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‹ Previous (10/08/2010) MONTH Next (2010-10-09)› ‹ Previous (2010-10-08 - Canada) COUNTRY Next (2011-01-23 - Mexico)› US Cuyahoga Falls, OH (see on map) 09/09/2010:
Our next destination was Cuyahoga Falls, near Cleveland, where there was a friend of ours. We had a choice to get going under Lake Michigan and Chicago or travelling across northern Lake Michigan and Lake Superior. Despite being a longer route, I managed to convince Alexandra to choose the second option, to visit some parks and around big cities in the U.S. which had left us quite indifferent. Nevertheless, on Sunday afternoon we had to cross the great city of Minneapolis before starting off small roads near Lake Superior. In those small roads again we found the large motor homes, big as a bus, usually dragging a small car or SUV behind . In the United States they can drive them with a normal car license. Although we had seen many in the West Coast, we are still surprised these large and expensive houses that are used by retired couples, from one side to another of the United States. On Monday morning we just get to the natural park of the Apostles Islands, where I made a nice walk through the woods near the shore of the lake to a vertical cave in the rock created by the waves of the lake. I was lucky it did not rain, because little later it started to rain and it continued all day Tuesday. We are not too used to rain during our trip, so we had to rule out visits to some abandoned copper mines, and one day we decided to lock ourselves into a library and then a McDonalds every hour connected to the Internet. However, on Wednesday we had a bit more luck and we did a short walk through the Natural Park of Pictured Rocks. We visited a small waterfall in a river of brown or red tint and white frothy attribute to pollution, but then we read it was due to the large amount of metals in the water. After a beach walk near some large cliffs carved by the force of water, which was especially virulent this morning. Unfortunately, the rain returned to wreck our plans and we had to return to the road much sooner than we thought. This allowed us to visit the morning of Thursday the stunning natural park dunes of sleeping bear (Sleeping Bear Dunes NP), and then drive nine hours to arrive completely exhausted in Cuyahoga Falls, where we were expect by our friends, Amanda and Mark.
We really relaxed at the house Amanda and Mark, maybe too much, because we became almost lethargic, as if life had not passed during these two weeks. We needed a vacation (especially Alexandra) and to stop a few days doing nothing much, just as we did it sometime before. But our motives are not always understood and was not the first time someone asked me intrigued by email: ´How can you make the holiday vacation?´, ´How come you are travelling stressed?´. First, the traveller does not travel for vacation, at least not in my case. My desire is to discover and communicate through photography and text to keep myself busy most of the day, in addition to countless hours of driving. For months, I have no time to read a book, something quite usual during the holidays, as the minimum that I have some hours stopped the attempt to take advantage of writing the book of Africa. So I would not say that travel stress, but I try to do it with such passion that occasionally ends up consuming the energies and must rest for a few hours, and sometimes a few days to recover to continue with the same enthusiasm as at first. Anyway, despite being a large part of the hours of the day doing nothing (basically looking series in the case of Alexandra and playing games over the Internet in my case), also we had the opportunity to have interesting conversations with Amanda, Mark and other friends of theirs. It was strange to go with Amanda to a big party to raise funds for an organization offering free legal advice to people in need. Amanda was invited to work for another organization that provides assistance and protection to victims of domestic violence or gender, and we were also invited. The dinner was great, sharing room with great personalities of the society of Cleveland, including the new Supreme Court Judge Sonia Sotomayor, who made a speech applauded by over 1000 people attending, who had generally paid $ 150 per place . I was surprised by the large amount of resources that move the organization that organized the event, especially considering that only acted in the county of Cleveland. But then I thought that the size of the organization was equivalent to the problem, because as Amanda explained, Cleveland is the worst U.S. city to live (according to Forbes magazine), after analyzing quality of life, work, social welfare, poverty , corruption, education, violence, ... Thus, Cleveland was called ´the Mistake by the Lake´ (the mistake by the lake). Amanda´s organization also worked exclusively in the Cleveland spot, working with hundreds of clients each year, of which she only attended Latinas. Given the large number of illegals in the U.S., Amanda explained an interesting initiative of the American government which in turn to denounce the perpetrators, victims without papers were nationalized. We also went to dinner several times with friends of Amanda and Mark, knowing one of these times a man I found fascinating. As I was interested in his personal history, I will describe Miguel as a middle-class man with origins in El Salvador, that confessed that he had participated in the civil war in his country, struggling with the Frente Farabundo Marti para la Liberacion Nacional (FMLN .) Miguel told me some of the cruelties of the dictatorial government of Salvador during the ´80s, as the death squads, which, he says, justified their struggle as a terrorist group. Without telling me, I felt that Michael was involved in the deaths of many political and military leaders because of his social class and easily with important people. Anyway, eventually he was discovered and had to flee the country to avoid the government to capture or kill the FMLN, for he knew too much. During his years of struggle, he told me he had met some ETA terrorists, whom he considered too radical and less arguments to sustain their fight terror, because in the Basque country the injustices that were committed were not the same as in El Salvador. Finally he said that he will facilitate contact with many interesting people in his country where, after the peace accords in 1992, currently governs the FMLN. We reserve for the penultimate day, a visit to the Amish, a religious community present in the Ohio state characterized by its isolation from the modern world, maintaining a lifestyle of centuries ago. However, the reality that we faced was very different than expected and often frustrating. On the one hand, the town where the Amish live in theory was completely corrupted by tourism, full of Amish food stores, hotels and restaurants. On the other hand, we immediately realized that the Amish, although the information we had, did not live a life so outdated and are surrounded by relatively modern technology. We decided to pay an entrance fee to visit an Amish home, which did not seem too different from a house in the 60s or 70s, with the difference that instead of electrical installation, light operated with natural gas. I asked the woman who attended the house, wearing a traditional simple dress , why could not the Amish use electricity and the Bible told us that they were forced to live with humility. She added that without electricity there is not the temptation to have television, a device that breaks up families, for example by preventing parents and children to eat together at the table. In any case I did not understand that they could not use electricity, or indeed they could only drive cars, but could use fuel-burning equipment such as tractors and sawmills. And less I understood when I read in the same house that the Amish bishops allow the use of solar panels to have electric light at night, much cheaper than the light gas. At the end I thought the Amish did not wish to deny the technology, even live like that in ancient times, just wanted to adapt more slowly to technology, so being able to be considered more humble than other mortals. Despite not preserve its origins, this way of life could even be considered for some nostalgic romantic but practical, these regulations and dogmas just bring more problems than advantages. I was surprised to read that the Amish children can only study in primary school through eighth grade, because they feel that the knowledge of high school and college are sterile to their way of life. I asked the woman of the house why an Amish man or woman could not be doctors, who visit when they get sick, or engineers who have designed their tractors, but the woman told me that they can not be because if they were should use electricity, which is forbidden in their culture. So in theory the Amish could only work in the field, making furniture and wooden houses and the tourism sector, the latter an activity that kept them connected to the outside world and under the influence of people-like me-intrusive to were questioning their faith and standards. Given all these inconsistencies keeping their backward society in the present, I was not surprised to read that ´according to their data, 20% of youth are leaving the Christian sect, although I swear that there are many more. Inevitably, this way of life is doomed to disappear, and eventually may be a pity, because the Amish are also known for their rejection of violence, for example by refusing to serve in the army, a quality too often absent today. Niagara Falls (see on map) 24/09/2010:
It has been a little over 3 months, since we arrived at LAX, and an immigration police asked us what were our plans in the United States. We explained that we had been four years travelling and that we intend to travel 2 years in North America, central and south, including eight months in the U.S.. Then, the immigration police warned us that we need to spend a month in Canada because if not, to re-enter the United States they would not give us six months and our visa to visit the United States will be only the remaining time of the original six-month visa. Relying on this information, we planned our stay in Canada for a month, but just across the border in Niagara Falls, we asked a Canadian immigration police if the information that we had was correct. Surprisingly, the police told us no, that re-enter the United States would still have the same visa, and in theory would have to leave the country on 9 December. Shocked by this new information, we asked the police if we could return to the U.S. to ask about this problem, since the entry into Canada had no American immigration control. To do this, we had to queue at immigration offices and other Canadian immigration offices in the United States, which angered Alexandra, who accused me two or three times of getting us into trouble. Finally, we were attended by an immigration police officer in the United States, who confirmed the information we received in Canada, that our visa was for six months and to enjoy six months, we had to go back one month to Europe, because Canada did not count as a third country. So we began to ask for possible solutions, because for us it was hard to get back to Europe or Mexico in two months and a half, until the police came to talk to his boss and came back with new information: ´`The law says you have to go back to Europe for 6 months visa. But if you are you a month in Canada and when back to the United States you prove that your intention is not to stay forever in the country and that you plan to go to Mexico, the immigration police also has the option to give you 6 months visa, but depends entirely on the police. ´` Happy with this more detailed information, we returned to Canada with the intention of spending a month in the hope of returning to the United States and that hopefully we met a nice enough immigration police who we could convince that we were really making a journey of 6 years worldwide. We crossed the border there in Niagara Falls, which we had already been amazed to observe from the United States. But from Canada, the falls were even more spectacular as we looked ahead as rushing waters of Niagara River rushing along nearly 700 meters down a cliff 50 meters high shaped like a horseshoe. It was a formidable sight, even if not the best waterfalls in the world, contrary to some opinions heard, they were surpassed in height, width and flow rate (during the rainy season) by the Victoria Falls, between Zambia and Zimbabwe. In particular, we enjoyed more of the Niagara Falls, because we had visited Victoria during the dry season, but expect much more ecstatic after a year when we had planned a visit to the Iguazu Falls, Brazil and Argentina, in theory even more impressive from the previous two.
In Toronto we enjoyed an unforgettable entertainment, comparable to the one I had received years ago in Ukraine and Russia, and perhaps not surprisingly, since the family we stayed came from Poland, fleeing their country under communism. Ewa, the mother of the family, treated us like we were more than her children, inviting us to dinner and breakfast every day (except for one night when Alexandra cooked), suggesting remote and interesting places to visit in Canada and Costa Rica , leaving a card for free entry into the national parks of Canada, giving us food before leaving ... In exchange for the overwhelming hospitality we could only show pictures of the trip, telling them funny stories and frightening, and commit to host them at our house when we returned to Catalonia. The next day arrived, Sunday, we visited Toronto. We were lucky that Ewa and Christian,her husband, called some friends in the center of town and could park for free in his apartment and save 10 or $ 15 parking. We started walking around the university, where he had a book fair and had a chance to relax listening to a concert of Mexican music and Cameroonian. Then we trekked up to the high Canadian National Tower, the 553m without finding much of interest along the way: many office buildings and deserted streets, because it was Sunday and it was cold. Yet we found one thing that people in Canada were less reluctant to live in apartment blocks, as in Europe, and secondly, unlike the United States also had many more buildings of stone and brick. Convincing ourselves that Toronto was very unattractive, the following days were spent relaxing in the family home, working and talking to Christian, who was a truck driver and then had no job, and his daughter Zoshia. Both, showed a critical attitude toward the U.S., their policies and wars and also to an important part of society that wants to have the right to own arms, do not want universal health care system and accept that students pay up three times more than in universities in Canada. They also criticized the attitude of their citizens, who did not understand that they wanted the independence of Quebec. Without modifying its critical tone, Christian agreed to be interviewed for the project ´`taking the pulse of the world, believing that the main problem of world and Canada was that politicians were stupid, populist policies were only used to be re-elected, a difficult problem solution because of tyranny or kingdoms work less, while education would improve the situation. On a personal level Christian feels happy, but he would be more happy if he did not work, but the secret of happiness is not to worry about money.
I was convinced that Algonquin was a national park, especially since Ewa had recommended us to visit it when we had the card for access to national parks for free, but when I entered to the information center of Algonquin and asked them to recommend some hikes, The ranger who served me told me: - Sorry, this is a provincial park and this card is not valid, you should pay the $ 16 entry. I stayed with a stunned face, while he replied: - One moment, I will ask my wife what to do. But I did not. I returned to the truck and, without telling Alexandra the conversation I had with the ranger, we entered the park with the intention of making an excursion. If I would have said to Alexandra that we were doing the walking illegally and we ventured to bring us a fine, she would be hysterical and I would have to leave the park immediately. So I waited until the next day, when before the end of a nice walk i told her the news. Naturally, for her it was not funny, and then quickened her pace to reach as soon as possible the car and escape the confines of the park. In any event, the disinformation of Alexandra Park allowed us to go quietly. Even Alexandra was very animated to accompany me in all excursions proposed in Algonquin, walking down the side of several lakes and surrounded by forests began to be stained by the fall. Surely we would have been disappointed by the park if it were not for the magnificent spectacle of the fall: between some trees and fresh green leaves, many others had changed the color to yellow, red, orange and brown.
Toronto did not fascinated us, however we were delighted of Ottawa because it was smaller (despite being the capital of Canada) and had many more historic buildings. In Ottawa we stayed with Dino, of Italian origin, who lived near the center, where we were walking on Saturday and Sunday. Toronto already seemed to us a more European city, but Ottawa has given us even more of this feeling, especially in its historic center, which featured the magnificent Parliament buildings and some churches of the nineteenth century. Dino was another great who treated us great, maybe too much, leaving dinner that he made the day we arrived, although he already knew he had to leave and could not eat with us. Dino insisted on inviting us all, but we did not always agree, although understand that he wanted to be hospitable to us in the same way they had been with him when he travelled through various regions of the world. In any event, on Saturday Alexandra cooked and ate all three together, having the opportunity to discuss different topics. Dino confirmed an observation that we had done on the road in the province of Ottawa signs were written in English and French, and then explained how it worked in Quebec, where he had been living most of his life. In Quebec it was mandatory for all businesses to have signs in French and English could only be used if the letters were at most 50% smaller than the French. Later, talking about Quebec, I realized that Quebecers enjoyed the main demands of the Catalan nationalists. Even the government of Quebec had the capacity to hold a referendum on independence for the region in Canada, although in both called the Separatists had not reached 50% of the votes (1980 40.44% 1995 49.42%). Dino had voted against the previous referendum, like many French friends of his who lived in Montreal, saying that the secessionists were only for cultural reasons, as the region´s economy would suffer with separation. In another conversation, said the United States and Canada are countries that are very productive, but on the contrary, employees in most companies only have two weeks vacation. That is why, the only opportunity Americans have to travel a long vacation will be caught without charge or simply fold the work to travel for a year, Dino chose the option to travel through much of the world. Boston, MA (see on map) 03/10/2010:
Although I only visited Boston for a day, it was a city I liked, because unlike the other cities visited in the United States it had some old churches and buildings half hidden under the skyscrapers and also historically had been a very important city. It was here where that it started the war of independence between the United States and England, the first colony of the United Kingdom was free. Walking along the path of independence marked with a red line on the ground for 5 miles, I passed through the square where the slaughter had taken place in Boston, when five Americans who protested against the tax increase, were killed by British soldiers. Also the famous Boston Tea Party was born, when dozens of citizens decided to protest the sea pulling the entire cargo of tea from three ships, which would have to pay taxes if they had been unloaded at the port. It was also possible to visit from the same route several cemeteries of the eighteenth and nineteenth century, where were buried several victims of the revolution or of the various battles for independence that took place around Boston. Separated only by the Charles River, the next day I visited the city of Cambridge, in the center of which lies the famous Harvard University founded in 1631, 150 years before independence, making it one of the oldest in the country, where throughout history have graduated up to 8 presidents of the nation and up to 75 Nobel laureates. In Boston we were hosted by a couple from Couchsurfing, with which there was not much interaction, which I attributed to their excessive passion for beer. However, Jesse and Erin were one of the couples who had been more active and had already hosted more than 400 people, perhaps because Jesse was the brother of the founder of CouchSurfing. One night I decided to accompany Jesse to the pub and have a chat with him, but I honestly did not understand his speech and his answers seemed too convoluted. However, through Jesse, I got to know little about his brother, Casey Fenton, who had the idea for CouchSurfing after making a trip to Iceland in 1999 and has sent an email to 1500 students asking for lodging. Having received up to 50 offers of accommodation, he thought about the potential of a network of free hospitality that could spread throughout the world. So in 2003 he founded Couchsurfing, a non-profit project which, with an efficient network of volunteers, currently has 2.2 million members in 237 countries and territories. However, despite the success, Casey was determined to keep Couchsurfing as a non-profit, no advertising and financed solely from donations, although he starts thinking of withdrawing from the project, as his brother explained, and engage in any another thing that will bring more economic performance in the future. Our stay in Boston coincided with the American elections of mid-term, in which the tea party or extreme Republican right got very good results. A social movement that had taken the name of the group that had fought against taxes imposed by the British crown before independence. We were surprised that Jesse was the first person in America who felt identified with Republicans, because the social movement Couchsurfing is generally formed by people rooted mentality on the left. Anyway, his wife Erin was a Democrat and voting that afternoon was an interesting discussion. Erin had gone to vote, agreeing to maintain certain taxes in a form attached, but Jesse did not intend to vote because he said that if he did, he would vote the opposite, nullifying Erin´s vote. But Erin believed that democracy was more important to their partisan feelings and forcing Jesse to go to vote, who chose the Republican ticket and checked the option to cancel the tax consulted, according that for him it was a measure to keep communism. However, that night we knew the Democrats had won the state of Massachusetts, of which Boston is the capital, however the majority of citizens had voted to cancel taxes, including alcohol tax to fund partnerships to help alcoholics. Montreal, QC (see on map) 08/10/2010:
Montreal is the largest city in the province of Quebec, the second largest city in Canada, and the second largest city, with French speakers (after Paris). For two days, we visited Montreal by bike, enjoyed the many bike lanes that the city has, being even closer to the European appearance, but did not have any sufficiently interesting historical center, just like most visited cities in the United States and Canada. Most interesting perhaps was the Jean-Talon market visited the final day, where they came with fruits and vegetables in the open air at a price much cheaper than the supermarkets. As always, the most exciting in American cities was the interaction with people, particularly with our hosts, which turned to be sweethearts. Guillaume, Emilie and their daughter Sara put us wonder, introducing us to several friends, all French speakers, who had trouble speaking fluent English with us. During a dinner with friends, Guillaume told us the story of Quebec, beginning his penance after the war of 7 years when France lost Quebec in the hands of England. Then we were told that the Quebec independence sentiment worsened in the middle of the twentieth century, when the Quebecois could only access the low-paid jobs. Anyway, now Quebec has a large autonomy within a federal state and the main reasons for wanting independence are essentially cultural or sentimental. It could even be that the Quebec economic losing weight if gained independence, it does not experience an economic takeover as in Catalonia where, according to analysts, there is a deficit of 10% of Catalan GDP, ie, annually 10% of the Catalan wealth is distributed in the rest of Spain. Given this, I wonder why the yearning for independence in Quebec is higher than the Catalan-as I suspect, as in Catalonia do not think we got a result as favorable as in the Quebec referendum, where 49.42% of the population voted in for independence. In another dinner at home, I asked Guillaume why in the Canadian $ 20 bills appeared the image of the Queen of England and the numbers of roads were framed within a crown. Guillaume laughed half ashamed and then confessed that the framers of the constitution of 1982 declared independence from England but preferred to keep their queen. Canada currently pays nothing to the crown, but she supports a representative of royalty or governor who must ratify all laws passed by parliament. Finding no sense to this old political system, then we also asked why so many people are in favor of continuing royalty in many countries, including Australia, where 54.4% of the population voted in favor of keeping the monarchy in the referendum 1999. Returning to motivate the project ´`taking the pulse of the world,´` I interviewed Guillaume in Spanish, who thought that the biggest problem of the world was the lack of understanding among people, getting all the other problems worse. Regionally, the biggest problem with Canada is the polarization of positions and the division of the community, which does not allow leaders to be accepted by all. Guillaume on personal level was happy and in the future probably nothing could make him happier because he was already living in happiness. In Montreal, Alexandra asked me to meet another person in Couchsurfing, Alex, who had come by car from Mexico. It was important to know through Alex if we could sell our Chevy van in Central America and better do it before leaving the U.S.. Similarly, it was interesting to hear the experience of Alex in Mexico, which was not too good, explaining that it was a country at war and had lived several shootings and many moments of tension. So much so, Alex stated that he had lost all desire to travel alone and is now seen to live in Canada, a country that is safe, quiet and relaxed. The only downside to the meeting is that Alexandra was shocked, including myself, because again in Mexico fear that Alexandra again have new nervous breakdown comparable to those of Africa or Pakistan. Finally, we used our stay in Montreal to reunite with a good friend of the Basque Country, Iñigo and fellow Canadian Sarah, who we had met in Xian, China. After 3 years of travel, Sarah had returned to work, but Iñigo was completely lost, he could not work legally in Canada and in Spain he had not found work. We spent many hours talking, about trivial things but also the problems faced by many travellers, for whom travel is a drug that will keep you hooked throughout life, a drug that may only be payed with money, forcing them to be long periods stuck in an office or factory, awaiting the next dose of travel. |
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