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‹ Previous (13/04/2009) MONTH Next (2009-06-12)› ‹ Previous (2009-04-21 - Laos) COUNTRY Next (2009-05-29 - Thailand)› Cambodja Phnom Phen (see on map) 13/05/2009:
When leaving Laos and entering Cambodia, immediately was evident that we had entered a new country and a new political system. We made the visa in the border, but they asked two dollars extra at the time of getting passport. I asked them for a receipt to make sure it was not for corruption and indeed, not wanting to make us any type of receipt they did not want to deliver our passports if we did not pay. I did not get too angry verbally, for i was in a queue with many other tourists ready to pay, so, I paid. The road of the north was very good, but it very soon started to get bad and during quite a lot of kilometres we found ourselves circulating through dirt tracks. The road was quite deserted, but from time to time we crossed with some car of luxury (among these a Hummer), a signal of being in a corrupt country. And, afterwards indeed, looking Internet I have discovered that Cambodia is one of the 20 most corrupt countries in the world. But the political problems are not finished here, for even if Cambodia is considered democratic, it seems quite dictatorial, with the same president governing from the fall of the regime of Pol Pot or of the Red Khmers in 1979, and with big metallic plaques along the road with publicity of the Popular party of Cambodia. Phnom Phen, the capital of Cambodia seems much more developed than Vientiane, favoured by the capitalism in front of the communism, but inevitably, there was also a lot of more misery. The bus left us next to the lake Boeng Kak, where there are different relatively economic hotels and relatively expensive restaurants. In the bus we had known a couple of Catalans, Jordi from Olot and Anna from Gerona, and all together, chose a hotel next to the lake that by night seemed pretty. Anyway, the following two days we have convinced ourselves of the bad choice, our room continuously creaked giving us the sensation that would be sunk in the lake and later Alexandra has discovered a rat in the toilet that today has eaten up the bar of soap that we buy. Perhaps, unfortunately, this pretty place will stop existing because as some owners of the area complained, a foreign company has bought the lake and plans on drying it to build a luxury hotel. Naturally, the corrupt government seems ready to help and is at the moment unaware of the complaints of the inhabitants of the neighbourhood. In any case, even if the brownish lake is not attractive, the area was nice, with an alley full of shops that offered prices double or triple of expensive that the ones in a lateral shop, empty bars with young cambogian girls that waited the occasion to hunt a tourist, different ranks of tuc-tucs (tricycles) or taxi motorcycles that waited customers, and many girls and women that dressed pyjamas. In fact, the image of the women already dressing pyjamas had surprised us on the way. I had already assumed that the traditional dress of the women was very similar to the occidental pyjamas (fine cloth, of light and bright colours, and with infantile drawings), but, reading an article I found out afterwards about these clothes being really pyjamas that were sold together with the lingerie. Anyway, to dress pyjamas had become popular in Cambodia because it is one of the freshest clothes that can wear. In any case, I also have to say that we have not observed any man in pyjamas. Yesterday, the day after arriving, we went out to walk through the centre, arriving to the central market, where they sold everything: fruits, jewellery, fish, meat, shells, insects and fried spiders... Afterwards we kept returning for the side of the river Tonlé Sap, which joines with the Mekong river in front of the city but does not have any attractiveness. We also went up to the Buddhist temple of Wat Sampao Meas, which contained some interesting paints, and I found a repetitive image with Laos outside: different men sold small birds caged so that you could release them. One more irony that it is considered a good work to release the birds when in fact you are encouraging that they are put into a cage, because the business is profitable Finally, today on Wednesday in the morning we have caught a taxi motorcycle and we have gone towards the south of the city up to the China embassy, where we have started to carry out the visa (in theory we will have it on Monday). Afterwards we have walked to the next museum, one that exposes one of the most regrettable episodes of the history of Cambodia and of the recent history of the world. Formerly, the buildings of the museum had been the classrooms of a secondary school, but during the regime of the Red Khmers, the building was converted in one of the most infamous prisons of the 20th century. From 1975 to 1979, between 17000 and 20000 people passed for the prison of Tuol Sleng or S21, of which only 7 people went out with life. The rest suffered endless hours of systematic torture with the aim of obtaining confessions and being able to be later broken the neck and slaughtered to the outskirts, in the infamous fields of the death (death fields). It is curious to know that some of the guards of the prison, and different leaders of the Red Khmers, also ended up suffering the tortures and the death in prison, because they had shown too much empathy with the victims. The terror which Pol Pot (the leader of the Red Khmers) managed to establish in Cambodia was held by itself because, if you did not manage to behave with sufficient cruelty against the victims, you ended up becoming one. Besides, you could never question yourself on the innocence of the victims, then according to the Red Khmers, it was better to trap ten innocents than to leave one guilty in freedom. However, who were at first the victims? Naturally the political dissidents, but also any person that showed signs of having education (for example to wear glasses) or of to have belonged to the middle social class. Pol Pot was a communist leader who thought that the peasants were the only representatives of the working class and that the cities constituted focus where it was very difficult to eliminate the activities of free market. So, when Pol Pot gained the revolution in 1975, he eliminated the monetary system and emptyed all the cities (more than 2 million people in Phnom Phen) and sent all the people to different regions to cut the forest and to cultivate rice, working with conditions of slavery. Many people died, and a lot more in the destination, the production of rice did then not obtain the goals yearned for by Pol Pot and the hunger extended to all the country. In the end, with a paralyzed industry (one of the 7 people that were saved from the prison Tuol Sleng was a mechanic that could fix machines) and a terrified population, was quite simple for the communists of Vietnam and deserters of Cambodia to conquer in 1979 most of the country, where they restored the symbolic figure of a king and a corrupt democracy. Unfortunately, these 4 years of Pol Pot to the power were terrible, for during the regime 2 million Cambodians (20% of the population) died, some of the most terrifying numbers in the history of the humanity. Pol Pot died exiled in the mountains in 1998 and since then, they have started to arrest and to judge some leaders of the regime, as the director of the prison Tuol Sleng, even though these (and all the other repressors) are justified arguing if they had not acted like this would have been converted in victims. Sihanoukville (see on map) 17/05/2009:
We felt likegoing to the beach and, having heard the beaches of Thailand are too developed and full of tourists,we decide of trying the only city in Cambodia that lives looking to the sea, Sihanoukville, a city that started to exist from 1955 when the only port of deep waters in the country (all the trade was developed before by earth or by the rivers) was built. The Catalans Jordi and Anna also came with us and together we went to the beach called Serendipity, the most popular and full of tourists. For luck, we found a quite economic hotel with compared to the prices of the area: five dollars for a quite big and clean room, with television and toilet. It does not have to be said that Alexandra was delighted with the room, in spite of the visit that we had by night from a huge insect of about five centimetres long that it insisted on going on the shoulder of Alexandra, while she screamed very hysterical that i killed it or took it out. The truth, it disgusted me to kill it and finally I managed to throw it out of the room. It was a day of luck for the insect, because if it had fallen in the hands of a Cambodian for sure he would have captured it, fried it and eat it. Jordi and Anna did not find room in our hotel and had to catch a room for double the money in a pretty bungalow on the beach. I noticed that they did not have the same budgetary restrictions as we and for example, with the same money that they spent to travel a year for all the world, our friends David and Maria could travel 4 or 5 years. Anyway, the quality in the way of travelling was noticed because, while we tried to imitate the way of travelling of our friends, Jordi and Anna they did not restrict from eating in the expensive restaurants of the beach. The problem was that apart from the restaurants of the beach there was almost nothing, besides, all the shops of the area had the products about four times more expensive than in Phnom Phen. Alexandra despaired immediately, commenting that she was dying of hunger all times, then we only found to the outskirts some shops that sold soups and some quite mediocre sandwiches. The second day in Sihanoukville, I went out to walk above the rocks in the west of the beach of Serendipity up to the beach of Sokha, where there was a couple of big hotels that took up almost all the extension of the coast. In spite of everything, the beach was pretty because at the end of this there was a fishermen. I arrived up to there and walked among its wooden homes, in the face of the surprise of the inhabitants that continuously greeted me with friendliness. There I found a local restaurant and with hunger from the previous day I ate up a couple of delicious soups and I bought some fruits to the local price. Afterwards I returned under the scorching sun up to the hotel. In the afternoon i had thought to bathe, but we met with Jordi and Anna and it became dark while we conversed. But, I didnt bath the day after, because at night I started to feel bad and the following day I passed it entirely in bed. I felt like vomiting, indicating to me that i had eaten something bad, although at times i thought that it could be malaria or some come back of the one that I had in Africa. Also Alexandra was feeling bad, some symptoms different to mine. So, when today we have already felt a little better we have decided to jump the budget and to do a good meal in a restaurant of the beach, Alexandra eating chicken and I fish, accompanied by a large jar of beer (which only cost 0,25 dollars, a promotion to recruit tourists). It has been a nice evening party, observing as the light it was turned off behind some clouds of torments and listening to the demands for the children that asked for charity or bracelets. Phnom Phen (see on map) 19/05/2009:
On Monday, we returned to Phnom Phen a day later from what we had foreseen . We returned to the area of the hotels of the lake Boeng Kak and stopped again to the same hotel where we had lodged ourselves previously. For luck in the new room there was not any hole for where the rats could enter, although the runs that these did through the ceiling were terrifying. It was also impressive as all our room rattled when the foreign girl of the room next to us invited the Cambodian young owner of the hotel to share it with her. We had to wait to today on Tuesday in the morning to collect the passport in the China embassy but we were still a little tired and ill and yesterday afternoon we did not do anything. In the morning we have collected the passports and have paid the Chinese visas (inexplicably the Alexandra had to pay 70 $ and I only 30 $). Afterwards, we passed through the area of the central market, returned to the area of the lake and passed the afternoon between the hotel and the small outdoor restaurant occupied by Veasna. Veasna was a very nice man that on the contrary to all the hotels of the area has a shop very simple but that does the best sandwiches (David and Maria: when you are through the area try the sandwich of omlet!). Yesterday in the afternoon I asked him how the repression of the regime of Khmers Rouges was lived and without any type of reluctance he started to explain to us that since small, his family lived in Phnom Phen. When the Khemers Rouges entered the city, these obliged the people to leave towards the fields ( about two million people), including the ten members of his family. Through the path they killed his father, who had been welded and once arrived to the destination killed his brother, who had been military police. After a month they divided up all the families displaced according to sex and ages and Veasna, which was 8 years, was sent to work to dig channels, beside another group of 30 boys of ages between 6 and 15 years. During the four years that he was working as slave for the Khmeres Rouges he passed a lot of hunger, for they only gave a bowl of rice every day. Even then, Veasna commented that he was lucky, because in other areas the food was still more scarce and the mortality due to malnutrition was sky-high. On the other hand, the group of Veasna changed of location every ten days, once a canalisation finished to take water to the new fields of rice, and when passing through the forest they could collect hidden roots or to hunt insects that ate with delight. When finally finished the regime of Pol Pot they could be brought together with the other two surviving relatives (of a family of 10 people) and returned to Phnom Phen. His home was occupied by vietnameses soldiers, but these told him that the family could occupy any other home empty of the city and keep it (the majority of the people that died during the regime originated from the cities). They occupied a good home for some years, but in the face of theneed formoney, in 1995 he sold it and bought one more humble near the lake. For luck, in 1999 the first tourists started to appear through the area and he opened the first restaurant, with quite a lot of success, even though he has always maintained it and has a very humble aspect. Now, Veasna seems a happy man, even if he looks with worry at the next drying of the lake Boeng Kak and the possible repercussion on the tourism. Siem Reap (see on map) 23/05/2009:
At few kilometres of Siem Reap is found Angkor, the greatest marvel of SE Asia. In spite of everything, after 3 years and a half of journey and of the numerous visits of monuments all around the world, it seems that I am losing the capacity to be impressed. In spite of everything, I paid the entry of 40dolas and was going by bicycle for three days over the tens of temples that there are spread by an enormous area. Yes, Angkor is gripping, but I personally felt more attracted during the visit to some temples visited in India and built also among the 9 and 13 centuries. And is more, leaving aside some temple specifically, what has fascinated me more in Angkor have not been the temples, but the patient and powerful fight of the nature to reconquer the ground occupied by the human constructions. Some temples preserve signals of this fierce battle and still preserve spectacular roots going among the stones of the walls and holding centennial trees. But in most of the cases, the temples have been conquered to the nature again and restored in a long process initiated at the end of the nineteenth century by French archaeologists. Anyway, even if the forest has been felled with many temples, foundations have been repaired, channels have been excavated to protect the monuments of the erosion of the water and even, in some cases have been reconstructed in stone on some new foundations; the nature can be considered the winner in Angkor. As they reveal images obtained by satellite, Angkor was the largest pre-industrial urban centre of the world, occupying an area of 3000 square kilometres (bigger that the current New York) and holding a population of a million inhabitants; a space that nowadays continues being taken up by forests and fields of rice. In any case, the Khmer Empire dominated the nature and the adjacent cultures between the 9th century and 13, when they built the enormous metropolis of Angkor and its temples, in general built with stone piled up in pyramidal form on some foundations of sand. The temples were built and confirmed first to Hinduism, later to the Buddhism and some centuries later another time to the Hinduism, under the sponsorship of an emperor that destroyed all the statues of budha. However, the religion finally winner was the Buddhist, although this was the cause of the decline of the empire, influenced also by the superiority of the empire of Sukhothai, the one that we visited some weeks ago in Thailand. The Khmer empire converted to a branch of the Buddhism called Theravada, which denies the deity. This negation of the divine took power away from the governors, who stopped building temples and lost the capacity to hold the channels of water that the fields of rice had to irrigate to feed the million of people of the city. Finally, the city collapsed and had to move where at present is Phnom Phen. Thailand Bangkok (see on map) 29/05/2009: Going out of Cambodia, we observed more than ever the catchers of insects. The catches were simple, consisting of a big vertical plastic, a light above to attract the insects and an enclosure with water to catch those that fell. In spite of already having observed multiple shops of fried insects in Thailàndia, Laos and Cambodia, it is still incredible that there are so many people selling them. But what I found stranger is that the people stopped in the shops, chose a type of insects, and after paying left happy with a plastic bag full of insects, which they tasted with delight. It was extraordinary that nobody put them to buy them and to eat them, or that were not taking part in any TV competition. Maybe after all, the insects were good. In fact, I ran into a traveller who tried the larvae of insects in a shop and ended up buying a bag because he liked them. Maybe we should also have tried them not to pass hunger in Cambodia, for luck, we were entering Thailand and we should not feel tempted to try them. Alexandra wanted to remain at least five days in Bangkok, resting but especially eating. What big difference with the two previous countries... Really I also felt like arriving to Bangkok. We have passed ourselves five days eating crisp chicken until bursting, and sweets, coffees, cocacolas... Also we have relaxed with the people of Overstay, the people of Couch Surfing with who we had been the previous time. We have been conversing, reading, writing and staking different games of chess or of escrable. On the other hand, also there was another reason to stay in Bangkok. The day before yesterday, on Wednesday, the FC Barcelona played the end of the Europe Football Cup against Manchester. In 2006, exactly at the beginning of the journey i also made all the possible to see the end of the Europe Cup in Tirana, the capital of Albania and the Barça won. This year the Barça was again in the end and with some other boys from Overstay we were in the tourist centre of Bangkok where at two in the morning there were many open bars offering the football game. I do not have to say that the game was excellent and that Barça won very deservedly, but was not as cheered up as in the 2006 in Albania, perhaps it was too late or perhaps there was a majority of amateurs of Manchester. Ko Kradan (see on map) 03/06/2009:
Before going out from Bangkok I looked for people of Couchsurfing who were ready to lodge us on the beaches of Thailand in the south. I got answer from a very interesting boy that lived in an island, but unfortunately did not have mattress where we could sleep, and we have just preferred another offer in another island, Koh Kradan, in the west of Thailand, where some Italians had a hotel (www.kalumekradan.com) that offered small free huts to the members of couchsurfing. From Bangkok we caught a night train with bed of second class quite comfortable and wide (a space of 2 people in the train of Thailand would be occupied by 6 or 8 people in India). The day after in the morning we arrived to Trang, from where we caught a minibus towards a port of river where waited for us a small boat to take us to the island of Koh Kradan. But here we gave ourselves the first fright, for the small boat costed 16euros and the same amount to return. Even then, I was ready to spend some days of rest in an island and we embarked. Alexandra had the second fright, for as it goes out from the estuary of the river and leaves the protection of an island, we find ourselves in the middle of the open sea with some waves which it seemed that they would knock the small wooden small boat in any moment. It was a journey of almost one hour that was made very long for Alexandra, but for me it was very short, for the landscape of small islands cutting back the horizon line was charming. The Island of Koh Kradan is a very small island, of more than one kilometre long and about 200 meters of width. Even so, the long extension of beach (protected by the waves in the east of the island) was taken up by about 4 or 5 hotels with bungalows where only there was a total of two tourists and us. Evidently, we had arrived in low season, but fortunately the time has held and throughout the five days it has done quite a lot of sun and it rained only for an hour. Anyway, despite being in a paradise of holidays, Alexandra was completely unsatisfied, then in the island there were no shops or outdoor shops to buy food and the prices of the restaurant of the hotel of the Italian were a little expensive. Evidently, the Italian was doing a little business lodging people from couchsurfing for these were seen obliged to eat in the restaurant and to catch the small boat of which he would have a commission. Anyway, even if the Italian was not on the island and we have not met him, I also have to mention his honesty, because before arriving to the island he recommended us to buy food and water from the mainland. In the island there was nothing much to do except relaxing,reading, writing... even so, the three last days I have been dedicating a couple of daily hours to swim above the corals close to the beach, with some glasses and feet of duck from the hotel. The visibility of the water was not too good (probably for the season) but in balance, the quantity of fish that there was was impressive (especially in the corals of the south). On numerous occasions I found myself swimming among hundreds of goldfish that swam against the tide microorganisms of the waters. In theory, the island was found protected in a nature reserve, even so, an afternoon I was not surprised too much observing a small boat that threw nets very near the coralline area. Yesterday afternoon I also went out from my working routine to the computer and went out through the island to walk, threading a marked road as "escape in the event of tsunami". The road crossed a forest or tropical forest, very thick, up to the other side of the island, where the waves exploded with force against the rocks. Surprisingly, it was a show completely different to the calm beaches of the east of the island. Malaysia Penang (see on map) 08/06/2009:
After relaxing for 5 days in the small and calm island of Koh Kradan, we took different minibuses again to do some more hundreds of kilometres towards the south, to visit another island, this time in friendly Malaysia, a country that we enter without any problem. The island, called Penang, is the most visited former English enclave in Malaysia, acquired in 1786 by the captain Francis Light in exchange for getting married with the daughter of the sultan of Kedah and in exchange for a military protection that he never provided. The captain Francis established the Georgetown city declaring it a free port, attracting quickly Chinese and Indians of other English enclaves. These different cultures, including the Malaysian, were successful in the city, preserving their community, identity and religion, being this one of the reasons of the fascination that at present produces Georgetown. In Georgetown there is the greatest proportion of Chinese in Malaysia (40% Chinese, 40% Malaysians and the rest mostly Indian). It can be observed in the great quantity of Chinese temples in the city: Taoist and Buddhists, which are very similar in design, with a full decoration, although the Taoist temples have statues of its idols and Gods and the Buddhists sculpture of Buddha. On the other hand there are some old churches (a small proportion of Chinese are Christian), hinduist temples and a couple of pretty mosques, to which the Malaysians go, mostly Muslim. In the mosque of the Kapitan Kelin, a Malay explained to me that, on the contrary to the Buddhists and Chinese Taoism and to the hinduist Indians, who worship the statues with offerings, incense and prayers, the Muslims do not have images in the mosques because they worship God directly. On the other hand, not everything is about temples, churches and mosques in Penang. Georgetown has an interesting Chinese neighbourhood with its shops concealed behind doorways and wooden shutters half open, and an Indian neighbourhood where its played music at high volume and Indian clothes. In this neighbourhood, the atmosphere is that of an Indian film, where you can recognise the Indian actors, and the temples and restaurants, but you can not smell the unpleasant smells of the Indian or observe the omnipresent dirt of the street. Surprisingly, the Indian neighbourhood was an clean copy of India, with clean and wide restaurants and good food with a lot of meat. In Georgetown we met with Kendra, a local girl of CS, and also with a German boy from Couchsurfing. Kendra, collected us with her car and the four of us went to the hippodrome of Penang that opened its doors for some days, afterwards we ate some delicious noodles (noodles) with shellfish, and in the afternoon visited the botanical garden of Penang that had an interesting exhibition of bonsáis, insectivorous plants and orchids. All the time, Kendra, of Chinese origin, offered us good conversation and explained to us that each of the three communities in Malaysia (Chinese, Indian and Malay) speaks its language and they have its traditions, but they relate among themselves and there are no discriminations. For example, in the state school, the cultures are mixed and the youngsters have friends of all the cultures. In spite of everything, sometimes there are problems with the government, because this applies the Sharia or Islamic law. For example, a Chinese girl married a Muslim and in order to do so she had to convert to Islam, but the relation was not good and they divorced. Then, the girl wanted to stop being Muslim but the Islamic law does not allow it (when one has converted to the Islam, will be a Muslim forever, wanted or not) and now she cannot get married with a Chinese of her culture because he should also convert to Islam. Today we have relaxed and have left to pass the hours of the day with calmness. In a given moment, it was in our small room of the hotel, looking at the fan of the wall that moderately was saving me of the heat of south east Asia, and i realised that I sit very happy, despite having given up since some time ago my life of comfort in Europe. I can imagine easily the rest of my life living in small and hot room of hotel, in exchange for not having a stressful work again or in exchange for power to keep discovering cultures and new people around the world. Kuala Lumpur (see on map) 12/06/2009:
Zaikha and Faizal were the first couchsurfers that I lodged in my home now i will go to their house after about four years. Of that meeting a good memory remained, and from the goodbye we decided to see eachother again in the future, when my journey around the world took me to Kuala Lumpur (or KL as they call it here). Zaikha and Faizal had travelled in Europe with their small daughter Aresha, but now already she has grown, however, there was a new baby in the family, Zara. The family gave us the room of Aresha and, taking advantage of their Internet, the day after we remained in their house, relaxing and conversing with Zaikha. The following day, me and Alexandra celebrated our third anniversary together. I have never been so much time with a girl, and sharing so many hours and adventures. The communal life has not always been easy, but, we have started to learn with time to accept our differences and to understand our personalities. Probably, once the journey finished, the communal life will be much easier, although we cannot forget that we still have about two or three years of journey. Even then, we follow with the idea about marrying once arrived in Europe, because we love eachother and because it can help to get the US visa easier. The celebration in itself was not too special, to us maybe yes, because we went up on the bridge that joins the two towers Petronas (with 252 m, one of the highest buildings of the world) and we did an activity that we did not do since we went out of Europe: going to the cinema (we saw: Angels and Demons). Yesterday, on the following day of our anniversary, we arrange to meet with another boy of couchsurfing, Yu Wei, of Chinese origin, and with his car we went towards Melaka, another colonial town that reminded us of Penang. The state of Melaka is one of the oldest Malay sultanates (it is at present one of the few states that does not have sultan) that was successful up to the arrival of the Portuguese, who conquered the city and built a strength. In spite of everything, the Dutch stole it from the Portuguese, finally yielding it to the Englishmen. One may not miss that the city has interesting traces of this colonial past, although we visit them without entertaining ourselves too much, preferring being settled in a bar to talk with Yu Wei and Kirksman, a boy from Melaka of Chinese origin that was training for the olympic games as weight lifter of dumbbells. The races, which are an identity sign for the Malaysians, are a sign of prejudice or racism in Europe, was one of the first subjects of conversations. In any case, in Malaysia it is normal to talk about races and to name some of the discriminations that the Chinese or Indian suffer from the Malaysians. For example, the universities have a maximum number of entrance for the Chinese, that are seen obliged to studying abroad (many do not return). On the other hand, Yu Wei and Kirksman complained that in spite of the help of the government, the poorest communities were the Malay and Indian ones, and that that was owed to the Chinese culture, that it is always centred in working and gaining money. Today, to finish rounding the week up, I have met with Roman a Swiss friend with whom we had shared some weeks on the beach of Goa. Roman has just received his Land Rover in KL originating from Bangladesh (quite more economic that to send it from India). Anyway, with the car caught in the south of asia, Roman yet does not know which would be his immediate future, although he continues with the dream of travelling around the world with his 4 x 4 (even in the very expensive Japan). Roman has a feeling of bond with his 4 x 4 very similar to the majority of travellers with car; similar also to mine, although I managed to break it abandoning the car in Nepal, that has been a very good decision, because it has allowed us to travel with a much more adjusted budget. On the other hand, even if Roman had been travelling less time than we, he was already intoxicating himself with the spirit of the traveller, and declared to me that he started to dream of travelling during all his life, even if he kept sacrificing the relation with his distant girlfriend, who did not decide to follow him. ‹ Previous (13/04/2009) MONTH Next (2009-06-12)› ‹ Previous (2009-04-21 - Laos) COUNTRY Next (2009-05-29 - Thailand)› |
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