a lo largo de los 150 kilómetros de autopista, sólo había una sola área de servicio y de descanso, por suerte, allí había un lavabo público a la vista donde he podido vaciar mi lavabo químico.
Ha sido una buena idea entrar en Atenas de noche, porque no me he encontrado nada de tráfico y ha sido bastante sencillo encontrar aparcamiento en el centro.

Atenas (see on map)

24/05/2006:

¡Hace mucho calor, es terrible, pero ya tengo el visado para entrar en Rusia!
Aunque ya he pasado dos días en Atenas, todavía no he tenido tiempo de visitar a fondo la ciudad. Aunque ya me he ido impregnando de la vida tranquila de la ciudad. Sí, la gente parece tomarse la vida con mucha calma. Por ejemplo, tengo la autocaravana aparcada en una calle estrecha, bien aparcada, pero cuando tiene que pasar un camión o furgoneta grande, tienen que ir muy poco a poco o hacer alguna maniobra para no tocarla. Pero nadie se me ha quejado, ni los policías que me han visto salir o entrar en la Hymer. Otro ejemplo. Hoy por la tarde quería visitar la Acrópolis. He llegado sudado bajo este sol abrasador y sorpresa, un cartel en la puerta anunciaba que hoy por la tarde la Acropolis estaría cerrada por que los trabajador tenían una reunión sindical. Tercer ejemplo, después del intento fallido de visitar la Acrópolis y de pasear un rato con otra turista que se había encontrado con la misma situación que yo, he ido a hacer un café frape (bebida nacional). Me he fijado que todas las tiendas estaban cerradas y he preguntado a la camarera por el motivo. Me ha dicho: "porque es el miércoles, los tenderos necesitan descansar". En resumidas cuentas, las tiendas cierran todos los miércoles por la tarde.
No he tenido tiempo de visitar a fondo la ciudad pero he hecho bastante trabajo. Ayer por la mañana fui a la oficina de información turística que indicaba mi guía y se ve que ya no se encontraba allí. Había otra que estaba bastante alejada del centro y después de conectarme un rato a Internet me dirigí allí con bicicleta. Allí fueron realmente amables. Estuvieron buscándome información sobre lavanderías en Atenas y sobre el consulado ruso. Llamaron para preguntar horarios, me imprimieron mapas, me indicaron qué autobuses o metro coger ...
Por la tarde fui a la lavandería y me lavaron los diez kilos de ropa que tenía acumulados. Cuando fui a buscar la ropa, la mujer se me quejó un poco por la gran cantidad de ropa de que había, pero la estuve ayudando a plegar la ropa y me hizo un buen precio.
Tarde por la tarde, justo antes de ponerse el sol me dirigí hacia la Acrópolis con la intención de hacer algunas fotos con la luz del crepúsculo. En la montaña de Filopapou, frente la Acrópolis, conocí a tres americanos que también estaban haciendo fotos. Bajamos juntos y les propuse ir a hacer una cerveza mientras nos explicábamos nuestros viajes. Los tres estaban haciendo un curso de seis semanas de cultura e historia griega, una buena excusa para conocer Grecia.
En el bar donde fuimos a hacer la cerveza (en realidad bebimos vino) nos encontramos con otra americana. Hablando de mi proyecto me comentó que la política exterior de los Estados Unidos era nefasta. Eso hacía que en muchos países la miraran mal por ser americana, aunque que ella (y la mayoría de viajeros americanos) no defendiera la política americana. Entonces le pregunté si a pesar de todo se sentía orgullosa ser americana y me dijo que no.
Esta mañana he ido al consulado ruso. Me ha atendido a una señora muy simpática. Enseguida me ha hecho ver que no tendría ningún problema para tener el visado porque tenía todos los papeles necesarios (básicamente la invitación que me proporcionó la agencia Búlgara). He llenado algunos papeles y pedido de tener el visado hoy mismo, para no arriesgarme a ningún tropiezo. He pagado 150 euros (incluyendo el seguro obligatorio) y me han entregado el visado. Me ha parecido demasiado sencillo después de los problemas que había tenido. Aun así, he pagado un poco más de lo que me hacía pagar la agencia búlgara, no entiendo estos rusos.
Al anochecer, después de pasear con la turista que había encontrado en la Acrópolis, estaba en la Hymer trabajando con el motor puesto en marcha, porque una de las baterías estaba bastante descargada. Y de repente alguien ha picado la puerta con decisión. Me he puesto la camiseta y he abierto la ventana. Había unos cuantos policías que me han preguntado qué hacía allí. Les he comentado que era turista. Entonces me han pedido el pasaporte, y mientras verificaban mis datos con la central, me han comentado que estaba bien aparcado pero que en la zona había bastantes edificios oficiales y simplemente querían asegurarse que no fuera sospechoso. Finalmente se han marchado pidiéndome disculpas.
Por la noche, he quedado con los americanos que conocí ayer. Hoy eran ellos tres y bastantes chicas de su grupo. Hemos ido a tomar unas copas y después a bailar. En el grupo había un americano de origen griego. Estaba muy orgulloso de sus orígenes griegos, de su religión greco-ortodoxa, de la comida, las bebidas ... También he hablado con otros del grupo que me han explicado que Estados Unidos tiene dos zonas bien diferenciadas culturalmente: las costas con gente muy abierta y el interior con gente mucho más tradicional.

25/05/2006:

Aunque fui a dormir un poco tarde, me he levantado relativamente temprano porque esta mañana quería acabar de traducir el diario a inglés, seleccionar imágenes para el diario y enviarlo finalmente. Estaba trabajando desnudo, porque con este calor es inevitable. Por otro lado, ya me he acostumbrado a la idea de estar en pelotas en medio de la calle, aunque esté dentro de un pequeño habitáculo. Pues bien, estaba trabajando y han vuelto a picar con contundencia la Hymer. Me he puesto una camiseta y unos pantalones y he abierto la ventana. Había un policía que me ha dicho que tenía que sacar la autocaravana de allí. Le he explicado que ayer otros policías me comentaron que estaba bien aparcada. Pero él me ha señalado un autobús que había parado detrás de la autocaravana y me ha comentado que si no la sacaba podía pasar. A diferencia de los otros días, en el otro lado de la calle había aparcado un coche en vez de motos. Unos metros delante de la Hymer había un camión grulla, por lo que se ve habían intentado llevarse la autocaravana, pero tal como estaba aparcada era imposible. En resumidas cuentas, he sacado la autocaravana del centro y me he puesto entre el terrible tráfico de Atenas a buscar un nuevo aparcamiento, que no he encontrado hasta al cabo de un buen rato en una zona residencial.
Por la tarde, después de hacer todo el trabajo que tenía pendiente, he ido hacia la Acrópolis. Pensaba que tendría dos horas para visitarla pero he llegado un poco tarde y allí me han informado de que cerraban media hora antes de lo que me pensaba. Por otro lado el precio de 12€ que ya conocía, también incluía la visita a otros monumentos. Así pues, al final he decidido visitar otra área y dejar la Acropolis para mañana por la mañana.
He visitado la zona del Agora, con más ruinas y algún templo en pie. En cierta modo no deja de ser una proeza construir un edificio que aguante tantos años de pie. Medio en equilibrio, porque a veces las piedras que forman las columnas están desplazadas de la vertical. ¿Quizás un terremoto las desplazó? ¿Quizás el mismo terremoto destruyó otros templos?
A la noche he vuelto a quedar con los Americanos. Hemos ido hacia el centro a buscar algún club que estuviera bien. Nos hemos metido por alguna calle estrecha y poco alumbrada que ha asustado a los americanos pero finalmente hemos llegado a un club muy acogedor donde hemos pasado toda la noche. He estado conversando y bailando bastante rato con una chica muy simpática, Anna. Me ha invitado a pasarla a ver cuándo viaje por América.

Meteora (see on map)

26/05/2006:

He ido a visitar la Acrópolis a la peor hora, de doce en una del mediodía. El calor era terrible, la luz para las fotografías era demasiada fuerte con las sombras verticales y estaba pleno de turistas (eso último quizás a todas horas). De todas maneras, no he dormido mis ocho horas. Ayer fui a dormir bastante tarde.

¿Os tengo que decir que el Parthenon me ha sorprendido por su grandiosidad? No, no os lo diré. Este sentimiento lo tuve hace unos quince años, la anterior vez que visité Grecia. Lo que me ha sorprendido es que estén intentando reconstruir el Parthenon aprovechando antiguas columnas y nuevos fragmentos de piedra. También me ha sorprendido una tonteria, las piedras por donde los turistas deambulan y los antiguos visitantes deberían deambular están bien lisas y si no vigilas puedes resbalar y caerte de culo. Con el paso del tiempo, los zapatos de la gente actúan como el agua del río o del mar, modelando las duras piedras.

Un templo que sí que me ha sorprendido por su grandiosidad es el de Olympian Zeus que he visitado después. Sólo se aguantan unas pocas columnas de pie, pero si observas su altura y miras toda la explanada que ocupaba el edificio te puedes hacer una buena idea de como pequeños se deberían de sentir los Atenenses cuando entraban allí.

He comido un poco y he empezado a hacer camino hacia Meteora donde he llegado por la tarde, al atardecer. También había estado en Meteora hacía quince años. Había estado unos cuantos días y me había enamorado. Al volver a visitar estas mágicas montañas he vuelto a recuperar este fantástico sentimiento de paz y admiración.

Meteora son unas montañas que recuerdan a Montserrat. Grandes bloques de piedra redondeados que se alzan en medio de la nada o en la pendiente de la montaña. Arriba de algunas de estas piedras o montañas hay unos monasterios construidos a finales del siglo catorce. Algunos de éstos monasterios tienen precipicio a cuatro vientos y sólo se puede acceder a ellos a través de un puente o de una cabina suspendida en un cable. Lo que no me explico es como empezaron a construirlos. En aquella época no había el material ni la técnica de escalada que utilizan los escaladores que trepan hoy en día por las mismas rocas.

He dormido en una pequeña explanada en medio de las montañas. Ha sido la primera vez que he acampado en un lugar completamente aislado y antes de dormirme he repasado mentalmente todos los sistemas de seguridad que tenía y acciones a emprender si algún bandido intentaba forzar la puerta y entrar en la autocaravana.

Macedonia

Thessaloniki (see on map)

28/05/2006:

Ayer por la mañana estuve andando un par de horas por las montañas de Meteora, dejándome perder por senderos que bajaban la montaña y la subían por otras caras. Repito, lo mismo que antes de ayer, las montañas de Meteora son mágicas. La vegetación es salvaje pero crece en cualquier lugar que encuentre un poco de tierra. Algunas de estas inmensas rocas de piedra tienen cuevas y en el interior de algunas de éstas hay restos de antiguos monasterios que las ocupaban.

Me hubiera gustado tomarme uno o dos días para recorrer todos los caminos de estas montañas, pero como siempre, he escogido un tipo de viaje que me permite visitar muchos lugares pero con poco tiempo para descubrirlos. De todas modos, es la única manera de viajar si quieres conocer un poco de todas partes, de todo el mundo, y aun así estaré 4 o 5 años a completarlo.

Descendí las montañas con la Hymer lentamente, admirando por última vez este impresionante paisaje. Después comí y empecé a hacer camino hacia Tessaloniki, a unos trescientos Kilómetros.

Al principio las carreteras eran buenas, después cogí una autopista sin peajes, pero a medio camino la autopista se acababa y no seguía hasta al cabo de unos cincuenta kilómetros, entre los cuales tuve que circular por una pequeña carretera tortuosa llena de camiones que se subían lentamente hacia un puerto de montaña.

En cualquier caso, llegué con tiempo a Tessaloniki para arreglar y limpiar un poco a la autocaravana y salir a encontrarme con Kiriaki, una chica que me respondió a través de Internet. Es curioso, pero en Athens nadie de Internet se mostró interesado o pudo encontrarme.

Kiriaki se presentó con un amigo, Dimitris. Kiriaki es una chica que acaba de abrir una tienda de moda femenina y Dimitris está estudiando física. Fuimos a comer un poco y después nos dirigimos hacia una fiesta que había en casa de unos amigos suyos. Dimitris fue con su moto y yo y Kiriaki cogimos un taxi.

Supongo que es inevitable, pero lo primero en lo que me fijé cuando conocí Kiriaki es la profunda quemadura que tiene en la parte superior del brazo y hombro derecho. Pero me gustó que no tuviera ninguno complejo y fuera con una camisa de tirantes. Hoy le he preguntado qué le pasó y me ha explicado que se quemó con agua hirviente cuándo tenía seis años. De todos modos, enseguida la sensualidad de su sonrisa, de los movimientos y de su cuerpo te atrapan y acabas creyendo que la quemadura no es más que un bonito tatuaje dibujado a la piel.

La fiesta en casa de la Nastra fue fantástica, muy tranquila. Estuve conversando muy agradablemente y profundamente con muchos de los amigos que había allí. Conversé bastante rato con Paris, un interesante chico que está acabando el guión de una película en proyecto de filmar. La película trata sobre un chico que viaja en tren por muchos países. Paris estaba muy interesado a que participara de alguna manera u otra en su filme. Quizás las experiencias que le vaya enviando de mi viaje será una manera indirecto de participar.

Ayer por la noche volví a coger un poco el pulso al mundo sin filmar. Les comenté algunas inquietudes que me había planteado Lily de Skopje, Macedonia. Ella me había comentado que a los griegos no les gustaba que su país se llamara Macedonia y así me lo confirmaron ayer en la fiesta. Me comentaron que para ellos, Macedonia es una región de Grecia. Si había un país que se llamaba Macedonia, este país podría tener aspiraciones sobre el territorio griego. En resumidas cuentas, otro problema de nacionalidades y territorio, un problema que me estoy encontrando a casi todas partes. Entonces no sé porque los catalanes y los españoles nos tomamos tan seriamente los sentimientos nacionalistas. Es un problema que se repite en todo el mundo. Quizás es hora que aprendamos a convivir sin pensar si antes nuestro país era así o asá, o nos han robado una parte del territorio, o estamos discriminados, o estamos ocupados, o se quieren independizar ...

Otro hecho curioso que me hicieron notar los griegos: Es bastante conocido que Grecia escrito en griego se lee "Elas", ellos mismos se llaman república helénica, incluso detestan el nombre de Grecia pero poco pueden hacer para que el resto del mundo cambie la mentalidad y les nombren helénicos. Grecia había estado ocupada durante mucho tiempo por los turcos o imperio Otomano y en aquel tiempo les dieron el nombre de griegos que en turco significa esclavo. Por lo tanto, Grecia significa tierra de esclavos. He ahí el motivo porque detestan el nombre.

Hoy he estado casi todo el día con Kiriaki, una chica muy interesante, agradable e inteligente. Hemos estado paseando por Tessaloniki, una ciudad sin muchos puntos de interés pero agradable. Hemos estado paseando por el paseo marítimo, hasta la torre blanca, uno de los puntos de interés. Después hemos andado por algunos de las anchas calles restringidas al tráfico. Y he acabado en un restaurante típico griego donde hemos pedido diversos platos deliciosos: una ensalada, puré frío de lentejas verdes, unas patas de pulpo en la parrilla (excelentes) y unos mejillones en una sopa de queso (idem).

Por la tarde hemos seguido conversando y profundizando en los temas de ayer y en nuevos temas, sobre la felicidad, sobre los viajes, sobre los proyectos, su negocio, sus sueños ...

29/05/2006:
Ayer a la noche la Kiriaki me dejó conectar a Internet con su adsl y esta mañana he vuelto a hacer lo mismo después de escribir el diario y el artículo para el nou9. Poco antes de marcharme, Kiriaki se ha presentado con una gran caja con un típico dulce de Tessaloniki nombrado Tsoureki, y me lo ha regalado. A la noche he empezado a comerlo y estaba muy bueno. Me tendréis que disculpar que no sepa describirlo bien, pero es una masa de pan dulce cubierta de una crema blanca.

Después he entrevistado a Kiriaki tomando el pulso al mundo. Según ella el principal problema del mundo es que la gente ha olvidado que lo que nos diferencia de los animales es que nosotros podemos comunicar con lógica nuestros pensamientos. La solución se encontraría en la frase del Gandhi: "sé el cambio que quieras para los otros" y también aceptar que el mundo pertenece a todo el mundo. El principal problema de Grecia es que la gente critica el país pero no actúa para mejorarlo. La solución estaría en la educación. Kiriaki se considera feliz, simplemente porque era el lunes. No consideraba importante pensar si sería más feliz. El secreto es disfrutar el momento, contentarse con lo que tienes, y fijarse con las cosas buenas de la vida.

Finalmente, hacía el mediodía me he despedido de Kiriaki con un fuerte abrazo y deseándole que el negocio que está iniciando sea todo un éxito.

He vuelto a las buenas carreteras y autopistas griegas, circulando hacia el este en dirección a Estambul. Tenía más de 600 kilómetros por delante y he acelerado un poco más el motor. Simplemente he aumentado la media de 80 a 90 Km/H a 90 o 100.

Al cabo de una hora de conducción he parado en una playa que estaba ocupada por una pequeña población. He nadado un poco y he comido. Durante todo el camino hasta la frontera he ido observando los kilómetros y kilómetros de playas y costa que estaban sin urbanizar. Un paisaje muy bonito, pero no creo que aguante demasiados años así.

Durante este trayecto he seguido observando de vez en cuando, algún coche que circulaba sin matrícula. Ya me había fijado antes de llegar a Tessaloniki y pregunté la causa a los amigos de allí. Entonces me explicaron que los ayuntamientos tienen potestad de retirarte la matricula del coche si aparcas muy mal: en un paso cebra, en un espacio para minusválido, en una esquina ... Te retiran la matrícula durante cuarenta días y no te la devuelven hasta que han transcurrido o has pagado el triple de la multa. De todas maneras, se ve que a algunos conductores no les importa seguir conduciendo aunque sea sin matrícula.

He llegado a la frontera con Turquía. He cruzado la frontera griega sin ningún problema. Después he cruzado un puente donde había militares de las dos nacionalidades separados por una línea pintada en el suelo. Y he acabado llegando a las oficinas turcas, donde he tenido que comprar el visado de 10€. Pero en el momento de comprobar los papeles del coche he vuelto a tener el mismo problema que en algunas otras fronteras: el nombre del propietario del coche no coincide con mío.

Les he mostrado todos los documentos (escritos en español) que prueban que la empresa del coche me deja el vehículo. Me han hecho ir con el director y él me ha dicho que no entendía el español y que si quería pasar con el vehículo tenía que ir a pie (o en autobús) a un pueblo a 6 kilómetros dentro de Turquía y pedir a alguien que me tradujera el documento a Turco (no a inglés). Le he comentado que tenía la opción de recibir un fax de la compañía en inglés confirmando la cesión de la Hymer. Pero me ha reiterado que su solución era la única viable. Me he marchado de la oficina bien enfadado indicándole que aquello no era nada positivo para el turismo y él asintiendo. Quizás si le hubiera ofrecido alguna propina hubiera pasado sin problemas, pero no he sabido como operar.

He aparcado la Hymer en un aparcamiento antes de las oficinas y he decidido pasar la noche allí e intentar cruzar la frontera al día siguiente por la mañana con otros policías. También, he estado removiendo entre todos mis papeles por si encontraba algún otro documento y he encontrado el seguro original del vehículo donde hay escrito mi nombre como conductor habitual.

Y por si acaso, he llamado a España y he hablado con Autosuministros, la empresa de la Hymer, y hemos acordado que me prepararían un documento en inglés por si acaso al día siguiente lo necesito.

Turkey

Istanbul (see on map)

30/05/2006:
Me he despertado y me he dirigido otra vez hacia el control de pasaportes. Me temía que podía tener problemas por tener el visado de ayer y efectivamente, el policía me ha dicho que tenía que obtener otro visado. Pero después de la larga cola de los visados, el hombre de allí me ha comentado que el visado de ayer era válido por tres meses. He vuelto al primer policía y me ha hecho ver que el sello que me habían estampado ayer tenía la fecha del año 2004 y por lo tanto necesitaba otro visado. He vuelto otra vez al otro edificio y el hombre, después de hablar por teléfono con el primero me ha hecho comprar otro visado. Pero cuando he llegado otra vez al policía me ha dicho que le tendría que pagar 5ˆ. Yo le he dicho que no, porque ayer no tuve que pagar nada para pasar este control. Pero él, tozudo, me ha dicho que no era ayer, que el sello lo tenía de hacía dos años. Yo también, tozudo, le he dicho que no tenía que pagar nada. Entonces me ha dicho que yo no viajaba como turista y que tendría que pagar 25ˆ. Yo he insistido que sí y finalmente he pedido hablar con su superior. Y de repente se ha arreglado y me ha puesto el sello necesario.

En el segundo control, temiendo el problema de la documentación del coche, he puesto un billete de 10ˆ entre los papeles, pero cuando se ha caído sobre la mesa del policía, me ha pedido que lo recogiera. Ha mirado con atención el documento del seguro que encontré ayer, donde aparezco como conductor, y se ha convencido de que todo estaba correcto. En el tercer control ni me han mirado la autocaravana y he entrado por fin a Turkia.

Las carreteras de Turkia por las cuales he circulado estaban en muy buen estado, de dos carriles por sentido, excepto en algunos tramos que los estaban arreglando. El paisaje seguía siendo igual que el de Grecia. Montañas peladas, llenas de arbustos y algunos árboles de vez en cuando. A la derecha tenía el mar, con la mayoría de las playas olvidadas y algún pueblo de vez en cuando.

He parado en un pueblo al lado del mar para nadar un poco y tal como me temía, el agua estaba bastante sucia, o así me lo ha parecido. Esta zona de Turquía está entre dos estrechos entre el Mediterráneo y el Mar Negro, circulan muchos barcos y el agua debe estar bastante estancada. Aun así he nadado un poco y en algunas zonas el agua estaba helada. Bueno, quizás el agua no estaba tan estancada como pensaba.

He llegado a la gran Estambul, una ciudad de 12 millones de habitantes. Por sí sola es mucho más habitada que muchos países Europeos. Ya me lo esperaba pero aun así, Estambul me ha sorprendido por su modernidad y riqueza. Grandes Edificios, grandes avenidas, coches nuevos y la gente vistiendo exactamente como el resto de Europa. Preguntando he conseguido llegar al centro. Bueno, una ciudad de 12 millones de habitantes no puede tener un solo centro, pero he llegado al punto donde había quedado para encontrarme con Sinem, una chica que había contactado a través de Internet. Cuando he llegado a la Plaza de Taksim me he dado cuenta que aparte de las grandes avenidas, el resto de la zona eran pequeñas callejuelas por donde no podía entrar la Hymer. He dado algunas vueltas y he encontrado un agujero en uno de los pocos lugares donde se podía aparcar de las avenidas. Ha venido un hombre y me ha dicho que le tenía que pagar por el aparcamiento. Hemos estado negociando el precio y le he pagado unos 10ˆ. Después me he dado cuenta de que le he dado demasiado pero mañana ya me discutiré con él.

Me he encontrado con Sinem y una amiga suya y hemos ido a pasear por un paseo que salía de la plaza Taksim. Un paseo similar al Portal del Angel de Barcelona, lleno de centros comerciales y gente, pero mucho más largo. La amiga de Sinem se quería comprar una falda y mientras tanto he intentado mantener una conversación fluida con Sinem, que le costaba bastante expresarse en Inglés.

La Sinem es una chica sencilla y amigable. Trabaja de ingeniera, aunque no he sabido entender en qué especialidad. Se considera musulmana, a pesar de todo hemos ido a beber una cerveza. Entonces le he comentado que en España, los pocos musulmanes que hay no beben alcohol. Ella me ha comentado que hay gente que opinará que ella no actúa como musulmana, pero ella se siente así. Me ha explicado que en el este de Turkia la gente es mucho más tradicional que en el oeste y en Istambul. Me ha comentado que Estambul está dividido en tres partes, por tres mares o canales, aun así la gente se mueve de una parte a la otra sin problemas. Por ejemplo, nos encontrábamos en la parte Europea de Estambul pero ella vivía en la parte Asiática.

31/05/2006:

Esta mañana he cogido la bicicleta y me he dirigido hacia el llamado viejo Estambul. Ha sido un paseo muy interesante. Cómo ya va siendo costumbre en Estambul me ha vuelto a sorprender el aire de modernidad del barrio antiguo, aunque la vida seguía siendo tradicional en muchos aspectos: Pescadores sobre el puente de Ataturk, vendedores ambulantes, los bazars, los cantos de las mezquitas ...

Mientras estaba visitando la Mezquita azul, un maravilloso edificio construido hace 400 años, he conocido a un chico muy interesante de Azerbajdzan. Farid trabajaba en el departamento presidencial de Azerbajdzan y se encontraba en transito en Estambul dirigiéndose hacia Rumania, donde tenía que organizar una visita que su presidente tenía que hacer allí. Farid sólo tenía cuatro horas para visitar Estambul pero fue muy amable conversando conmigo un buen rato.

Me explicó que Azerbajdzan tiene muchos problemas con Armenia porque según ellos Armenia posee parte de su territorio. Me comentó que si no se arreglan las cosas próximamente podía volver a estallar el conflicto. Después hablamos de religión. Me explicó que después de visitar la Meca se sintió reclamado por Dios y ahora seguía más estrictamente los dictados del Corán. Le comenté que estaba leyendo el Corán por qué me gustaba conocer sobre religiones y le expresé las impresiones que había tenido. El inicio del Corán es muy radical y si lo lees a rajatabla invita directamente a la guerra santa. Pero el Farid me explicó que el Corán necesita de un maestro que te explique el contexto de cada capítulo. Me comentó que el capítulo que yo mencionaba fue inspirado a Mahoma en una época de gran conflicto con Judíos y Cristianos.

Entre medio de la conversación, tomé el pulso al mundo con él. Farid opinaba que el principal problema del mundo es que la gente se mata entre ella, es decir, las guerras. Si la gente fuera más bondadosa y amable entre ella se solucionaría el problema. La religión podría ayudar a que hubiera bondad. La solución individual sería empezar ser bondadoso con la familia. En Azerbajdzan tienen un problema político con Armenia que puede desembocar en guerra. Según Azerbajdzan, Armenia tiene ocupado parte de su territorio. Farid se considera feliz porque vive, sonríe, viaja ... Es más feliz cuando a su alrededor la gente también sonríe. El secreto de la felicidad es personal y difícil de explicar.

Después fui a pasear entre las pequeñas tiendas del inmenso bazar de kapali Carsi, ocupando un pulcro edificio pintado de tonalidades azules. Allí presencié una curiosa subasta de dinero (dolars, euros ...) con mucha gente llamando y hablando con tres o cuatro teléfonos al mismo tiempo. Después tropecé con una celebración radical de la independencia de Estambul (o algo similar) con música, banderas y consignas.

Cuando he llegado a la Hymer, hacia las cinco, el amo del bar que tenía al lado de la autocaravana me ha comentado que el vehículo era demasiado grande y le molestaba. Le he intentado hacer entender que a media noche me marcharía porque me sería más fácil encontrar aparcamiento. Entonces ha aparecido el cobrador de ayer y me ha dicho que le tenía que volver a pagar el mismo precio pactado ayer, pero yo le he dicho que como me marcharía a media noche y él no tenía potestad para cobrarme no le pensaba pagar. Entonces me ha dicho que si no le pagaba me rompería la bicicleta. Y yo que le rompería la cabeza. Entonces ha venido un traductor que ha puesto paz. Finalmente hemos acordado un precio de 3ˆ hasta media noche. Pero el hombre del bar, mientras tanto había avisado a la policía y me he tenido que marchar. Las chicas de ayer ya me habían explicado que había una mafia de aparcamientos a Estambul, puedes aparcar en zonas prohibidas si pagas a la mafia que al mismo tiempo debe de pagar a la policía.

He dado unas vueltas más por el moderno Estambul y he encontrado un aparcamiento de pago donde hemos estado negociando un buen rato el precio y finalmente me he quedado.

Por la noche me he encontrado con Esra (que también había contactado por Internet) y una amiga suya. Les he explicado el problema del aparcamiento y me han propuesto aparcar la Hymer en un aparcamiento gratuito de la ciudad con vistas en el mar. Nos hemos dirigido allí y realmente el lugar estaba muy bien, pero a unos 10 kilómetros del centro y a unos 200 metros sobre el nivel del mar. He dejado la autocaravana allí y hemos ido con el coche de Esra a beber una cervezas en una terraza cerca del mar.

Esra y Ceilán son dos primas muy agradables, ambiciosas y bien situadas en el mundo laboral. Primero se han interesado por mi país, después me han explicado que Turkia está dividida en dos partes bien diferenciadas. El Oeste, es moderno, próspero y muy similar al resto de Europa. En cambio, el Este es tradicional, arraigado al pasado y muy similar a Irán y al resto de países del medio oriente. Me comentaban que es injusto que a causa del Oeste estén teniendo tantos problemas para entrar a la Comunidad Europea.

Después tomé el pulso al mundo con ellas. Las dos consideraban que el principal problema del mundo era la falta de trabajo y de oportunidades en muchos países, hecho que provoca hambre, no acceso a la sanidad ... La falta de trabajo se podría solucionar políticamente, pero también con educación. Aparte, Ceilán opinaba que otro problema global es que el mundo rico no ayuda suficientemente al pobre. El principal problema en Turquía es que falta mucha educación, sobre todo en el este de Turquía y con la gente que viene de allí. La solución sería política, destinando más dinero, pero personalmente también participando como voluntario en organizaciones. Ersa se considera feliz por que las ambiciones que tenía se han cumplido y porque tiene nuevas ambiciones que espera que se cumplan, de todas maneras sería más feliz con un chico o marido. Ceilán no se considera feliz porque está muy aburrida de la rutina laboral de cada día, aunque tiene un buen trabajo. Sería feliz si no necesitara ganar dinero, de todas maneras, con el tiempo libre intenta hacer cosas que la hagan feliz. El secreto de la felicidad es mirar las cosas por el lado positivo y estar satisfecho de la propia vida.

Cuando nos despedimos delante de la Hymer decidí volver a moverla y volver a intentar aparcar más hacia el centro. Hice los 10 kilómetros por dentro de la ciudad, bordeando el mar, diferentes discotecas de lujo, rascacielos ... Finalmente aparqué en una callejuela de la ciudad antigua donde había otros coches aparcados.

01/06/2006:

Esta mañana, mientras estaba escribiendo el diario, han picado diversas veces la autocaravana. He abierto la ventana y había el hombre de una agencia del lado muy enfadado que me ha dicho que me tenía que marchar en seguida. Le he propuesto mover la Hymer un poco más hacia atrás, para que no molestara su negocio, pero me ha dicho que no, que me tenía que marchar. No le he hecho caso y he seguido trabajando. Entonces ha vuelto a venir todavía más enfadado diciendo la calle era suya y que avisaría a la policía. No he entendido porque decía que era suya y he encontrado correcto que avisara a la policía. Pero finalmente ha venido un hombre terriblemente simpático que me ha explicado en un inglés perfecto que la agencia del lado era de alquiler de coches y que pagaban al ayuntamiento por el derecho de aparcar en todo el trozo de calle, aunque no hubiera ninguna señal que lo indicara.

He arrancado de nuevo con la intención de volver al aparcamiento de pago del día anterior. Pero a medio camino he preguntado el precio en otro aparcamiento de pago y lo he encontrado muy económico y he aparcado allí a la sombra de un árbol.

Antes de entrar en el aparcamiento se me ha cruzado un ciclista cargado de mochilas que ha exclamado "España!! en una pronunciación perfecto. Quizás era español, o no. En cualquier caso, ya hace tiempo que me doy cuenta de que mi viaje no tiene nada de especial, que hay mucha otro gente que viaja, con condiciones mucho más complicadas, y de seguro con muchas experiencias mucho más interesantes de explicar que las mías.

He estado trabajando hasta tarde, hasta las seis de la tarde, básicamente traduciendo el diario al inglés. Después me he ido a conectar a Internet para enviarlo. Y finalmente me he relajado tirando fotos en la mezquita azul al anochecer. Mientras estaba enfocando un minarete al lado de la luna se me ha acercado un hombre y me ha empezado a explicar la historia de la mezquita. La mezquita tiene seis minaretes, toda una provocación de los Otomanos hacia los árabes, ya que hasta entonces sólo la mezquita de la Meca tenía seis minaretes. En cualquier caso, los construyeron, aunque no alzaron uno séptimo que también estaba en el proyecto.

Me quise despedir del hombre entregándole unas pocas monedas pero me las rechazó y siguió hablando y hablando. Y como era interesante me quedé. Entonces le propuse hacerle una entrevista para tomar el pulso en el mundo con él. No tenía la camera de filmar pero tomé nota.

El hombre opinaba que el principal problema del mundo era la falta de trabajo. Este problema en Turquía se solucionaría entrando en la Unión Europea. Creía que el radicalismo y el fundamentalismo era el principal problema de Turquía y quizás del mundo islámico. Se preocupaba de que los sunitas y los chiítas estuvieran enfrentados, que tuvieran diferentes mezquitas para rogar, diferentes "cafe houses" donde relajarse ... Entonces le comenté que según el Corán (que estoy leyendo) el Islam era una religión unida, a diferencia del cristianismo. Su respuesta me sorprendió ya que me respondió que el Corán estaba escrito por un hombre (en vez de ser inspirada por Dios) y que también se podía equivocar. Él no se consideraba feliz, aunque cuando tenía oportunidad de explicar su conocimiento a los turistas para a cambio poder ayudar a su familia se sentía realizado. De todas maneras, sería más feliz si no hubiera guerras y el mundo fuera más limpio. Por ejemplo, él, en vez de tirar las colillas de los cigarros a la calle se las guardaba o las dejaba escondidas en una esquina. Para finalizar, me explicó que todo el mundo tiene el secreto de la felicidad escondido a su corazón, si cuidamos nuestro corazón descubriremos este secreto.

02/06/2006:

Había enviado bastantes mails a gente (chicas) de Estambul a través del portal couchsurfing.com. Los había enviado desde Atenas, una ciudad donde no me había podido encontrar con nadie de Internet. Así pues, esta mañana tenía una otro cita, con la Eylem, y su amiga Duygu, que se ha presentado más tarde.

Eylem es una chica alocada, risueña, dulce, feliz y llena de amor. Es como el día. Luce unos cuantos tatuajes y piercings y tiene un pasado un poco marcado por las drogas. Ahora sólo fuma marihuana y come setas de vez en cuando, para encontrarse a sí misma. Ella misma se define como una gata hada o como un ángel con alas de plástico.

La Duygu es una chica mucho más tranquila, necesitada de amor, romántica, receptiva, responsable pero también soñadora. Es como la noche. No utiliza las setas u otras drogas pero está conectada con la madre naturaleza. Le cuesta más expresarse con inglés, aunque tiene una gran voluntad para comunicarse y expresar sus ideas. De todos modos, los silencios con ella no resultan nada incómodos.

La Eylem se presentó con una recipiente con comida típica turca preparado por ella y su tía. No sé si leyó en el diario que últimamente todo el mundo me regala comida típica del país, es un detalle muy bonito. Eran unas croquetas de arroz con aroma de limón envueltas en una hoja verde oscuro y un postre muy meloso y con algunos frutos secos.

Hemos ido al llamado Sultanahmet (o barrio antiguo) donde hemos comprado unas cervezas y nos las hemos bebido estirados en el césped a la sombra de árbol. Antes sin embargo, la Eylem y la Duygu han invocado los espíritus de la naturaleza para que bendijeran las bebidas. Después de conversar sobre hadas, sueños, coincidencias, les he propuesto de entrevistarlas para tomar el pulso en el mundo.

Según Eylem, el principal problema del mundo es que la gente no se ama y no se respeta. Si la gente tuviera amor dentro de sí harían cosas mejores y se acabarían muchos de los problemas del mundo. Personalmente ellas intentan respetar a todo el mundo y amar lo máximo posible. El principal problema de Turquía es la Educación, que no es accesible para todo el mundo, aparte de que la universidad pública no es del todo buena. La solución estaría en tener más universidades y voluntarios. Eylem es feliz simplemente porque vive, aunque a veces haya problemas. Tenemos que ser felices de las pequeñas cosas y agradecer lo que tenemos, por lo tanto no quiere esperar ser más feliz consiguiendo algo.

Duygu creía que el principal problema del mundo es el dinero y las guerras provocadas por éste y el poder. Pensando en los otros se solucionaría parte del problema. Personalmente ella puede intentar explicar a su alrededor que tenemos que intentar amar más y ser menos egoístas. También consideraba que el principal de Turquía era la Educación, y la falta de educación entre mujeres en el Este de Turquía. Explicaba que su abuelo no entendía que ella como mujer estudiara, ya que cuando se casara no lo necesitaría. Ella intenta explicar que eso es un problema. Duygu se considera feliz porque vive y porque ama la naturaleza y la gente. Ella y Eylem son felices cuando abrazan a la gente, pero los otros no lo entienden. Duygu sería más feliz ayudando al mundo y también conociendo a más gente interesante. El secreto de la felicidad es el amor, si hay amor hay felicitad. Les comenté que la gente cuando se enamora a veces se sienten infelices, me respondieron que si el amor fuera incondicional nadie se sentiría infeliz.

Por la noche hemos movido otra vez la Hymer hacia Taksim. Esta vez hemos aparcado en otro lugar, también de pago.

Hemos bebido otras cervezas en unas escaleras, mientras Eylem y Duygu se hacían pasar por turistas con los chicos que las abordaban. Después hemos ido a bailar y beber más en un par de discotecas o clubes que se encontraban en el ático de un par de edificios. Uno de ellos estaba en el aire libre y me ha sorprendido escuchar entre la música tecno el llamamiento a la plegaria desde los altavoces de una mezquita del lado. Nadie se ha inmutado y todo el mundo ha seguido bailando.

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Documento sin título

Descargaros gratuitamente mi nuevo libro "Cómo vivir feliz sin libre albedrío" desde mi página web librealbedrio.info o visualizad este entretenido video de introducción: youtu.be/qZHnjjiivs0.