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Romania

Brasov - Transilvania (see on map)

16/06/2006:

He pasado una semana fantástica en Transilvània, buena parte del tiempo acompañado de Alexandra. Al Inicio del viaje me había dado la libertad de quedarme más tiempo de lo que tuviera previsto en algún punto del itinerario que considerara que valiera la pena. Y Transilvània es una región que enamora, aunque la buena compañía también ha ayudado. Me gustaría mucho volver a repetir esta semana con Alexandra en otra secuencia de mi itinerario, se lo propuse y quizá nos volveremos a reencontrar en Escandinavia.

Alexandra es una estudiante de derecho que al mismo tiempo trabaja en el departamento legal de una gran empresa de telefonía. De todos modos, no es una chica materialista ni centrada en el mundo material. Es una chica soñadora y llena de ambiciones y proyectos: filosóficos, literarios, periodísticos, profesionales, de viajes ... Quizás demasiados proyectos porque actualmente se empieza a dar cuenta que no los podrá abarcar todos y que tendrá que abandonar algunos por el camino. Es una chica inteligente y con mucha iniciativa. También es muy reflexiva, muchos ratos se los pasa en silencio concentrada y pensando en sus cosas. Es abierta y muestra muy segura de sí misma, pero cuando se aparta del mundo que conoce y domina se cierra y se vuelve insegura. De todos modos, confió en mi y juntos nos adentramos en terrenos inexplorados. Es una chica muy preciosa.

Transilvània es una tierra verde, llena de prados, bosques frondosos y altas montañas, algunas nevadas. La mucha gente trabaja en el campo, con azadas, arrancando las malas hierbas; o con alfalfa(¿), cortando la hierba alta; muchos otros vigilan una o dos bacas, que generalmente pacen ligadas de una cadena ligada de los cuernos. Por las carretas hay muchos carruajes tirados por uno o dos caballos, algunas veces con un carcomí corriendo al lado. Los carruajes están cargados de madera, paja, paquetes, hombres, mujeres, niños o toda la familia.

Hay muchos pequeños pueblos en los lados de las carreteras con casas unifamiliares, pero de vez en cuando, también tropiezas con una gran ciudad, moderna, próspera y generalmente con un casco antiguo con fuerte influencia germánica, con iglesias góticas y algunas ortodoxas. Hay que mencionar, que Transilvània no fue invadida por los Turcos o Otomanos, en parte gracias a Blad Tepes.

El domingo visitamos Sibiu, la ciudad donde estudia Alexandra. Es una ciudad que están arreglando a marchas forzadas, ya que en el 2007 será capital mundial de la cultura. Ahora ya es interesante de visitarla, pero lo será mucho más el año próximo. El martes iniciamos una excursión de dos días por Sighisoara, una villa con una interesante ciudadela medieval, donde nació Blad Tepes. A la noche llegamos a Cluj Napoca, una ciudad que según el Alexandra sería la capital de Transilvània si ésta fuera independiente (algunos lo desearían ya que culturalmente y geográficamente es muy diferente de la Rumania de Bucarest). El domingo nos perdimos por las cautivadoras montañas de Apuseni.

En una de estas interminables carreteras de curvas, esperando encontrar una gasolinera después de circular durante kilómetros con reserva, entramos en un pequeño pueblo que a diferencia de los otros tenía una antigua gasolinera. Allí nos atendió un chico. Como no nos podía cobrar con visa, conté los pocos billetes que tenía y se los di para que cargara el gasóleo. Después le pedí agua para la Hymer y amablemente sacó una manguera conectada en uno de los lavabos.

Mientras la Hymer se cargaba, el chico me empezó a hablar con español. Me comentó que había estado trabajando un tiempo en Valencia recogiendo naranjas, pero no le gustó. Prefería trabajar aquí, en la gasolinera y en los fines de semana de discjokey, en un club del pueblo. Además, decía que las chicas de España generalmente eran gordas y que en Rumania las chicas eran más atractivas. Yo le comenté mi opinión, en Rumania las chicas son preciosas, pero también las hay en España y en Cataluña.

Uno de estos días, me sorprendió que Alexandra definiera los Rumanos como latínos. En realidad hablan una lengua latina, que se puede llegar a comprender si pones bastante atención. Estubimos discutiendo la cuestión y me acabó admitiendo, que a pesar de la lengua, culturalmente son más próximos a la cultura germánica que a la llamada latina. Los griegos (o helènics), en cambio, no se consideraba latinos (por la lengua) pero se consideraban de cultura mediterránea.

Entre otros temas también hablamos del famoso Dràcula y de sus vampiros. En Transilvània no creen en él, porque no deja de ser una leyenda moderna. En cambio, se ve que son terriblemente supersticiosos. Creen en brujas, espíritus, fantasmas ... Por ejemplo me habló de los espíritus que se quedan en los cruces de las carreteras, porque no saben dónde dirigirse. Por este motivo, en las puertas de muchas casas hay pintada una cruz, y detrás, el ajo no falta.

Naturalmente, también entrevisté Alexandra. Opinaba que la falta de comunicación interpersonal provoca la mayoría de problemas del mundo. Tendríamos que comprender mejor las otras culturas. Según Alexandra el principal problema de Rumania es la falta de respeto en mundo del trabajo que se solucionaría con una actitud positiva. Alexandra es feliz porque se considera independiente y puede ayudar a los otros. Sería más feliz teniendo más tiempo. El secreto de la felicidad es tomarte tiempo para ir a la montaña a respirar aire puro, como en aquel momento.

Hoy viernes, al mediodía, después de trabajar un poco y de conectarme a Internet (al igual que algunos otros días de esta semana), me he despedido temporalmente de Alexandra con un fuerte abrazo y un beso he empezado a hacer camino hacia Ucrania.

Hace tiempo que me oriento observando la posición del sol. Pero hoy, llegando a la frontera me ha sorprendido que la carretera se dirigiera todo el rato dirección al sol poniente en vez del Noroeste, tal como indicaba al mapa. Pero no ha sido hasta más tarde, que me he dado cuenta que debido a la latitud (ya bastante más en el norte) y a la época del año (próxima al solsticio de verano) el sol se pone en el Noroeste.

En la frontera de Rumania me han dicho que tenía que pagar la tasa de desinfección (estos días, en las carreteras de Transilvania tuve que pasar como mínimo por 10 túneles de desinfección). Yo les he indicado que ya había pagado esta tasa en la entrada de Rumania. Pero ellos me ha indicado que la tenía que pagar dos veces. Pero finalmente me han preguntado de qué país venía y me han dejado pasar. Unos metros más allá un policía me ha pedido el comprobante del pago de la tasa de carreteras. Creo que lo pagué en la entrada, pero no encontraba el papel. De todas maneras, entregando el pasaporte y el resto de papeles no me han vuelto a pedir la tasa.

Mientras esperaba en la cola de la frontera con Ucrania, he cogido la guía europea y he leído que tenía que haber pedido el visado de entrada a Ucrania con antelación, que valía unos 40 o 100€. Tenía la página marcada, pero con el paso del tiempo me había olvidado completamente de ir a una embajada y pedirla. Ya me pensaba que tendría que volver a Bucarest, y más por ser español, porque hacía pocos días se habían enfrentado España y Ucrania a los mundiales de fútbol y Ucrania había perdido. Pero me han ido pidiendo los típicos documentos y me han dejado pasar sin problemas y sin pagar nada. Eso sí, han estado revolviendo toda la Hymer, sacando ropa, retirando cajas, destornillando tornillos. Y al cabo de una hora y media me han preguntado: "llevas narcóticos", yo he contestado "no" y me han dejado seguir.

Ukraine

Lviv (see on map)

17/06/2006:

A veces también hago cosas malas, como por ejemplo adelantar en línea continua. Hoy ha sido la segunda vez que me paran. Ya me pararon en Transilvània. Allí me pusieron la multa, les dije que no llevaba dinero y me dejaron marchar diciéndome que la tenía que pagar antes de dos días (no la pagué). Hoy los policías eran mucho más ambiguos. Primero me han dicho que me retenían el pasaporte y que tenía que ir a un banco a sacar dinero. Pero no me decían el importe de la multa y en vez de eso me preguntaban el importe de las multas en España. Finalmente me han escrito en un papel 100hry. Les he dicho que se esperaran y he ido al coche. He calculado el importe en euros y eran 15€. He vuelto con 15€ y los he entregado al jefe. Él me ha devuelto 5€ diciendo que era la propina. Y me he marchado mientras ellos exclamaban vivas en España (no sé si para el partido de fútbol de hacía unos días). Ha sido la primera vez que he sobornado y no me siento extraño.

Pero no ha sido la última. Pocos kilómetros más allá otro policía me ha detenido, esta vez por circular demasiado rápido. De todas maneras, creo que sólo me ha parado por ser turista, ya que no tenía enfocada la pistola captadora de velocidad hacía mí.
Krzysiek de Polonia me había comentado en un mail que si hubiera nacido en la Europa del Este no tendría tantos problemas en las fronteras, ya que estaría acostumbrado con el soborno. Así pues, esta vez ya he entregado directamente 5€ y el policía me ha devuelto la documentación sin problemas.

La buena noticia de las carreteras ucranianas es que la gasolina sólo cuesta 0,6€/litro.

Las carreteras hacia Lviv han transcurrido en medio de una planicie, con pequeñas ondulaciones, y con un paisaje muy similar a las zonas planas de Transilvània. Quizás Ucrania es un poco más seca, al no tener montañas cerca. Los pequeños poblados seguían discurriendo al lado de la carretera, con todo tipo de animales cerca de las casas. De vez en cuando una grande y moderna ciudad. En el campo seguían cortando hierba, recogiéndola, labrando, paciendo ...

He llegado a Lviv sin ninguna referencia de donde podía estar el centro, ya que no disponía ningún mapa. De todas maneras he ido circulando por lo que me ha parecido uno de las calles principales, empedrada, llena de bonitas casas antiguas. De todas formas, al final he aparcado y he preguntado a unos chicos donde estaba el centro y donde podía aparcar. No me sabían indicar demasiado bien y al final han decidido subir a la Hymer y acompañarme.

18/06/2006:

Realmente Lviv es una ciudad muy bonita. Por suerte Lviv no fue bombardeada durante la segunda guerra mundial y ahora es posible admirar su gran casco antiguo. Es un barrio tranquilo, muy bonito, lleno de edificios e iglesias (muchas) góticas, del renacimiento, barrocas y neoclásicas. Las calles son empedradas, como buena parte de la ciudad, y bastante anchas para ser antiguas.

En el sur del casco antiguo hay unas ramblas donde la juventud se relaja bebiendo cerveza y la gente mayor se excita jugando a todo tipo de juegos de mesa: ajedrez, backgamon, domino ... Las chicas pasean muy provocativas, luciendo sus siluetas esbeltas.

He pasado buena parte del día tomando el sol y nadando en un lago en el este de la ciudad. Los chicos que me guiaron ayer me han venido a buscar y me han propuesto de acompañarlos. No hablaban muy inglés pero he pasado un buen rato con ellos, bebiendo cerveza y comentando y mirando las atractivas chicas que tomaban el sol. El lago parecía privado, se tenía que pagar entrada para entrar, pero estaba lleno de gente, básicamente juventud.

Por la tarde ha llovido y he aprovechado para conectarme a Internet y más tarde he dado el último paseo por la bonita Lviv.

Mientras estaba conectado a Internet, no he podido evitar escuchar una conversación en inglés a mi lado de una chica que hablaba con un hombre, bastante mayor que parecía extranjero. La chica hablaba de una amiga suya ucraniana que se había casado con un americano. Comentaba que la amiga había tenido mucha suerte, por que en América los hombres no son tan machistas y también colaboran en los trabajos del hogar. Entonces ella también ha comentado que le gustaría casarse con un americano y no trabajar. El hombre le ha preguntado:
- ¿Y qué harás con el tiempo libre?
- Tener hijos y cuidarlos.

kiev (see on map)

19/06/2006:
Antes de empezar a hacer camino hacia Kiev, he subido al Hight Castle, una colina desde donde se disfruta de una interesante vista sobre la ciudad. De todas maneras no he encontrado ningún castillo, excepto las ruinas de una muralla al pie de la colina. Por otro lado, no ha sido sencillo encontrar la colina, ya que nadie me entendía cuándo decía el nombre en inglés. Finalmente un chico que hablaba en inglés me ha apuntado el nombre en ucraniano en un papel. Entonces la gente ya me ha podido orientar correctamente. Pero no los taxistas, ya que si les pedía ayuda sólo me la ofrecían pagando.

De Lviv a Kiev tenía unos 600 kilómetros para recorrir. Como la gasolina en Ucrania es muy económica (comparada con el resto de países) he forzado un poco más la máquina. De todas maneras, no he llegado a Kiev hasta las 9 de la noche. Eso sí, durante el trayecto he parado una hora para comer, y un par de horas más para limpiar a fondo la Hymer, que ya le tocaba.

Últimamente, en los largos trayectos intento aprovechar el tiempo. Por una parte no dejo de admirar el paisaje (que continuaba verde y ligeramente ondulado) y tampoco me privo de frenar un poco precipitadamente si visualizo una escena interesante de fotografiar. Algunas veces, también utilizo los trayectos para pasar las filmaciones de vídeo al ordenador para después renderizarlas. Por otro lado, últimamente he empezado a aprovechar el viaje para hacer ejercicios de meditación, de respiración y también de musculación. En los ejercicios de meditación intento ser consciente de todas las sensaciones que me rodean: el paisaje, la música, las sacudidas, el ruido del coche, mi respiración, el tacto ... En los ejercicios de respiración simplemente intento respirar profundamente y relajadamente, creo que eso me irá bien para la alergia que me afecta la nariz con rinitis. En los ejercicios de musculación tenso los abdominales, durante un periodo largo o en pequeñas intermitencias. Después, ayudándome del respaldo, fuerzo los bíceps, hombro, pectoral ... Sí, si sigo con este ritmo, en vez de viajar parecerá que me haya pasado nueve meses cerrado en un gimnasio.

En kiev he aparcado cerca de la Opera, dónde me tenía que encontrar con Dasha. Una amigos de Torelló, Pep y Ceci, me habían pasado su contacto. Bueno, en realidad no los conozco personalmente, pero reciben mi diario y hace tiempo que mantenemos el contacto a través de Internet. Desde hace años, Pep y Ceci han acogido Dasha diversas veces en Cataluña. Ahora, Dasha ya tiene dieciocho años y habla un catalán perfecto. Y quizás sorprenderá a algunos que no sepa hablar castellano.

20/06/2006:

Dasha me ha sido de gran ayuda hoy, aunque no he podido solucionar la mayoría de problemas que tenía que resolver.

Por una parte, la batería del habitáculo de la Hymer que se descarga demasiado rápido. La empresa me dijo que seguramente estaba defectuosa y me propusieron cambiarla. Según un listado de distribuidores de la Hymer, en Kiev había uno. Dasha me ha ayudado a localizar la dirección en un mapa que me ha regalado y a continuación me ha acompañado. Pero allí sólo había un concesionarios de coches. Al concesionario nos han dado otra dirección que no sabían nada de la Hymer. He decidido dejar la solución de este tema para Moscú, donde en principio hay cinco distribuidores.

Después hemos intentado encontrar recambios de campingaz ya que tengo casi todas las bombonas de gas vacías. A través de la web de campingaz había sacado un listado de cinco empresas que vendían en Kiev. Pero la primera no existía, o la dirección estaba incorrecta. Y la segunda (hemos ido después de comer) no venía bombonas. Pero no lo he acabado de entender, porque en la tienda tenían una bombona igual que la mía, vacía. Allí nos han informado que en algunas gasolineras llenan de gas las bombonas.

Después nos hemos dado un respiro y hemos ido a pasear por Kiev. Ya me sorprendió ayer la modernidad y prosperidad de Kiev. De hecho me extraña que algunas ciudades de la Europa del Este, antiguamente comunistas, (Bratislava, Sofía, Bucarest) tengan grandes diferencias con las ciudades de la Europa del Oeste. En cambio, otras ciudades como Kiev, parecen seguir de bien a cerca de la estela de ciudades como París, Barcelona ... Las calles son anchas, algunas empedradas, los edificios, modernos o antiguos, son diseñados con gusto y son mantenidos con cuidado. Hay muchos parques. La ciudad parece limpia. Y también hay bastante tráfico en algunas zonas. Pero es normal supongo, Kiev es una ciudad de tres millones de habitantes.

Hemos pasado por el lado de la catedral de santa Sofía. Después hemos visitado el monasterio de San Michael. Allí nos hemos encontrado a un amigo de Dasha que canta en la coral del monasterio y nos ha invitado a visitar el monasterio desde arriba, donde había otros chicos que cantaban la misa y de donde se disfrutaba de una interesante perspectiva del monasterio. A continuación hemos subido al funicular y hemos bajado hasta el río. Allí nos hemos encontrado con el padre de Dasha.

Dasha estudia música desde bien pequeña, piano y canto. Quizás por eso es una chica dulce y llena de sensibilidad. Es sencilla pero con mucha iniciativa, optimista. Es muy simpática, fácil de hacer amistad. Su sueño es acabar de estudiar música en el conservatorio de Barcelona, y acabar viviendo en Cataluña, una tierra que ama mucho. Vive en Kiev en una residencia de estudiantes, ya que sus padres viven a las afueras, en el campo.

El padre de Dasha es ingeniero aeronáutico. Aunque no habla catalán ni demasiado inglés nos hemos entendido bastante bien. Nos ha invitado a cenar comida típica Ucraniana. Me he pedido una sopa creo que de tomate, cebolla y patata; una butifarra deliciosa; unas patatas finas fritas y un tomate confitado. Mientras comíamos, el padre me ha propuesto visitarlos el sábado y pasar el día con ellos y he aceptado encantado. Muy amablemente se ha ofrecido para coger mi ropa sucia para lavarla en su casa. Finalmente, también se ha llevado una bombona de gas para intentar llenarla con gas en alguna gasolinera. Le he pedido que vigilara y que sobre todo después aceptara que le pagara.

24/06/2006:

Es de mañana, estoy escribiendo desde el portal de casa Victor y Irina, los padres de Dasha y Alexei. Hay bastantes mosquitos, pero el resto es perfecto. He dormido en una de sus camas en el piso superior de su pequeña y acogedora casa en el campo. Ayer por la noche estuvimos cenando en el jardín, cerca del fuego, Victor, Irene y una familia amiga. La Dasha al principio también estaba pero no se encontraba demasiado bien y se marchó. Comimos una sopa de pescado muy buena que tuvieron hirviendo bastante rato sobre un pequeña hoguera. La cabeza del pez también se encontraba en la sopa, una cabeza enorme para ser un pez de río. También comimos brochetas, de medida extra grande, que habían cocido a la barbacoa rociadas con cerveza y agua. Saqué el aceite de oliva y aliñé las brochetas y también hicimos un poco de pan con tomate (típico de Cataluña). Sobre la mesa también había tomates cortados, cebollas tiernas, rábanos y diversos tipos de hierbas que íbamos comiendo entre bocado y bocado. De vez en cuando, Victor servía un xupito de Vodka, brindábamos y nos lo bebíamos de una tirada. Y cuando la botella de vodka se rompió seguimos con xupitos de un buen coñac que les había regalado. Uno de los brindis se lo quise dedicar a ellos: "He estado viajando por muchos países: Francia, Italia, Austria, Hungría, Grecia, Rumania ... y anteriormente también a Latín América, India, África. Y os soy completamente sincero si afirmo que el país donde he encontrado la gente más hospitalaria, donde me ha ayudado más, he sido en Ukraina, habéis sido vosotros, por lo tanto quiero brindar por vosotros". Victor, aunque no tenía un inglés muy fluido se encargaba de ir explicando y traduciendo, siempre con una sonrisa, alegre. De todas maneras, este viaje me está enseñando a entender las expresiones y las tonalidades de las voces y muchas veces captaba el contenido de una conversación sin traducción, simplemente cazando alguna palabra aislada. Finalmente nos relajamos mirando como se consumía el fuego. Entonces Victor explicó un dicho de Ukraina: "En Ukraina la gente nunca se cansa de mirar o contemplar tres cosas: las aguas de un río, las llamas de un fuego, y los otros trabajando". Reí mucho y comenté que a mí también me pasaba lo mismo. Finalmente, cuando los amigos decidiron marcharse hicimos el brindis del cosaco o del caballo. Una tradición centenaria: cuando uno de los invitados quiere marcharse a casa, antes se tiene que beber de golpe un xupito, pero esta vez, con el vaso lleno del todo.

Antes de la cena estuve nadando en el río con Irene. Las aguas estaban bastante crecidas y tenías que estar nadando todo el rato para mantenerte en la misma posición.

Por la mañana, antes de dirigirnos hacia Teteriv con la autocaravana, el pueblo donde el Victor y el Irina tienen la casa, Alexei me estuvo ayudando durante tres horas a encontrar en Kiev un producto para el lavabo químico de la autocaravana. Después me acompañó hasta Teteriv, a unos 80 kilometros de Kiev, para volver seguidamente hacia la ciudad en autobus. En ningún momento me pareció que se sintiera molesto por estar ayudándome tanto rato. Al llegar a Teteriv nos ofrecieron un poco de comida y acto seguido Irina me pidió si tenía más ropa para lavar y ante su insistencia saqué un edredón y una almohada que lavaba desde Cataluña.

Con Alexey, y también con Dasha los días anteriores, hablé bastante de Ucrania. En Ucrania la mitad de la gente habla normalmente Ucraniano, sobre todo tocando a Polonia, y la otra mitad habla Ruso, sobre todo tocando a Rusia, de donde Stallin sacó millones de habitantes hacia Sibèria y los sustituyó por Rusos. De todas formas, todo el mundo habla y entiende las dos lenguas. Por otro lado, los sentimientos Rusos y Ucranianos están un poco enfrentados. Alexey y Dasha, como Ucranianos que se sienten participaron en la revolución naranja, que sustituyó al anterior presidente pro-ruso por el actual presidente, Iushenko. La familia que me ha acogido está bastante contenta del actual presidente, porque mira hacia Europa en vez de hacia Russia. De hecho, una de las acciones que hizo, fue dejar de pedir visado a los extranjeros, por este motivo no tuve problemas al cruzar la frontera Ucraniana.

El miércoles por la mañana estuve trabajando y por la tarde lo dediqué visitando el monasterio de Kyivo-Pecherska Lavra con la Dasha, y el gigantesco monumento de la independencia de Rusia. A la noche estuve con el hermano de Dasha y sus amigos. Alexey es un chico que estudia economía, está muy interesado con aviones y guerras pero al mismo tiempo tiene una gran sensibilidad por la escultura. Los amigos de Alexey tienen muchas ganas de fiesta pero al mismo tiempo son muy responsables. En todo momento tenían cuidado que estuviera bien y que no se me perdiera. Cogimos el metro para ir a una zona de discotecas. Me sorprendió la profundidad del metro, estuvimos dos o tres minutos bajando por una larga escalera automática. En la discoteca pedimos una botella de vodka, zumo de melocotón y cerveza. Hacíamos un xupito de vodka, bebíamos un poco de zumo y después un poco de cerveza. Naturalmente nos animamos enseguida.

He parado un momento de escribir el diario para desayunar. Hemos desayunado un poco de la sopa de pescado de ayer que había cogido más gusto, fría; patatas hervidas; un removido de carne y huevo; verduras frescas; y vareniki de confitura de fresa que han traído los amigos de la familia. El vareniki es una comida tradicional de Ucraina, tiene la forma de un ravioli grande que puede estar pleno de carne, patata, queso, confitura ... Más tarde tomaremos una infusión de hierbas y antes de comer, o después, empezaré a hacer camino hacia Rusia.

El jueves, Dasha y Victor me llevaron a un museo de casas tradicionales de diferentes zonas de Ucraina. Era un museo en el aire libre, muy grande e interesante. Después Victor se ofreció para coger las bombonas de campingaz que tenía para llenarlas en una gasolinera con la misma mezcla de butano-propano original. Este fin de semana me las ha vuelto y se las he pagado, a un precio increíblemente económico ya que el gas Ucrainés, igual que la gasolina, cuesta muy poco. Por la noche fui con Alexey y sus amigos a tomar una pizza. A medio camino cargamos a la Hymer un par de chicas que hacían autostop y pasamos bastante rato conversando con ellas, ellos, porque las chicas no hablaban inglés.

En Kiev hay bastante gente que hace autostop, a todas horas. No importa si paran un coche particular o un taxi, la cuestión es llegar al destino.

El viernes por la mañana salí por la televisión Ucrainesa, la Dasha tiene una amiga que trabaja en M1 y me invitaron a entrevistarme en uno de los programas, fue muy interesante. Yo también había invitado unos días antes a Dasha a participar en un programa de Catalunya Radio, ya que ella habla correctamente el catalán y en el programa hablaban sobre Chernovil, un terrible accidente que todos los ucranianos todavía recuerdan.

Después me cogí el resto del viernes para mí, trabajando y haciendo fotos por la ciudad. Estaba haciendo fotos cerca de la plaza de la Independencia donde estaban retransmitiendo el partido de fútbol Ucraïna-Tunissia del mundial cuando de golpe oí a mucha gente chillando primero de indignación y después con alegría sostenida, y al cabo de unos segundos de suspense uno gritos de alegría exhortante. Adiviné que Ucrania había marcado de penal y que se había clasificado.

Poco antes de marcharme de Teteriv he entrevistado Victor, que se había preparado la entrevista con antelación y ha contestado todas las preguntas de una tirada. Victor opinaba que el mundo tenía dos grandes problemas, el primero la contaminación de la naturaleza, tendríamos que decrecer la influencia de la tecnología sobre la naturaleza y tendríamos que comprender que la tierra es de todos. El segundo problema es el armamento y sobre todo el nuclear. El armamento nuclear mundial podría exterminar hasta 7 veces toda la vida de la tierra. Ucrania disponía de mucho armamento nuclear desde la desintegración de la URSS, pero destruyó mucho de este armamento. Victor querría que otros países también eliminaran su arsenal nuclear. En Ucrania también se tendría que desarrollar más la democracia y dosificar más la industria. Victor se considera feliz y sería más feliz si pudiera visitar muchos países de Europa. El secreto de la felicidad está en el trabajo, en mejorar su situación, de la familia y del país.

Después de despedirme de toda la familia recordándoles y agradeciéndoles que han sido las personas que me han ofrecido más ayuda en todos los años que viajo, he empezado a hacer camino hacia Rusia. A medio camino he subido a un hombre que hacía autostop. En Rumania y en Ucrania me he encontrado muchos locales haciendo autostop, pero éste era el primero a quien paraba. El hombre, con barba, de facciones duras y mirada serena, sólo de subir se ha señalado tres veces y ha parecido que bendijera la carretera. Le he preguntado si hablaba inglés, pero no ha contestado. De todas maneras, en medio de grandes pausas de silencio hemos mantenido una conversación muy básica utilizando símbolos. Me ha dicho que era capellán, él me ha preguntado si era creyente y le he contestado que no demasiado. Entonces le he explicado que viajaba por todo el mundo y nos hemos acabado felicitando de que España y Ucrania se hayan clasificado para la siguiente fase del campeonato. Al bajar me ha dado aproximadamente un euro por el viaje. Yo he rehusado los billetes pero él ha insistido. Finalmente ha bendecido la autocaravana. Creo que me guardaré estos billetes para ver si me protegen de alguna manera.

La carretera hacia Rusia se ha vuelto recta y un poco bacheada, cruzando una planicie sin ondulaciones. En un cruce me ha parado a la policía. Me han comentado que circulaba además de 50 km/h, el límite. Pero como he observado que no tenían medidor de velocidad y que sólo querían cobrar propina, he asegurado que no circulaba a más de 50 km/h, aunque fuera a 100 km/h. Finalmente me han tenido que devolver la documentación.

En la frontera con Ucrania me han intentado cobrar propina en tres lugares diferente, pero como sabía que tenía todos los papeles en regla he dejado pasar el tiempo y finalmente he podido pasar sin pagar nada. De todas maneras, como ya eran las once y media de la noche, me ha dado pereza cruzar la frontera Rusa, he hecho noche entre los dos países.

Russia

Tula (see on map)

25/06/2006:

Before pioneering the journey I have been thinking a lot about visiting Russia: policemen, corruption, mafia, complications, visas... But as I have kept on advancing in the journey and I have kept on solving all problems that I have kept on finding, some of them related with small mafia and corruption, I have lost any fear that it had at the beginning on the journey.

So, crossed the Russian border with less obstacles of those that I had imagined in a beginning. Nobody talked English, but have been quite kind filling or indicating myself how it had to fill in all the necessary papers and claiming the amounts that it had to manure from myself, more than 50€ for power to circulate for the Russian roads.

In Russia it has followed the same road plotted in drawing pen, across a plain where years and centuries behind the troops hitlerianes and napoleoniques had dared. Anyway, the area of the road was not plotted with drawing pen, it followed as boteruda that in Ukraine.

I have arrived at Tula mid-afternoon. I did not know where the centre was nor what I could visit, it only had indicated in my atlas that it was an interesting city to visit. I have kept on advancing for a wide street without finding anything that could be of interest. Finally I have stopped to ask someone. But nobody spoke English. When i asked them "do you speak English"? some looked at me as if i were an alien, . Afterwards I have asked in Russian the same one (I have searched it in the guide): "Angliyski bread Vu gavarite"?, then they already replied me "net" (not) less bothered. Finally, after some fifty persons (without exaggerating) a girl has been able to indicate me in a very poor English where the centre was and that there i could visit the Kremlin.

I have found the centre, with a big post, nearby a beautiful church, that, the Kremlin in the background, a statue that it seemed of Lenin, and typical buildings of the communist period, should be restored. I have gone out to stroll and to make photos and for the experience of before, I have not attempted to establish conversation with anybody. I have strolled for an alley half paved where from time to time had a interesting homes of wood, old and with very well worked details.

Moskow (see on map)

26/06/2006:
I have slept in front of a cibercafè where I was connected yesterday. While it was connected I noticed and remember that I didnt writte the article of the nou9 of the week yet and so I decided to stay and sleep in front, the same as other cars, and the following day in the morning to send it.

This morning, when I have opened the door have realised that it was parked in the middle of some stops of market and the cars that there were yesterday parked any more were not there. Then, a woman has indicated me in a kind way that to go and I have parked a little beyond. In the morning somebody had hit the door delicately, but i did not pay attention. This is not Istambul, they would have thrown the door there down to awaken me.

I have followed path towards Moscow, for a road that has become a motorway, in good state but not completely smooth. The people and homes that between Kiev and Moscow seemed to have disappeared completely (there was only, some small forest, more than meadows and meadows and some people from time to time) now they turned up again with more frequency.

And I have arrived to Moscow, the city more populated with Europe, with 10 million inhabitants according to my guide on journey and 20 million according to a girl that I have found later. The cities usually surprise me in some meaning or another and Moscow has surprised me for the wealth projected in its buildings. All the buildings, new or ancient, followed a communist line: rest lines, sober, serious... but unlike other cities of the east of Europe, it was sensed that the buildings had better finishes, more windows and even more aesthetic. According to Alexey de Kiev, Moscow is rich and beautiful because everything the money of Russia and long ago of the URSS they went towards the asset.

Another fact that has surprised me, but that as a matter of fact I already observed in other cities of Europe of the East, is that Moscow has less streets in proportion to its extension. Between streets there can be one separates of some 500 metres (or more) and among these you find islands of blocks of flats and parks, in which only you can access on foot or for small alleys that they send you in car parks. This yes, the majority of streets are very wide, big avenues, although sufficient to absorb the great amount of traffic.

In Moscow i had another contact. One of my readers (which I do not know personally yet), Carles of Sabadell, is married with a Russian girl and passed me the contacts of some friends of her. The friends have not been able to receive me today but the daughter of one another friend of his, Marina.

We have been walking for the centre, admiring the Kremlin from outside and the red post, with the pompous buildings, the mausoleum of Lenin, the cathedral colorida of Basil... When already we came back an image that I have not been able to photograph correctly has surprised me: six trucks crane in a row, taking away at once six cars that were in a row badly parked. I have decided more surely to park the Hymer in a car park and Marina has indicated me in downtown a very calm place near a park.

29/06/2006:

Marina studies politics She is a reserved, traditional girl, coming from rich home (each one of the four days that we have found ourselves brought some shoes of a different colour, combining with the cloth that she had) and, for the time being sailing in life without a clear direction. Her parents are organising for her some holidays in Spain to learn Spanish but she doesnt care in which city she will go, how much time, in which way... Her parents will bein charge... Anyway she is a very good girl and we had good communication.For another part she is also very patient, she gave me all the time that it was necessary to make photos, that sometimes it is not little.

Marina understands in the same way hospitality as the family Lapenko, in Ukraine. She has shared good part of these three days with me,showinginteresting places to visit and helping to finding the ones that i needed. Sometimes I felt that she accompanied me simply for the duty to be hospitable, but other times I had the sensation that she felt very easy in my company also. In any case, I have commentederthat it would give Barcelona the contact of some friends. But thinking more, I do not know with which friends to put in touch, because my friends, or the people of our earth, are not hospitable as in these last countries that I have visited.

On Wednesday we went in the morning to the distributor of the Hymer in Moscow. The driver of the father of Marina guided us driving in front . In the Hymer they attended to us very well and they were studying themselves the problem of the battery of the dwelling. In the end, after some calls, they advised me to change in Helsinki the battery, since there devices suitable for testing had all the electronic system of the selfcaravan. Explaining my journey to them, they showed me a leaflet of a travel agency called Alemana that organised journeys for everything , for example there was a journey in 5 months for all Asia, this yes, the journey was worth more of 8000euros. In any case, i explained that my journey does not have anything extraordinary.

After the dealer of the Hymer we went to visit a place called Poklonnaya Gora, high slightly for about the city and with a lot of history. For example, it is explained that it is the point where Napoleó expected fruitlessly that the dutiful Russians gave him the keys of the Kremlin. At present, in Poklonnaya Gora there is a big memorial to the second world-wide war.

Then Marina proposed me to visit the Underground, the same as in Kiev was very deep , but not as much in that station. Later, marina gave me a pair of hours so that I connected to Internet in a cibercafé, near her university, a building of architecture typically communist and of many floors. Towards the evening, but with a lot of sun, we have visited a park with many sculptures and there have interviewed .her.

Marina thinks that the nature should be protected, the peace, the people should be more amicable... Anyway the main problem in the world is the poverty, especially in Africa. Marina believes that these problems will be solved with time. She personally believes that she will be able to help with the solution if in a future she could work in any international organisation. In Russia the main problem is the people poor and without home. SHe does not believe that the problem can be solved with facility, neither she believes that she can help in the solution aside of giving charity. Marina consideres herself happy because she is young, with a lot of energy and without great problems. Marina would be happier if any of the problems of the world would be solved. One of the secrets of the happiness is to smile.

On Thursday, the same as on the former day it was hot. In the morning we wanted to visit the Kremlin, but I was reserved because of the visit of the president or of a dignatary Turkish. Then we visited cathedral Kram Khrista Spasitelya constructed few years ago. Anyway, in its inland there are a collection of stables and texts, which wants to give the impression that is constructed of some centuries ago.

In the afternoon, Anna and Jane, the friends of the Carles of Sabadell (that they had passed me the contact Marina) organised me an encounter with the director of news of the television NTV Chanel, Alexei Kouzmine. The meeting was scheduled in the Ukraine hotel and was very interesting. First we contemplated a little the impressive sights of Moscow from the attic and next I interviewed him to take the pulse of the world. At first he was responding in Russian and Marina translated, but the conversation was lent, and finally achieved that he spoke in English, and his english was not bad.

Alexei thought that the main problem of the world is the difference between countries and people in religion, political systems, money. These differences provoke terrorism, hatred, wars... Maybe the time will solve these problems, but the people in the rich countries should find some solution, since the consequences are dangerous for Europe, like the case of Transnistria in Russia. ... He attempts to collaborate in the solution of the problem from the news changing the mentality of the people in the good sense slightly. The main problem of Russia is the corruption. The people have to pay to the policemen, doctors, civil servants, political... to solve problems. The problem comes from the communism and believes that it will be solved with time, even though it will not be simple because the new generations are learning of the old women and the corrupt politicians dont show interest in ending the corruption. He could help in the solution of the problem not giving money to the policemen on the roads, but he continues giving money because it is much simpler to make it like this. Alexei consideres himself happy because of having family with all needs covered, even though he has to work hard. It would be happier if Russia was a freer country, with good laws with more honest politicians. The secret of happiness is to work as much as to cover sufficient his family needs and therefore not to be worried for this.

After the interview I became interested in other subjects that worried me on Russia and was very kind in dedicating me more time. He commented me that Russia, or Moscow, it is very rich and prospers in good part from the money that come from the oil and from the prices on the markets. He confirmed me the same comment that Marina mentioned, in Moscow there are not neighbourhoods of poor people, but of very rich. The stabilityis given by the oil and it makes that the people accept president Putin, even though everybody consideres he is a bad president, that he forbids the freedom of speech and that he has canceled the democracy matches completely. According to him, his television is the one that offers a more truthful and free information, but he is receiving pressures from Kremlin. He commented me that it will be difficult to change the president, since Russia is not like Italy, that thanks to a consolidated democracy they could put out Berlusconi. Russia is not Europe, neither is Asia, simply is Russia. With respect to these comments, he affirmed me that not many are interested to enter in European Economic Union, although it could be positive. But politically it seemsthey do not want its neighbours, for example Ukraine, to approach to Europe and they to join it. Internationally also they have quite a lot of conflicts with China. According to him, China is a very egoistic country that will always do what it suits better.

Russia at present is receiving many immigrants and this is a problem, partly because many are from them Islamic and a crash of cultures is being produced. It does not stop being curious, however, that they are considered immigrants even if the majority comes from countries of the ancient Soviet union. Speaking about the Islamic terrorism he commented me that the people in Moscow are not afraid of new attacks.On the other hand he believes that the jug against the terrorism has been effective and has smothered the terrorists economically, making new attacks very difficult. Asking him about the education in Russia he has answered me that this is good, but like in all states, there is also corruption: if you pay you pass. Speaking about the tourism, he affirmed that Russia is not promoting the tourism (they ask for visa to enter, Moscow does not have tourist information office, some policemen bother the tourists...). Part of the problem is caused by the lack of infrastructure (during the Soviet union only there were 5 hotels in Moscow) but also the communist mentality and of control that they still drag.

I finished the conversation with Alexei about Hodorkorskiily, the magnate of the oil, and about his company Yucos, who wanted to confront with Putin. Hodorkorskiily pioneered the business perhaps stealing money and continued not paying taxes afterwards , like everybody. But his error was to face Putin. At present Hodorkorskiily is in prison for seven years, without political future and with its business in hands of the brother of the president. This demonstrates that e money are not sufficient to do what you want, cause power is also needed.

In the evening I went to the cibercafé again, I slept in front of this since in the morning I wanted to connect again. But at night, at two of the dawn, the police knocked on the door. I opened the window and they asked me something with Russian. I asked them: "parking, problem? nei, nei". They looked with the torch at inside and I indicated them with gestures that I was sleeping. Finally they left me in peace. On the first day in Moscow some policemen also asked me for the passport and became a little disturbing, I suppose to charge some tip, but then also they let me finally in peace.

When i conected to Internet I received a very bad piece of news for me and for many people: the couchsurfing portal that i used to contact people in the different cities that i visited had disappeared.They had a problem with the databases, they did not make right copies of the database. Being followed by casual facts that flow in disgrace. I sent an electronic mail to the colleagues of Serveis from Internet Javajan where i worked before, commenting them on the piece of news and alerting them that did not pass them anything similar to them.

Today we have gone in the morning to visit the Kremlin. The Kremlin does not stop being a red wall, of bricks, in the inland of which there is quite a lot of yellow and white buildings of the government and a few churches. Anyway, the churches are interestingo. Afterwards we strolled again for the red post, to the outskirts of the Kremlin until the cathedral of Basil.

It is good that in Moscow there are many public toilets, booths of blue plastic. It is good because sometimes you have need to use them, but they are a little disgusting because .....well I will not give details but I have thought that it is not badly to pay a decent toilet the fifty cents of other cities to use.

For the afternoon Marina has helped me in finding a place where to wash the Hymer, cause it was very dirty and i supposed that in Russia would be more economic of washing it than in Finland, my nearby destination. Afterwards, with the shining Hymer we have gone to make some photos in front of the cathedral of Basil.

01/07/2006:

Today I had to find Anna and Jane, the friends of Carles from Sabadell. Marina said that at 11 they would send me a message explaining me how it remains. But instead of receiving a message of them I have received a message of a girl that i had contacted time ago through the couchsurfing portal . As Anna and Jane didnt write to me I have remained with the Olga in the post Roja. Anyway, Anna and Jane finaly wrote me and we decided to go to the country house in the afternoon..

Olga is a girl that does not like to grow, to have responsibilities. We have been strolling for the street Arbat, full of shops for Tourists, and afterwards for the beautiful park VVC. There she has seen a place where they gave balloon and we have made the queue for having each onea ballon. I have given it later to a boy in the underground but she has taken it away towards home and she was very proud.

We have talked quite a lot of about friendship. she considers that it is very good making friends, she has many, but afterwards she misses them a lot. For example, she was studying three months in Portugal and she has many friends there and in Brazil, but also in Russia. Wherever she is always she misses someone. Especially her love from Portugal. I have explained to her that it is also very easy for me to make friends in this journey. Normally there is chemistry very good with all them and a lot of complicity, but I do not miss them afterwards with suffering. Simply I remember the good moments, with joy, happy having lived so pleasant instants. Perhaps I would want to repeat these moments, perhaps I will attempt in some case to repeat these moments. And this is my way to miss, to miss, without suffering. I have many good remembrances, which many times i would want to repeat, but which leave me a lot of space to impregnate me with new experiences and friends.

Towards seven I have arrived at the home of Anna and Jane, a small home with a big garden for where they ran, they jumped, they played and they laughed a pilot of swine, Anna, Jane and of a pair of even more. The adults were at a table eating and drinking, vodka, naturally. There was one that had quite started soon and already it went very cheerful. Later we have played football and he has broken the leg. We all have surrounded him assisting and when they have taken him away by car the party has practically finished.

I have liked the mechanics of the Russian grills. They put the wood across a recipient or hole, where this cream. The embers fall down under and they use thems to cook the meat. But the same recipient where they burn the wood can be used to smoke the fish.

N?vgorod (see on map)

02/07/2006:

In the morning we have gone with Jane, her husband, another couple and all the babies in a monastery called Savvino Storzhevskiy (monastery of men). There I have been making some photos and I have been stroll among the people who calmly also visited the monastery or attended the prayers.

Later I have seen them off thanking the moments that they have dedicated me and I have started to make quilometres towards Novgorod. Halfway I have put combustible, using all roubles that it had. I have followed the journey stopping from time to time in some gas station and asking if they accepted visa or euros, but nothing. Besides, all people that it crossed were too many small ones to have automatic cash dispensers. The people
They had homes of wood, some with beautiful details, like the homes that i had seen in Tula. Finally, when it already brought quite a lot of quilometres with booking I have decided of not being until solves the problem. I have stopped to a gas station that either they did not accept he visa nor euros. I have put 2 litres of diesel with the few roubles that I had left. Luckily, a couple who has seen me accepted to change 10 euros for roubles and I have been able to load 20 litres more (yes the fuel is very economic in Russia), sufficient to arrive at Novgorod.

Arriving, I have witnessed a long sunset. The latitude makes the sunset be very slow. During more of half an hour the sun has kept reddish to the horizon, in the west north, descending very slowly.

Finally I have arrived and it was still clear in Novgorod, at twelve of the night. Some party (I do not know because I thought that it was Saturday) has suited to me of desires and I have asked some boys for a discotheque or club. They have indicated me a pair of names but after giving a pair of turns, of not asking anything more and of not finding I have decided to park beside a park. There I have asked a group of boys and girls who were drinking beer. Immediately they have become interested in me and I have decided to stay with them. Some ten or fifteen were, from some twenty-one years. Have been interested a lot on my journey and for the selfcaravan. I have showed them and they have hallucinated. In a moment they have asked themselves me for the age, I have asked them to prove them and like always I have felt very well when they have started to say ages going around the twenty-five. From here few days I will fulfil thirty-four. Too much qualified is a truth that the youth of twenty years does not have of deducing ages, but I believe that the happiness that it provokes for me fulfiling my dreams and living in the present affects me positively.

03/07/2006:

Today I have visited Novgorod in the morning. The boys of yesterday had indicated me what I could visit and I have directed with bicycle. Surrounded by a big park, the kremlin is found, the religious, political and cultural centre of the city since the medium age. The reddish sleep walls, of bricks, and in the centre there are several administrative buildings and some interesting churches. I have come out for the door of the other end and I have faced a river, where some were taking baths and sunbaths, in a beach of sand. I have crossed a bridge and in the other side have found another e park of churches of different styles, very beautiful.

Novgorod is a city in the one that could have devoted all day long, for example had bathed Novgorod for me a while. But I had to meet in the afternoon with a girl in St. Petersburg and I have started to go on the road. I have stopped to have lunch and later has stopped me a policeman, the second one for excess of speed. Without wanting to hold up too much, I have given an equivalent to 1,5euros and I have followed the road

To St. Petersburg I have found Nati and her friend . We have gone for a beer and afterwards she presented me a friend, with a car of the mafia, big, black, with the smoked glasses, a Lincoln. They have told me "rise!." The doors have been closed and the boy has started to circulate like a madman for the streets of St. Petersburg. We have stopped to a manufacture to load something and afterwards we have been driving like crazy until we arrived to a park with a lake, where we have given of eating to the swans. There, Nati has explained to me that the car was from the company where they worked the three of them, she as a clerk and the boy as a driver. When we prepared to go, the boy has pioneered an argument with the friend of Nati, in Russian (i didnt undersand anything) and we have ended up going all on our ways by foot. I with Nati, with underground.

During the journey she has commented me that she is captivated of the architecture of Gaudí (she had read its biography and everything) and of Barcelona, she said that without doubt it is the most beautiful city of the world. sHe planned on visiting Barcelona this summer. I have explained that Barcelona is much more, when living in Barcelona you do not see the buildings , however, Barcelona continues captivating. Then she has asked me:
- Why you travel?
I have answered with the answer of always, when they ask me this question:
- Because it was my dream.
- But the one that I do not understand is that living, the most beautiful city of the world, in Barcelona you have this need to travel.
I have been thinking a while and I have then answered:
- This is as if you lived in a flat very comfortable, with all the whims that you can imagine: television, swimming pool, sauna... Perhaps you would not need ever to go out from this flat, because you have everything. But I would need to go out, to walk, even if I got tired. I need to breathe the friction air of the world, to discover it. And perhaps to remain to live in home of some friend, even if it is less comfortable. Because the good company is much more important than the place.

St. Petersburg (see on map)

06/07/2006:

According to my guide on journeys, St. Petersburg is one of the most charming and impressive cities of the planet. According to Nati, Barcelona overcomes it. And I also think that. And if I write this it does not mean that I miss, not even either St. Petersburg not being really a charming city. Perhaps i would repeat somthing that I have said other times, the people make a city or a country, and Barcelona and Catalonia captivate me because there I have fallen in love many times, and because I will preserve many good friends.

It is beautiful to stroll in a city where always it day, allmost at any time. However, its difficult imagine that this charm is keept in the winter, with ten or twenty (or more) degrees under zero and the darkness during all day long. Now in the summer there are many people on the street. The temperature is very pleasant, it invites to go with short sleeve but its not hot. The city is constructed among several rivers and canal, this makes it more interesting, also even though it makes it famous for the mosquitoes. One of these nights I have had really problems with some mosquitoes that have been filtered in the selfcaravan.

The architecture of St. Petersburg is very attractive, big buildings, different paintings keys, generally warm, many with sculptures, with relays, big windows... The streets are wide, covered of cables by the trams and for the lights that they must illuminate during the winter. There are many churches, of different styles, but all them very beautiful. And a curious fact, in the touristic places there are quite a lot of men advertising, many simply with a hanging poster from the front and from behind, but other, also with microphones and loudspeakers.

On Tuesday, after connecting to Internet, I took the bicycle and I went to give a ride arround the city. There are many places to visit and the bicycle has suited me a lot. I choosed the street of Nevsky, very commercial and with the majority of cibercafès. I rose for the canal of Grivoedova to photograph the church of Spilled Blood. Afterwards the impressive palace of winter, painted of white and light green. And finally I crossed the river of Bolshaya and of Malaya until the fortress of Peter and Paul, where the people sunbathed .

In the evening I came off again with Nata and a her friend and made a long walk until after 12 in the night, with the horizon still illuminated. Nata is a girl with sensitivity, she likes to write, the art... But she wants to change and she wants to come back more material, she wants to win money, to prosper. These days, before meeting me, she has been working a lot and she has been slep little. She was tired. Many times a sincere smile was drawn on her face, open, childish, but many other, she closes up, reflexive, worried.

During the walk, they asked me why the Russians when travel in Europe are recognised immediately. I did not know it but after thinking a little i commented that generally they are very thin , they dress elegant and provocative, they are blond and especially, high hill shoes. They are also usually very attractive, the same as in Ukraine, and I will not deny that this is not another factor that attracts people to St. Petersburg. Anyway they insisted that there is also something in the physiognomy that makes the difference, and maybe yes, even though I did not know how to find the difference.

The following day in the afternoon, Wednesday, I met again Nata. This time we went to a concert with other friends. The concert was very good. two Russian groups singed, one of reagee and another of rock. It surprised me that during the concert noone was drinking not even smoking. I do not know if smoking was prohibited, but alcohol they sold in the palace of sports where it was celebrated the concert.

Today in the morning I have been washing cloth at teh home of Nata and i worked. In the afternoon I have strolled again with bicycle, this time the other side of the city . I have gone until the church of Lavra Alexandra Nevskogo. There was a very long row of believers who occupied some two hundred or three hundred metres until the entry of the church. In a basic way they were women with handkerchiefs tied , some reading some holy book out loud and making the sign of cross at the same time. I have attempted to ask diverse people what they expected, but nobody knew how to speak English. Afterwards I have strolled for one old and interesting cemetery and to the to go out I have made the same question about the crowd to some priests (I do not know the name in Orthodox) very well clothed and decorated. Miraculously they knew how to speak English and they have briefed that they were waiting for a relic of Saint Joan Baptista, in particular a hand, coming from Montenegro. Instantaneously the novel "Baudolino" has come me to the memory, of Umberto Echo.

Afterwards I have followed the itinerary until the cathedral of Smolny, painted in white and sky blue. I have continued a little more for the side of the river and already I have come back towards the Hymer. I have hanged the bicycle behind and I have directed to Nata Home to search the second washer for the selfcaravan, in ropes tied to the cupboards, in all directions.

I have been talking with Nata and I have finished showing her photos on my journey. Then I have proposed her to take the pulse with her and she has accepted.

Nata said that the greatest problem of the world is the state of the world environment and the natural resources. The scientists would have to find the solution, of all ways Cream proposed the nuclear energy not to abuse the natural resources. Personally he will try to work in an organization, in concrete in an organization who is in favor of the nuclear energy. In Russia, the greatest problem is in the education: to the universities they teach too much theory that cannot be applied in the labor world. The solution would be in absorbing the experience of the Europe of the West. Nata consideres happy because she has promising future. sHe would be happier more traveling. The secret of the happiness is not to lie yourself saying that everything is well and to be active to improve. Your character is your destiny.

After the interview, she has asked :
- When you will go of St. Petersburg?
- I do not know, that I have not planned it yet, it.
- If you want, tomorrow in the evening we can go to a club, and to the end of week to visit a monastery to the outskirts, but afterwards I do not know what we could visit more. Of another side i have to cancel another appointment that i had this weekend.
- Then do not cancel it, probably tomorrow or the day after tomorrow I will start to go towards Helsinki.
- But what will you do in Helsinki? there you do not know anybody.
- Do not be worrying because of that, I am traveling alone for all the world!
- Anyway, if you want, I spend this weekend with you.

Sometimes I have felt treaty like a boy because of the Russian hospitality and Ukrainian. The friends who have received me and have offered hospitality sometimes they feared that moving around without any of them, could make me get lost . Also I have felt like this with Nata, worrying why i would do for the weekend. But I have guessed that really she wished to attend the appointment instead of being with me and I have insisted that it would go the following day.
Finally we have seen off with two kisses.

07/07/2006:

This Friday in the morning I have made the last stroll with bicycle in the city, it wanted to finish making some photos and to visit some monuments again with the light of the morning, instead of the afternoon. I have also risen above the dome of the Cathedral of St. Isaac, from where I thought that there would be a good sight of the city, and there was one, but not to make the good photos that i wanted. For another hand , I have not had time to visiting the Museum of the Hermitage, one of the most important of the world according to my guide.

I could have remained more time to St. Petersburg, the city deserves it, and apparently, for that going round and has other interesting places to visit. But Finland claims me, I will meet someone dear on this journey, Alexandra de Transilvània. SHe will not arrive until Wednesday in the morning, in Turku, but am impatient for the re-encounter, and being more near the fate it makes me feel more near her.

Before going I have stopped to a supermarket, and fearing that the prices in Finland would be much more expensive, I have attacked food and also of alcohol, beers and vodka, surely will be appreciated by the new friends that I will make on the road. I have also loaded gas , since in Finland, as the rest of Europe, the prices are the double that those of Russia.

During the journey I have seen a beach of sand beside a river and many people bathing and sunbathing. I made quite a lot of heat and I had desires to swim, I have given half a turn and I have been there a good while, swimming and sunbathing.

To go out from Russia, contrarily to the one that I waited for, has not been at all complicated. They have paid attention me in two offices different two young boys who did not seem too corrupt. At the Fineness border they have only looked me at the passport, nothing more.

I have stopped for dinner exactly after the border and I have continued driving by night, but with the sun was illuminating, going down under the trees. The queue of trucks that there were for entering into Russia, parked beside the road, has surprised me. I have recounted some twenty quilometres of trucks, many of them transporting cars, the majority good cars, of different brands. Analysing it well, afterwards this huge queue has stopped surprising me, on the one hand, Russia exports a lot of oil and matters of everything, especially cars. But for another hand, according to my experience, the formalities at the Russian border are a lot slow, they have to prick a lot of information in the ordering ones and this is endless because the civil servants have to search individually each letter in the keyboard of the ordering one and to press it afterwards.

Finland

Helsinki (see on map)

08/07/2006:

I woke up on the side of a river that opened up to the sea. Yesterday in the evening i saw that somebody swimed, but this morning i have observed that the water was very dirty, with rests of tyre and plastics in the background. I did not swim. Instead of this I have worked a little, but the transformer where I connect the computer has stopped working. I have tried to discover what happened and i discovered that a fuse had been melted down. i knew that i had one more, at least i remembered having it when i left Catalonia with the Hymer. only after disarranging all the selfcaravan I have found some fuses that were of different size from those that i needed. I have decided to wait to solve the problem on Monday, that I will go to Finland, which in theory has to solve also the problem of the battery for me, to visit the distributor of the Hymer.

On the way to Helsinki I have crossed many circulating selfcaravans, with the majority i exchanged greetings, as is recommanded in the handbook of the good autocaravanista. It has been a pleasant surprise, since i have been in many countries and I did not cross with any selfcaravan. Aside of this, in the country an air of collective prosperity that also differentiated it from the rest of countries of the Europe of the East that i had visited was also breathed. The borders of the roads were cut with machine, the few fields that there were (forests were the rest) were worked in uniform way, with machinery. The country houses or of the small people they were new, fixed. The road was smooth!

In Helsinki i sent a message to diverse people, this time to boys and girls, through hospitalityclub.org, similar to the portal couchsurfing (that it seems that they came back to life), but less pleasant and that many more people. i sent it hastily since i did not know exactly when i would go of St. Petersburg. A girl sent me a message to the mobile inviting me to attend a play that they represented . it was at seven and I have been able to visit the city a little and to go to the point of information.

Helsinki is a very calm city, as a matter of fact little more than five hundred thousand inhabitants only live there. And little more than 5 a million in all Finland! The city is settled on the coast with many entries and exits, therefore each two of three you find the sea, with some port, a promenade and in the background maybe some small islands. There are quite a lot of parks. The buildings are simple but of quality, with many windows, and quite big taking into account that in the winter it is very cold .

I have gone to the theatre with the Hymer. The theatre was located in the middle of a forest, or of a park, a little put aside from the centre of the city. I have achieved to greet Hanna, the girl who has invited me and little afterwards started the play, an amateurish work but that they will represent during one month and half, bold, surprising, visual... even though I have not understood anything, because they talked in Finn. It has surprised me that in the end, two of the actors, a boy and a girl got naked because the hyphen required it. It is sensed that in the north of Europe they are more usual to the nudism, there is not any modesty. Afterwards they have commented me that this is owed the culture of the sauna, since the saunas are usually mixed, with family, friends, all naked and without shame to show themselves.

After the theatre we have kept a small group to go have some beers, I have brought some of those that i bought in Russia. It has surprised me that they all speak perfect English , it has surprised me more coming from Russia. But the one that has amazed me more, it is that between them they also talked in English, for respect towards me.

I have asked them about winter, if it was not hard to be in the darkness. They have commented me that yes, that it is a little depressive, the people go out less. But they have commented me that in the summer everything is offset, they can appraise the light and the heat much more. They go out more, take baths in the sea and in the lakes,

Afterwards we have gone to a bar where there were economic drinks (they were not at all) and I have taken them afterwards with the autoracavana towards a disco in the middle of a park and in front of the sea. It has not become dark completely, but at three already it was clear again. The music was not too good and i decided to going. they have proposed me to go to another place by the car of some friends, leaving the Hymer there, but i did not liked the idea and i was tired. I have parked in a calme place, a bit far from discotheque and I have started to sleep.

09/07/2006:

I woke up late. I have slept more than eight hours. But it is not strange, for many days now I sleep a lot, nine or ten hours. If I do not do this, I feel sleepy, and I have to take coffee. But I prefer not to abuse the caffeine and therefore I sleep a lot. But i dont like this, because i get the sensation that I lose many hours wich could be profitable to discover new things. In some moment I have managed to think that I have so much sleep because I do not have motivation, but I do not believe it, I feel very happy carrying out this journey. Other times I have thought that this is a consequence of life without plans not even pressure. Then perhaps should I require myself a little more? I do not know it, I am very well like this and perhaps to sleep so much is not so much problematic .

I have decided to go to park towards the centre, but when i opened the blind i realised that the car was parked near a promenade, beside the sea, by where strolled a lot of people. It was a Sunday with sun, it was hot, i had desires to swim, but not there. In the promenade there were some platforms to the sea, with some tables of wood where the people could wash carpets and moquettes, soaping them and clarifying them with the salty water (or not, they have said me that the water of the Bàltic is not much salty). In the back there were some long bars of wood where they drew the carpets to the sun and moquettes that seemed finished going out for market.

In the office of information of Helsinki they offer Internet freely. I have gone there to connect. While i unloaded messages I have received a message in the mobile from another girl of hospitalityclub. I have answered that i had desires to go to swim, that if she feels like. SHe has written again to me saying that yes and we met later.

First she has proposed me to go on a beach of the city, but halfway she has suggested me to go to a lake near Helsinki, where parents live. The lake was quite big, with very few people, surrounded of forests and with smooth rocks that penetrated slowly towards the water, hot, quite transparent, very clean.

The girl that i met , Salla studies theatre (Hanna did not know, the girl of yesterday, but she had seen her work). She also works in a shop, teaches dance , and a thousand and one more activities more. But luckily she had that afternoon free.

She has explained to me that in Finland the society is not that traditional, its very open. When she was eighteen, she went to live with her boyfriend and his parents without any obstacle. It seems to be normal to leave home when u are adult. Also she has explained to me that in Finland the Finn is spoken, but that many people still speak the Swede, or at least they know it. before the world-wide wars they were a lot of time under the command of Sweden. Also they have been a lot of time in silence. She explained me the anecdote of a friend of her that traveled in United States by train, and i found that the people, if he did not speak or he did attempt to pioneer a conversation with him they felt uncomfortable, however he felt very good in silence.

10/07/2006:

Today I woke up earlyer, an hour before i planned, because the hour of the alarm clock had not changed yet from Russia. But it was good, cause today i was g
oing to the distributor of Hymer in Helsinki to solve the problem of the battery and one another small programmed problem . I got lost a little , but i arrived in good time.

In the Hymer shop they have paid attention perfectly, have tested the battery with a device and have verified if the health was goodThey have changed it to me without any cost and also they have solved the rest of small problems. On half a day already I was in the selfcaravan , directing myself towards a supermarket.

After having lunch I have made a little nap and next have been working quite a lot , in a basic writing the newspaper and selecting photos, because with the problem of the fuses i had not been able to work too much with the computer.

Mid-afternoon, Salla sent me a message that we could meet in a market of used things, where she was attempting to sell a few things that wanted to get rid of.
It seems that in Finland in the summer everybody cleans the carpets, they cannot do it during the rest of the year, sell and buy in markets... I have arrived to the market in the late afternoon and Salla had already sold everything. We have been talking a little and I have proposed afterwards to interview her and take the pulse of the world.

Salla said that the greatest problem of the world are illusions, since they drive away people from present and from reality. She can only live the present.. The main problem in Finland is that people forget because of technology. Salla consideres to be happy because she lives as she wants. she cannot be more happy. The secret of the happiness is not to try to search this secret, simply to live it.

After the interview we have seen off and have come back to the selfcaravan to continue working and to think in Alexandra that at this moment is traveling by train towards Budapest, where an airplane will root towards Stocolm and where afterwards a boat takes her to Turku where I will be waiting for on Wednesday in the morning, of here a day and half. I have many desires to hug her
again and to apreciate her presence without thinking about future,because probably will not exist for us.

11/07/2006:

This morning I have been working more. Writing an article for the 9nou and another for Cambio16, since I will probably not be able to work too much the next two weeks, I will want to use tmost the time that I will share with Alexandra.

After working i wanted to visit the city with bicycle and also to go to swim, but it was late,so I have decided to visit some points of interest with the Hymer. After all you can circulate very well in Helsinki, there are a lot of car park and the points of interest are on the way to the beach where it wanted to go (the one who had recommended Salla ). The city, in spite of being Tuesday , was as calm that the end of week, with people sunbathing all over. They have to take advantage these few months of light and of heat!

First I have stopped, to the centre of the city, in a park beside the lake Töölönlahti. It was there very calm, there were few people. Afterwards I have visited the church Temppeliaukio, excavated in the rock. It is modern but very beautiful. I have also visited a interesting monument in Sibelius. And finally I have gone to the beach of Hieatamieni, full of people, in a basic way youth, and of these, in a basic way girls. It has surprised me that with so much culture of the nudism nobody made topless (it is not that i waited for it). I have been swimming a while, and really the water was very little salty. As a matter of fact, there were floors that I have identified of fresh water that grew very arran of the water.

After having lunch I have strolled for the market of the fish (kauppatori) that I have found very touristic, especially for the prices, with the most expensive salmon that the one in Spain, even though according to the one that had written it was not from fish hatchery. Afterwards I have visited the red orthodox cathedral of Uspensky and finally the white cathedral Luterana de Tuomiokirkko.

On ending I have gone to the centre of touristic information to connect to Internet to send the articles and consult the mail. Marc, the manager of Internet Services Javajan, the company that i managed before the journey, asked me to talk to me to consult about some subjects. We have spoken a while by telephone. Apart from speaking about work also we have commented in a fast way on some personal aspects. It has been very well, it has been the first time that I talk to a friend or relative of Catalonia. With my parents I sustain quite good the contact, but only by Internet. we agreed on it before going...

Before going towards Turku, where tomorrow I will meet in the morning with Alexandra, I have met with some Chinese that were making the half tour of the world. I have seen their car stopped in a semaphore. The car had a map drawing from Europe and Asia with all the itinerary that they made. It went to greet them but the semaphore has become green.

Turku (see on map)

12/07/2006:

I have awakened because of the noise in the street, and opening the blind of the bed i saw that the boat from Stocolm arrived in the port. I have dressed immediately, I have dressed up minimally and I have gone out to the exit of the shipyards. After a while I have seen Alexandra, among the crowd, I have approached from behind and I have hugged .her

The re-encounter was better than we imagined. After sharing a long hug and after talking for a while , at midday we have come out to stroll in Turku.

It was sunny and windy, it was not as hot as in the former days, rather cold air. Turku develops around a river. there is a big castle, mediaeval, painted in white and with a beautiful interior post. More up, strolling for the side of the river you find some ancient boats, some very beautiful. The blocks of flats have some flowers and sea symbols of summer at the windows, and open balconies. I have also observed quite a lot of scale models of boats, it must be the pastime of the winter.

We have crossed the river with a small ferry, free, and more up we have crossed again on a bridge in front of the cathedral. Coming back, a boy asked us from where we were. Afterwards he has presented. Mormón, was an American. He tried to convince us with his religion, but in the end he observed that perhaps we will not get convinced and so he went away..

Turku continues being a very calm city. According to Alexandra, the Finns are very simple: the way to be, from dressing... Also the buildings. i would say that they follow a minimalist art.

While we strolled i kept on making photos and kept on writing some observations on a paper. I have been doing this for days, not to forget about anything that i wanted to comment in the diary.

In the afternoon we have searched a deserted beach near a road that according to the map passed between small peninsulas and islands. We have found the sea current for several dirt tracks, but none of them drove on any deserted beach, all they ended in different homes of wood, all open, without fences, and each one with a small port or small beach. Finally, asking someone, we have arrived to a beach and community port. But non deserted. We have parked there and we have strolled for the coast, but we have not had a bath ourselves, because the sun did not warm sufficient.

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Descargaros gratuitamente mi nuevo libro "Cómo vivir feliz sin libre albedrío" desde mi página web librealbedrio.info o visualizad este entretenido video de introducción: youtu.be/qZHnjjiivs0.