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Diary Acesta este jurnalul lui Jan. Pentru a primi o copie prin mail inregistreaza-te pe formularul de contact. Momentan jurnalul este numai in engleza, catalana si spaniola.
‹ Previous (04/02/2007) LUNA Next (2007-04-05)› ‹ Previous (2010-06-01 - US) TARA Next (2010-06-15 - US)› Spain Alhambra (see on map) 09/03/2007:
it has already been three days since, me and Alexandra started this new adventure. We have been living for the last three months in the house my parents, in Vic, resting a little after the first part of the journey: Europe, and preparing this second stage, which surely will be much more thrilling: Africa, Asia and Australia, that will last for 2 or 3 years and will be endured also by our autocaravan. We have been going towards the south of the Iberian peninsula, Alexandra with a lot of diverse emotions but me not so much, as if this traveling is becoming a routine or as if i assume that this is my way of life; a life that passes calmly along many countries and vicissitudes; a life that I have chosen and that makes me happy, very happy. We have arrived to Granada in two days, without haste, since for another hand we have had to stop a few times: in Sant Sadurní D'anoia, where we loaded the material of CC ONG that we will distribute in Mauritania; in Vendrell, where we saw off a friend; and in Calp, where a sponsor inserted into the wheels a liquid that avoids the pricks. i had not visited Alhambra again since i had half of the years that I have now. Then it had impressed me and now has amazed again me, and also Alex . The visit has been a good way to keep on taking contact with the Muslim culture. Anyway, I do not believe that we will see often these incredible details of the Islamic art again in Morocco or in black Africa. Morroco Tetouan (see on map) 10/03/2007: its surprising the amount of agencies that sell boat tickets from Aljeciras to Ceuta or to Tanger. There are along many kilòmetres on the motorway and also in the boarding terminal. It is also surprising that the prices are so different from agency to agency.Anyway, all the offers are in general just for a return ticket: - I do not return ticket - i told them. - Oh! Dont worry, the ticket is valid for one year. - i agree, but really I do not come back to Morocco, I go through Egypt. Then they were turning their face from me as if i offended them with a cheap excuse. Finally, after comparing all prices, I have bought the most economic ticket, direction Tanger, that was 72€ for two persons and the autocaravan. Only after sailing through the waters of Gibraltar we realised why the price was so cheap in comparison to the other offers: the boat was quite old, even though they were giving a new look by painting it, and the journey instead of it being of one hour, as they announced the other agencies, has lasted three hours. After the disembark we have had to cross the border, where they have retained us a little checking out all papers and arguing about policy. It happens that in the lateral sides of the autocaravan, together with the logos of the sponsors, I have harnessed a map of all the world with the approximate itinerary that we are carrying out. i had downloaded this map one and a half years ago from Internet and then it seemed that there was a border between Marroc and Sahara Occidental. I had forgotten about it completely, because of that it has surprised me that an officer has made me come out of the autocaravan and look at the map . There were two more more border officers watching it. one of them asked me: - What is this? - It is the itinerary that we are making. - And this? - He asked again pointing exactly at the line that was separating Morocco in two. - This... oups, sorry, I know that this is an offence but i did not know , the map is from Internet and i had downloaded it some time ago... The apologies have been accepted but then the work of rectification came. They have scraped the sticker with the key, until the black border that according to them it did not exist dissapeared and afterwards painted it with a white paint so that the country came off visible without any division. on the other side of the autocaravan I had another identical map, but laziness didnt let me to comment that they to repeat all the process. We spent the night in Tetouan, in a gas station. We have watched a film from the computer and while we saw it we have listened a pair of shouts of goal coming from a big crowd. After finishing the film I have gone out and have discovered a bar with a hundred men sitting in front of a television prepared for seeing the second part of the game Barcelona - Madrid. They were at 2-2 and in the second part has marked Madrid and few minutes before the end Barcelona has tied, moment in wich everybody has stood up screaming and celebrating it. of course so did i. The thing that has surprised me is that they were so cheerful without any beer. Chefchaouen (see on map) 11/03/2007:
Chefchaouen is a charming town inserted into the slope of one of the mountains of the Atlases. It is quite visited, by local tourists but also by foreigners, and really it is worthwhile. The medina (or ancient helmet) it is very beautiful. The streets wind among the homes painted in white , sky blue or blue intense. The floor is paved, clean and sometimes painted also of the same clear colours, so that walking there you get the sensation of floating in the sky. There are boutiques all over, very neat, and in the low part small places handed with a few restaurants and many more boutiques. There were quite a lot of people havinf peacefull walks, probably because it was Sunday, and a lot more in the evening, when the streets have burst forth of the crowd. i already knew that a lot of marihuana is sold in Chefchaoen, because of that it has been easy to avoid the boys that from time to time came over whispering to me that they had drugs saying just a simple "no,thank s" . Fez (see on map) 14/03/2007:
Yesterday in the morning we awakened early, according to the Spanish time (one hour less in maroc) and we went to see the zoco (market) of vegetables that is held Monday but the streets of the medina were deserted . Even though the walk was pleasant, we did not find the zoco nowhere in the medina . And we did not find it until we came out with the autocaravan to direct ourselves towards Fez. The journey towards Fez was magical, with the fantastic light of the morning illuminating the green meadows. It is incredible that on the other side of gibraltar the earth is dry until Valencia and however in the south, they do not seem to suffer problems of water. On the sides of the road there were always children greeting, men grazing herds of sheep or goats or people simply expecting that a taxi stoped, all them of Mercedes brand, ancient and full to burst. Arriving towards Fez the landscape became more arid and wagons or donkeys loaded with jerry cans of water and children who guided them started to turn up. It is inserted into a big plain in front of the snowed Atlases. It has a big medina that we visited yesterday and today, with streets of soft pending all them full of bootiques, artisans working the leather, the brass or other materials, some mosque and a madrassa (the place where they educated the youngsters and where they were teaching the islam). We visited the madrassa of Bou Inania that in only one courtyard contains an art as fine and thoughtful that it can be compared and atached to Alhambra. The streets of the medina were not as clean as in Chefchaoen, even though we observed some donkey loaded of rubbish towards the outskirts. for another hand, at the entries of the medina there are also unofficial guides that make it heavy to attempt a guided visit. But with a little patience they can be taken out of about in an educated way. Today we have also visited the semi ancient medina, where we have taken the traditional mint tea while they attempted to sell us some carpets, and we have gone to lunch in the new city, rowdy and busy like a European city although in an arab environment . For eating I have asked for a delicious tagine of chicken with plums. Alexandra, who is quite a fussy person, has tried it and also found it good, so that she has dared asking for a tagine of vegetables. In the afternoon went to walk for the outskirts of the wall where we have met some nice Argentinians who curiously lived in Barcelona, where they managed a Bar. In the evening, our neighbours (a selfcaravan with Swiss registration number) came to our door. A German and a Filipin girl that have been very happy to meet Alexandra since Romania is a country that they had visited three times and they were captivated by its charm. At night, Alexandra has cursed, for third consecutive night , the noise coming from the mosques that punctually echoed through all the city superimposing the melodies. I already accustomed myself to it in other journeys and in the end i am more bothered by the annoyance of Alex than by the recitations . Meknes (see on map) 15/03/2007:
While going out of fes, we have stopped to a gas station to ask for water for the autocaravan and the owner of the gas station has offered us some in exchange for loading gas oil. While we waited we have pioneered a conversation about the situation of Morocco. I have commented that the country seems safe and that the people worry for the tourists: I have the impression that if any thief dares to steal from a foreigner in a medina, the traders and passersby will attempt to hunt and catch him. He has asked me about our journey and I have then explained the project of taking the puls to the world that we carry out during the journey and I have proposed to interview him for the project. Yusef thought that the main problem of the world was terrorism. The states should find the solution, anyway he could collaborate to give work to the people. There are people who do not have anything and they think that the suicide for the religion is the best frontage option to life. The main problem of Morocco is social, even though they are improving with the help of the government. Anyway there should be more investment in education . for Yusef it is a stable country and he feels happy because he lives here. If everybody would be happier he would also be . The secret of happiness is to love the people arround you. We have parked in the big square of Meknes and after having lunch we have gone out to walk towards the south, for streets without any kind of interest, with closed shops and the people surprised by our presence. Finally we have noticed that we were badly positioned in the map and that the medina and interesting monuments were placed in the north. Aside of the medina there is nothing more interesting than was fes. we have also visited the mausoleum of Moulay Ismail, an impressive precinct that does not have anything of envying to the very fine art of the madrassa of Bou Inania or to the same Alhambra. even though i had been in Morocco ten years ago, i did not remember these monuments with these ornamental borders, engravings and geometric paintings, that filled in each square centimetre of the walls and ceiling. Rabat (see on map) 19/03/2007:
Rabat is the political district of Morocco, and like all capitals it has quite a lot of places of interest, even though other cities are more attractive. It highlights the mausoleum of Mohammed V, contemporary monument but of an exquisite art, comparable to the former visited monuments. Near the mausoleum is raising the beautiful tower of Hassan, in the middle of a forest of columns of an unfinished mosque of the 12th century. The medina of Rabat has some interesting covered streets that flow in the Kasba dels Oudaia, a small fortified village that faces the ocean. The blue alleys of the Kasba remember Chefchaoen, even though they do not have anything of envying. Towards the outskirts of the city, in the middle of big avenues, green and clean, there is the necropolis of Chellah, the ruins of an antiq city that has surprised me for the great amount of birds: storks and other species, that were living all together in the trees of a small forest. Rabat is also a big city, therefore it was here where we could contact quite a lot of people across internet, with which we gathered ourselves on Saturday at different times. First we met with Hamid, a boy with a deep look and speaking good english, and the friend that he brought the, Nizar .even though in a basic way I speak French we could not follow the discssion with nizar in frenvch. They were both small employers. How it always matches, I was quite direct and I started to ask them about the situation of the country. First I became interested in the situation of the Occidental sahara, a region of Morocco with a strong feeling of independence led by the Polysari Forehead. They explained to me that the Polysari Forehead is formed by Algerians since according to them, Algeria has always wanted to have an exit to the atlantic. Despite everything, in spite of believing firmly that the territory belongs to Morocco, they agreed to give them a certain autonomy. For another band Nizar commented: - But why we have to divide the country if in all the world the countries are joining. What we should make is to dig up the old dream of joining all the countries of the Magreb: Morocco, Mauritania, Libya, Algeria and Tunisia. Also I asked about the freedom of speech and they manifested that there was some, even though it is logic that no one can speak bad about the king , because it is the only one that can sustain the cohesion of Morocco. Next we began the subject of the religion. They explained to me that the Islam is a religion of peace, because of that there have been more Christians who convert themselves to the Islam than the other way round. Next Hamid explained that the Koran is a holy book,dictated by god since there are countries described that Mahoma had never visited. I attempted to argue that in that time already there were travellers who could have portrayed for him such countries, but in spite of listening to me with a lot of interest he did not seem not even a bit convinced about what i said. Finally we talked about the possibility of men to be married with four women at the same time. he explained to me that this is a law that Allah gave to the men so that they did not have to search the sex out of the marriage. Since for another hand, the sex out of the marriage is totally prohibited, therefore, in Morocco or in any other Islamic country the young people cannot be boyfriends or girlfriends, they are only fiance and afterwards they marry. In the afternoon, I met with Yassine ( Alexandra stayed in the autocaravan sleeping). Yassine had a leg broken because three years ago he had a motorbike accident. he explained me that they had to operate him in a public hospital and that because of the inappropriate sterilisation of the material a posteriori the leg became infected until the bone, losing 8 centimetres . At present it is already much better, even though it is not cured completely. Maybe for this motive, Yassine was more critical with the system than the two friends from the morning. He also commented that in Morocco there is a lot of corruption, in the lower class (police,...), as well as in the upper class, fact that explains the big yachts of employers or politicians in Marbella. he also explained the case of a nurse, that only receives 250€ each month, of which 100 the rent of a flat and 2 every day for the transport . This nurse did not work at ease if not some patient helped with some tip. And according to him, this lack of motivation is the main problem in the work world. I changed the subject and I asked him about Sahara Occidental, to contrast the opinions of the morning, but he told me that he did not know too much . Only he knew that in the military hospital where he was there were several soldiers and officers because of the wounds of some mine, since the desert for that zone is infested by it. We followed the conversation about the Islamic terrorism, and he commented me that in spite of having had a failed atack in Casablanca recently, the terrorism hardly will root among the Muslims, first because the Islam is founded on peace and understanding and second, because the different media are educating a lot against terrorism. We talked again about the multiple marriages and he told me that having a second woman is better because like this the man can cover his needs if the first becomes ill. Anyway he did not know how to reply when I asked him why the women should not be able to marry more than one time. With respect to the prohibition of the sex out of the marriage he told me that in some villages in the mountains, the marryed couple, has to show a handkerchief stained of blood after the first night of marriage to demonstrate that the girl was virgin. Without taking out the subject, the conversation curiously derived from the Koran again towards the reasoning of the divine origin. he explained. - In the koran it id explained that to clean a dish without soap has to be passed seven times under the water and until little ago it has not been able to be demonstrated scientifically if it is enough to submerge it just six times .just after 7 times all the bacterias disapears. How could they know this in those times? The explanation can only come from Allah. We had sustained the conversation in the terrace of a coffee shop, clasped in some chairs placed in line. During the conversation Yassine touched my hands or shoulders to express better. I did not saw it as offensive, because for the Muslims the homosexuality is unimaginable, but it was strange in an unexplained way, maybe because people here are more friendly then in other cultures. to get up I offered myself to pay, but the same as it had hapened in the morning, Yassine insisted on inviting me. After paying, he made a call with the mobile and a friend came to search for him. They proposed me to go to take some drinks in some other place and I accepted on condition of going to search for Alexandra, which was now awake. We went to a modern bar where another boy that we had contacted through Internet waited for us. Salim, was accompanied by a french girl. Salim had been living for 15 years in France and he came back to stay in Morocco few months ago. he worked in a big discotheque, where he explained that quite a lot of alcohol ran there, even though the majority of Muslims considered that the alcohol was not necessary to enjoy yourself. We did not have much time to talk to them because they had to go, but before they went I asked Salim , if he was Muslim. He replied to me that he was a non practising Muslim. When we left, Yassine and his friend thought that this answer, could cause here in maroc quite a lot of problems. On Monday, before leaving Rabat towards Casablanca we went again to the embassy of Anglola in Morocco (on Friday already we had gone there but there was not the person who could brief us) . We asked about the possibility to obtain the visa for Angola but they replied that for us it would be impossible since the first requirement was to have the residence in Morocco. I had the possibility to obtain the visa for Angola from Spain, even though it was quite painstaking. But Alexandra had to obtain it from some neighbouring country of Romania (where she lives), because in Romania there was no embassy of Angola. We had been warned by other African travellers that to obtain the visa of Angola during the trip was practically impossible, but we had risked due to the complications of transacting it our country of origin. Now, in front of the first negative answer (only the first), I started to consider other alternatives to the plotted itinerary. Africa is an immense labyrinth, with closed borders, dangerous countries, impassable roads... If we can not go to Angola, which at present seems a relatively safe country, unavoidably we will have to cross other s unstable, like African Centre Republic or the República Democràtica del Congo (ancient Zaire). -- On Saturday also I took away the pulse of the world with the new friends of Rabat and I interviewed them: Hamid and Nizar thought that the main problem of the world is the war provoked by the inequalities and wealth. The solution would be in the understanding, acceptance and help of the other ones, independently of the colour and the religion. The main problem of Morocco is the lack of work, even though it seems that it is improving. The solution would be found investing in the country creating more certainty and security, so that new jobs were created with the increase of the tourism. They both help in the solution with the creation of their own companies. They were both happy for being Muslims and Moroccans because they felt proud. Nazir would be happier by fulfiling his dreams, for example having a family. The secret of happiness is to believe more in Allah and and to try hard to be a good Muslim. Yassine thought that the main problems in the world are the economic problems that generate terrorism, problems with oil, nuclear crises... He would not know how to find any solution because others with more knowledge havent found either. But he can make something to improve the world, for example to make boycott to the Cocacola, because it saves lives (the price of a Cocacola is the price of a bullet that kills children in Palestina). The main problem in Morocco is the lack of work and the poor quality of the education. Anyway, it seems that the country is improving in this sense. For helping in this sense, he would need more studies for reverting the knowledge to the country. Yassine considers himself very happy, since he is alive, with familia, friends... in spite of having some problems. he would be happier with a better education. The secret of happiness is peace. If you live in peace, even if you are poor, you will be happy. Casablanca (see on map) 21/03/2007:
Casablanca, few quilometres away from Rabat, is a huge city with a certain European air, even though it has its ancient medina (without any interest), a new medina (much more interesting) and its mosques, among which the huge and impressive Mosque of Hassan II. We parked in the park of the Arab league, which is crossed by a noisy street. Anyway the park is calm, with a romantic promenade with lined up palm trees. at the end of the park there is a neighbourhood constructed at the beginning of the 20th century, with a certain charm but also declining a bit. Crossing the neighbourhood there is a pedestrian street – not so typical out of the medinas - with small little visited shops. at the end of this street, going right, we discovered a covered market where flowers, baskets, vegetables, were sold... In the centre of this market, there is another building were several persons sell fish and sea fruits. To the outskirts there were several restaurants with the owners quarreling among them to see who obtained us as customers. Anyway, before we went to a pizzeria where Alexandra could eat an European meal and afterwards i went to one of the restaurants of the market where i had a delicious fried fish dish. The city is quite clean, even though there are not many wastepaper baskets. There is quite a lot of traffic, but not as much as to convince the people that is dangerous to cross the street among the cars in progress. In any case, there are no semaphores for pedestrians and the zebra steps is not respected for crossing. The human fauna is diverse, with boys and girls still clothing in a modern way, some even provocative, but the xilaves and the veils covering the hair are the dominating ones.a lot of poverty can also be seen, the disabeled dedicate their time asking for money and the rest to sale mobiles, or to clean shoes, cars, to watch cars... In Casablanca we have contacted people across Internet, this time girls, again in order to analyse the society from another point of view. Today we have met in the afternoon with Ayache, a Muslim girl of sad look that did not wear veil, even though she considered that she should wear it. We have spent some time in a beautiful coffee, where Ayache has surprised us asking us for an opinion about a delicate subject. she would like to go to live in Europe, because even though she has studied English philology she finds it difficult to find work in Morocco. Then she has explained us that a Moroccan man that lives in Germany has proposed to marry , even though he is already married with another woman. They would marry in a mosque even though the marriage will not come off registered , but when she will have a baby her situation would be assured in Europe. By asking for our opinion we also asked her if she loved him, but she responded that she never saw him, but anyway that she does not believe in love – when she was younger she had been disappointed. For another hand she considered normal that a man was able to marry twice if he could sustain both women. In the face of this approach she has also surprised us explaining that in the coràn the man and the woman are in the same position, and also in reality. And next she has explained the logic of some differences to us, that for example the man can ask for the divorce but not the woman: The man has more wisdom and however the woman is more emotional, if the man mistook in a small thing the woman would run to ask for the divorce, however the man would have more patience before acting like this. questioning her more we have noticed that there were no cracks in her way of thinking, for example she has explained us that she would like to live in Aràbia Saudí, because there the husbands protect more the women, they do not let them go out of the house without going being accompanied of a relative. This would not be possible in Morocco - she suggested - because here the women has to work. With respect to covering all the body, even the face, she found it normal, because also in the nature, all the beautiful things are protected, the same as the pearls. She explained that there are girls so nice that they cover completely in order not to attract other men. Anyway, the things change and the traditions disappear and with an air of nostalgia commented that in any case, the appearance can not change the essence of the religion, and she ended up longing for the past, in which the time did not have so much importance. We have seen off Ayache accepting her invitation to eat cuscús the next day in her house. Moments later we have met with Veronica, a girl from Venezuela that has been living in Morocco for the last 4 months, because she is inlove with a Moroccan guy. We asked her how she dealed with the religion and she has commented that the boy was not practising islaam, even though he is Muslim. In Casablanca the youth is influenced a lot by the European culture and the youth changed its mentality very fast. she explained us that in the discotheques people drink a lot of alcohol, also there is a lot of prostitution, and the tourists are not the only consumers. Asking her about Venezuela ahe has explained us that the situation is worse and that in Morocco people live much better and more safe. Later we have met with Anis, her boyfriend, and we went to have a tagine for dinner. Anis and Veronica met eachother in Paris, where they studied, therefore it was logical that Anis demonstrated a way to think more open and critical. For example, talking to Alexandra about lawyers - Alexandra has studied law -, Anis manifested that the lawyers in Morocco were very bad paid, because if one really wants to win a trial, instead of paying a good lawyer pays directly to the judge. Anyway, like all Moroccans, he defended the King, and he commented that he had brought economic stability and more openess . And when i asked him about democracy, Anis explained that Morocco is not prepared for a completely democratic government. Finally I have become interested about the religion in Morocco - I always take out this subject - and Anis has summarised its thought commenting that in Morocco being Muslim is a way to belong to the society. 22/03/2007:
Before meeting with Ayache we have visited the huge Mosque of Hassan II, the third biggest in the world, constructed at the end of the eighties. Also it must be one of the most expensive because, according to the guide, it costed 700 million dolars. In any case, with the minaret of 200 metres of altitude, it is the highest religious building in the world. Inside and in the exterior can fit until 200.000 persons, who really come in the month of Ramadan during the prayers. inside the mosque can be seen luxury all over, was worked by 10.000 artisans from all over Morocco. Pity that the guide does not let you enjoy the details, because the following visit enters in one hour, and then the mosque is open just for the believers. The visit continues with the room of ablutions, under the mosque, and the baths, which has never been used for matters of security. At noon we met with Ayache in the centre. She came with us in the autocaravan and guided us until her home, a neighborhood quite away from the centre. During the road we crossed neighbourhoods of rich homes and neighbourhoods of shacks, although in both cases, the satellite antenas were never missing from the roofs. Ayache and her mother live in an apartment of only two rooms, since her father died, the sons and the other wife kept the biggest part of the original home. We dined in the big room that is also the sleeping room of the girl. In the room there were three red sofas arround a small table. While sitting on the sofa, we noticed the ceiling, exquisitely decorated with flowers and geometric figures. On the walls there were hanged plastic flowers and on the other end a big closet with some toys and some books above. The mother, with a tired face - Ayache has explained that she was ill - and a tattoo on the chin - signal that had been married -, has brought an immense casserole of cuscús . On top of the cuscús there were boiled legumes and some meat that stood under. Ayache had already advised us that the cuscús is eaten with the hand - the right hand - and like this we have started to make the small balls of cus cus, even though both hosts achieved to prepare the cuscús with the fingers creating a ball that next they swallow, however me and Alexandra had to aspirate the cuscús that fell down on us, but in the end proved to be delicious. Alexandra has eaten with desires. another small problem of eating the cuscús with the hands is that it burnes and while we let some shout escape or achieved to control the pain, the hosts swallowed it without sensing the temperature. In any case, the experience has been unforgettable and would repeat it if we had some hosts again that will invite us for cus cus. -- We have taken the pulse to the world with Ayache that thought that the main problem of the world is the war, the solution would be to understand more eachother and not to manufacture more arms. She can bring peace helping with the environment and praying God that the war stops. The main problem in Morocco is terrorism that is being born among some poor youngsters. She is against and believes that the terrorists can not consider themselves Muslims because the Islam is about peace. Associations should be created for educating this youth. Ayache consideres herself as being a happy person because she can sleep and because she is a good person and pure, with a good relation with God. She is happier when she dries the tears of a boy or helps the others. Therefore, the secret of happiness is to help the others, because you can not be happy if you see the people arround you. Marrakech (see on map) 24/03/2007:
Once again - but this time in a special way - we have been received with great hospitality. Yassime from Rabat gave us the contact of his friend Hafsa, who managed a Riad, a traditional hotel, in Marrakech. We arrived on Thursday to the night in Marrakech and in spite of being prohibited to sleep in the autocaravan in the city we slept in a secure parking. The following day we sent a message in the morning to the mobile of Hafsa and she called us instantly. she welcomed us in Marrakech and she invited us to spend the days that we wanted in her Riad, even though she would not be in Marrakech until Sunday. sHe told us that her father Miloud, would expect us and that she would be very happy if we accepted her invitation. We launch to accept grateful and we went towards the Riad, hidden close to one of the big boluevards of marakesh. Mr. Miloud opened us the door and offered us a traditional tea while we strolled amazed by the main room of the Riad. All the room was decorated exquisitely, completely cone in a touristic madrassa or mosque. The floor was adorned with carpets; in the voltants of the room there were comfortable sofas with small tables in front, of wood richly recorded and pieces of bone inlaid; the wall stood up covered of tiles of arabesque figures and in the middle of the wall started the true master work: the remaining wall and the ceiling were splendidly sculpted with geometric forms and more varied drawings filling in each square centimetre where the sight was sent. After taking the tea doubting if really we had been invited, Miloud showed us the room that would be our room, in the first floor, from which we could contemplate the main room behind some beautiful handrails wood. The room was simpler, but not because of that less comfortable and immediately we felt as at home. Today in the morning, after spending the first night in the riad, mr Miloud has offered us a delicious breakfast, including, coffee, butter, honey, jam, bread, crêpes, croissant, milk... In the face of this wonder table, we have whispered among us if really we were invited again or this was part of some Moroccan call, to take tourists to the riad and to make them afterwards pay. Finally we have convinced ourselves that really we were invited and simply that we were sabotaging the famous hospitality of thr Maghrebian people. Aside of enjoying this splendid accommodation these two days we have been visit this beautiful brown city. Only of going out to the street you notice that Marrakech is different to the other Moroccan cities, and they must likewise consider it the thousands of tourists who fill in the streets. A huge medina, of which until now only we have visited the most commercial part, the zocos and the famous square Jemma el Fna, so marakesh proved to be a big spacious, clean city, with palm trees raising over the roofs,and with some arrogant encircling walls. The zocos of Marrakech are the most elegant of the ones visited until now, maybe too touristic and less traditional than the ones of Fez, but definitively attractive, as much that i could hardly take Alexandra out of there. In the end, today we have decided that I waited for her in the terrace of a coffee that dominated the square Jemma el Fna while she followed the walk for the zocos in search of some shoes. The square Jemma el Fna it is she considers one of the most fascinating shows of world, at all times there are movement and music, strident music of trumpets , charmers of snake and rhythmic of the drums of the dancers. The crowd wanders up and down, among the unemployed persons who sell juices of orange ( more people than ten years ago), the restaurants that cook meat in the ember or boil, the unemployed persons , the witches who guess the future, the Berbers who paint the hands with henna, the charlatans or true theatre actors , the showy water sales man, the other selers of traditional cloths or touristic objects that they introduce for you in the zocos. In all this confusion the music has only stopped all of a sudden some moments, exactly before they played the first notes of a nearby mosque, but these instants of calmness gone by, the chaos has governed again the environment. 26/03/2007:
Hafsa could not come Sunday and neither today, anyway, this evening, we commented to mr. Miloud that tomorrow in the morning we would go, I have checked again if we really have been invited - it was difficult to us to understand that we could have been invited in such a charming hotel. The son of Miloud, Tarik, was also there and as he spoke English I have asked him about the riad. he has explained to me that the riad was constructed some 40 years ago by his grandfather. During these years, the riad has been their home: they slept in the first floor and they cooked and they ate in the second. The room of the ground floor, the one that has the most exquisite decoration, they only used it to gather the family and the friends. The father, Miloud, was a police inspector in the section of narcotics - less drug that before has answered to me - but its been a pair of years since he withdrew and they decided to convert the home in riad. Knowing now the history it I has been easier to accept the invitation, after all we had been lodged in his home. Anyway, feeling endouded with Sraidi family I will publish their information and adress of contact so that any of the readers of the diary can take advantage and contact this good people in order to find accomodation in their riad(the prices will be offered by contact): Riad Kenza Rue Yougoslavie, 84 - Gueliz - Marrakesh Pellicle: +21224448686 Fax: +21276754716 Mail: ryadkenza@hotmail.com Today the wind has been blowing a lot, a wind that raised dust that blinded us - we have crossed fingers hoping not to find any sand storms in the desert -, so we have not walked a lot, however yesterday we appealed a part of the medina that we had not visited yet, to the south of the zocos and of the square Jemma el Fna. In this zone there are several palaces that can be visited. We visited the palace of the Bahia (the beautifull one according to translation), and here i should write again for i dont know wich time that the Alhambra is not the only perfect peace of arabic arhitecture . The palace of the Bahia is a huge building with splendid replete rooms of cal•ligràfics and geometric relays covering the walls and showy paintings in the wood of the ceiling, therefore, it comes off written one more time that I was wrong to say when we visited Alhambra that: "I do not believe that we see often these incredible details of the Islamic art again in Morocco or in black Africa ". Telouet (see on map) 27/03/2007:
We have gone out of Marrakech in direction of the Atlases, with the intention of crossing them and arriving at Ouarzazate, a city of the desert. As we approached we have started to discern them, quite snowed. The road has given up the straightness and has started curving, green near the waters of the river and dry at more altitude. The temperature outside of the autocaravan it has kept on descending while we continued going up, crossing small villages and more up, meeting only people selling beautifull vulcanic stones . We have stopped to make some photos and some people that have shown us their products, volcanic stones that they had cut for half showing the crystalline inland of intense and brilliant colours: green, red, grey... While i went back to the car, the seller kept on showting me the prices of the stones, like in an auction, until in the end they have asked us if we had anything for changing. I have offered them some sun glasses, that the CCONG gave us, and after negotiating a while we have ended up changing five glasses for a beautiful black stone with some shiny crystals inside. some turns later, we have arrived to the pas of Tizi N’Tichka , 2260 metres of altitude, with big patches of snow in the mountains . We have followed the road of slope and we have diverted few quilometres later on the left, for a paved path, which went towards Telouet. crossing the first village I have stopped to take a photo and a group of children have approached shyly asking for anything, sign that the road was frequented by tourists and that the children are accustomed - if they ask for it insistently - to receive sweets or other insignificant gifts. We have not wanted being less and removed a box of cariocas that CCONG gave us in order to empty the road. I have given the box to the biggest boy explaining to him that he had to distribute them among the ten children. But Alexandra has not trusted and did prefer that we ourselves distributed them. Then I have called the boy and I have claimed from him the box, which has made him unwillingly. Then we have opened the box and have taken out the 30 cariocas that were inside, moment in wich all children have piled the hands in the two raising windows for achieving one of the colours. We have attempted to distribute them with equity, but when we have finished the chaotic distribution and the children have grouped themselves for evaluating the profits, have noticed that some children had not achieved not even one and others more than ten, some of them cried. Too late. We have attempted to explain to the girl who had some more that she should distribute them and she seemed to understand the advice. Anyway we have gone before of the things being fixed. I expect that the blood did not arrive to the river, because this seems a perfect case to explain that the good faith without intelligence can worsen the things. Finally we have arrived to Telouet, a small village where there is a big palace that was inhabited by the last man of the" independent territory "Atlas" before the constitution of Morocco, it is not surprising then, that the current dynasty of the country has in the oblivion this palace that anyway still keeps well enough. We have parked the autocaravan in the square of the village beside another French autocaravan, and I have gone on foot towards the palace, piercing fields and a small river. I have crossed some arches half demolished and in an interior square I have found the guardian, to who I have commented on my intentions of visiting the palace. He has stared at me to guess how much tip i would give him and then, with tiresome gestures took out a huge key, and has opened the main entrance of the palace. he has explained briefly the ancient utilisation of the different rooms that we kept on crossing, until we have arrived to the incredible rooms that showed the splendour in wich lived the pashà. The guardian has simply commented that the palace had been worked by at least 300 artisans and he has seated in a corner expecting that I finished my photographic sesion. Ouarzazate (see on map) 29/03/2007:
The sun awakened radiant and also me, with desires to walk the streets of Teuloet to make some photos. There was a small market in the town and I bought some very economic vegetables, even though they attempted to tangle with the sum. coming back to the autocaravan I awakened Alexandra and after having breakfast and writing a little we went out towards Aït Benhaddou, a magnificent Ksar placed few kilometres in the north of Ouarzazate. We parked in an oriel before entering into the town, from which a privileged sight on the walls and houses of the Ksar was enjoyed. But while we had lunch a strong raising wind started to blow great amount of dust and so we decided to visit the Ksar two days later, when going out of Ouazazate. The few quilometres that sort out Aït Benhaddou of Ouarzazate were fantasmagòrics, the dust that raised the wind covered all the horizon and even the light of the sun. outside, the air was unbreathable, making the mouth pasty of earth . Therefore we decided to put off the visit to Ouarzazate and we went to encounter with Omar, who we had contacted through Internet. Omar had sent us the direction of his home through Internet, but this direction only consisted of a line, of a name of street without any number or another indication. We gave several turns through Ouarzazate asking for the situation of the street until we located it, we then asked a man in front of a shop if he knew where Omar lived. he thought a while which Omar we would have to refer to and next accompanied us to a home, where a woman - his mother - commented us that Omar was in the Cibercafè. The man accompanied us there and we met Omar, a very cheerful and genial boy. Omar lives in a simple but big house, with his father and mother. he does not work because he does not find a job that would want and because of that spends all day long connected to Internet, making friends and even receiving marriage proposals. While we took a delicious tea, he explained to us that a Swiss woman of 44 years proposed him a wedding, but he, in spite of the advantage of the papers, refused her because he prefers to marry to a very young girl. Also we spoke about other subjects, a bit of everything, but without entering in depth in any point, as if the Omar did not want to compromise his opinions. after a good while we thanked for the conversation and we were about to go, but Omar communicated us that his mother was cooking cuscús and insisted that we should remain for dinner. The father of the Omar seated with us. Omar came from the kitchen with a big teapot and a metal basin and he pored hot water on the hands of his father. Afterwards we washed ourselves in the same way. At the end, Omar went back to the kitchen and came from there with a big silver plate of cuscús and vegetables and three spoons. The father started to eat some with the right hand, I imitated him, but Alexandra and Omar preferred to use the spoon. This time, scrolling these with more skill I achieved to create balls of more compact cuscús that I put in my mouth without letting it fall down . the cuscús was delicious, and soon after finishing we said goodbye until the following day . This morning we have visited Kasba de Taourit, another lavish residence of the same patxà of the palace of Teulouet. The building, constructed from earth, stone, straw and wood, raises four floors, with simple rooms and others that remember the other visited palaces. Around the big palace there is a beautiful neighbourhood constructed also by reddish earth for which also we have strolled guided by a little boy who has persisted in accompanying us. In the afternoon we have gone to connect to Internet and we have met again with Omar . We have been working a good while on-line and Omar has invited us at his home again , but we have refused grateful, explaining to him that we wanted to go to sleep to Aït Benhaddou to visit it tomorrow in the morning and to go early towards the following destination: the anti-atlases. I had visited ten years ago all the places that I visit now in Morocco, but from tomorrow I will start to penetrate into unknown lands . And it is curious, if at first i explained that i pioneered the adventure without too much emotion, as if this of traveling was becoming a routine, this evening, directing towards Aït Benhaddou i had felt for the first time in this second stage, the emotion of crossing a door towards the unknown. Tata (see on map) 30/03/2007:
I have woke up again early and with energy, and came out to make photos with the light of the morning sun, with the people still awakening. i saw a boy, while focusing the camera towards the big Ksar that climbs to a hill, and started to discuss in a poor French . He has not asked me if I wanted him to guide me, but he accompanied me all the time and even has recommended me some better itinerary in the one that I chose, as for example to enter the Ksar from behind in order not to pay the entry. We have kept on rising a few inhabited small alleys, surrounded with reddish houses made of earth. The boy has guided me, going down from the peak of the hill. On the way back to the village i gave to the boy a few coins who immediately disappeared, probably in search of new tourists. We have gone towards the new destination (Tazenakht, Foum-Zguid and Tata), that it was not so unknown as i thought, while we were on the road, surrounded by lovely mountains of stones and of green oases of palm trees scattered over the bed of a dry river, we have crossed with tens of motorbikes and cars and other autocaravans and local cars. arriving to Tata we have asked two Belgians that were repairing the suspension of their 4/4 about the multitude of raicing cars that we saw and they have explained to us that they were participating to the non professional or economic version of Paris-Dakar. Tata it’s a town painted in pale pink and doors and windows in sky blue, and all them with porches of tiled columns and small arches. All girls wore veil, but dressed more diversely and with more living colours, some even with trousers and jogging suit. Guelmim (see on map) 31/03/2007:
Like always becoming already a habit, today I have awakened again early to make a morning promenade, this time accompanied by a dog, that has kept on following me all the while at a certain distance and stopping from time to time to scratch the fleas. We have strolled for the dry bed of the river, for the side of the palm trees and through the village that was coming to life. Next we have paid the camping where we have spent the night - the first in all the journey – and we have continued the road. We have arrived at Akka in few quilometres and the vicissitudes have started there of finding a girl that was volunteer in the town, which we had contacted across Internet . In the end, asking and asking we have arrived at her home door, but they have briefed us there of the girl is out in order to spend the end of week in Tata. Misfortune. Anyway I took advantage to visit Tagadirt, an oases near Akka. Alex has remained in the autocaravan, because in spite of the pleasure of traveling she is also very fond to stay inside, and many times she prefers to be relaxed in our small and comfortable home with her toy elephant , Tuki. In Tagadirt some boys have been curious and they have ended up going with me and guiding me through the immense palmerar - the garden, that they suggested - and for the village that climbed to a hill, with homes of stone and mud, many of which old and in debris. The children, with a French a little richer than mine kept on nominating me peculiarity that we kept on crossing and that they could be of my interest: "the cat", "the women", "the home", "the garden of the house","la", "the small children"... When we crossed another group of children, these looked at me with surprise and next exclaimed: "bon jour, bon jour!!. We have continued the route and we have stopped, in one of the few oases in this arid earth, to have lunch to the shadow of a palm tree. While we peeled the potatoes, beans and carrots to cook, some boys came to the autocaravan looking at it as if it was a spaceship. We have greeted with a "bon jour" and have kept observing-us at a certain distance through the window. Then a bigger boy came and explained to us that he wants to go to France to study Law and he was going to be helped by an ONG . The big boy has gone and we have started to eat while the other boys seated on the floor reading the logotypes of the sponsors from the autocaravan. Right before starting to eat the boys have lost the timidity and started to ask us for pens, fruit, balls, sweets... In the end, Alex has distributed some sweets. Bad option, because immediately new children asking for more sweets have arrived. We have refused a little annoyed. Among the boys there was one that seemed the most understanding, he has approached me and he has asked me if it wanted carrots. I have accepted and happy he has left with the bicycle and came back in a moment with a bunch of earthy carrots under his tshirt. In exchange, I gave him some sunglasses . In the afternoon we have arrived in Guelmim, a city with a bigger centre that we hadn’t seen since Marrakesh. We have parked in a gas station, I have gone out to see a league match of Barcelona - one of the few ties that still reminds me of my country is football - and we have next started to sleep. Laayoune (see on map) 02/04/2007:
We went out of Guelmim early towards southwest, for the main road of the South of Morocco that goes towards Mauritania crossing the western sahara. The Anti-Atlas mountains that on the former days cut the horizon disappeared and we found a tiny cultivated green field in the middle of an arid plain,. Sporadically, some herd of goats or camels grazed among the thickets. As we advanced the high-tension cable was going parallel to us in the same direction, we crossed a few white dunes, a pair of very white seas of salt, whirlpools of wind which it raised circularly any bead of sand that they found. For the road we kept on crossing with quite a lot of autocaravans, always French, with a few and some more frequent police controls and soldiers who greeted us as a rule and they let us pass. We had intention of entering into western Occidental and arriving at night in Laayoune, where we had contacted a friend, but in the morning, when we stoped to take a shower, we noticed that a pipe of the water of the autocaravan had broken and It lasted quite a lot of time to be repaired . So, we continued the road with three hours of delay, becoming dark little before arriving to the small town called Tarfaya, where we spent the night. We have arrived to Laayoune and have called Fadel from a public telephone and after little he came with his best friend, Nordin, in the modern and spacious square where we had parked. We have gone to take a coffee with milk in a nearby bar and we have started to speak about the situation of western Sahara . Fadel is saharaui, descendant of the nomads who long ago lived in the region, and he has explained us that the main richness was the fishing and the phosphates that are extracted from a mine near Laayoune. Anyway, asking him if Sahara Occidental could subsist as a country if they achieved the independence he explained that perhaps they would be even more poor , but could preserve the culture. In any case, even though Fadel advocated for the independence, this did not seem possible, because at present the region is inhabited by 200.000 Moroccans and only 40.000 saharians, but other 60.000 refugees from Algeria would join . Fadel continued explaining that the United Nations have been present in the region for 16 years - and effectively forces are seen everywhere - but yet the solution has not been found. Nordin made a discreet comment in Arab to Fadel and lowering the voice, Fadel told us that it would be better to change the subject, because we were in some public place and if the police caught him speaking about independence he could have to face a sentence to prison. When we left I got interested in Nordin, that explained me that he was a son of a Moroccan that participated in the "green course" when Morocco took western sahara into its rool. Anyway his opinions were very open and did not show preference for any side. for another hand, he also commented, that as demonstrating their friendship, both communities lived peacefully. Fadel and Nordin led us to know the city, built long ago by the Spanish, as a church keept magnificently shows it. We visited it inside and we were received by a priest who kept amusing us for a good while with his history. We followed the visit for alleys delimited by ancient shacks of the army at present converted into dwellings and finally they both invited us to lunch in a simple restaurant. We accepted grateful, but we regretted in the afternoon to have accepted, to know the wage that won Fadel: was 2,5 euros on the day working ten hours in a cybercafe. Fadel and Nordin shared a stew of camel, I tasted it and the meat was tender and good. Next Fadel explained that an employed person was looking after a herd of 120 camels of his family and that from time to time he receives the benefits of the sale of a camel, which is some 500 euros. He confirmed to Alex, that effectively long ago two or three camels were given to acquire a woman. In the afternoon we have passed a good while in the cybercafé where Fadel worked , connected to Internet. I have disconnected before and strolled for the neighbourhood visited in the morning with the intention of making some photos again. The people who crossed me looked at me surprised, especially looking at the shoes that I had bought in Casablanca. coming back to the cybercafè I have asked Fadel why and laughing he has explained me that according to the tastes the shoes were considered very ugly, because they came from Morocco. -- I interviewed Fadel that manifested that the main problem of the world is the war. We should understand us better ,between religions and cultures, and we would have to create international associationsto live with peace. He can personally not make anything for the solution, but all the humanity on the whole should do something. The main problem of Morocco is the lack of work. The politicians should attempt to create more possibilities of work, perhaps improving the international relations. Fadel consideres to be happy because he works, he has money to live and he lives in peace. he would be happier if there was more food in the world because the secret of happiness is to share it with the other. Nordin thought that the main problem in the world is the situation between Israel and palestina that is the fountain of many other problems.. In Morocco he does not see any great problem, neither with the Sahara that of another hand maybe only needs a little more development. Nordin is happy in a basic way because he works, even though in his environment there are many people who can not be happy because they do not find work. he would be happier if he had family with who to enjoy the life and this beautiful country that is Morocco. The secret of happiness is the woman: if you have a good woman and family you will be happy. Mauritania Nouadhibou (see on map) 04/04/2007:
We Have been two days on the road, passing the monotone and flat landscape , so flat that hardly it could be described where the horizon was starting. Only the cliffs in my right that were going down to the ocean gave a certain diversity in sight. The temperature has kept invariable entity some 20-25 degrees, with a constant wind that outside gave a rather cold sensation. The police controls were more frequent, but this time they started to stop us and to ask for all the documentation. Immediately we noticed simply that they required a paper with all our informations and Alexandra wrote a few that distributed to the following controls. For another hand, the herds of goats and camels disappeared from our sight, surely because on both sides of the road we started to discern posters that warned about the danger of mines out of the avenue. Finally, we have arrived at noon to the border of Morocco with Mauritania. We have completed all formalities without having to give any tip, everything with a little slowness. When I have asked a policeman if there was some problem with our passports the boy replied to me that there was no problem, simply that they were very professional and that everything required its time. Next we penetrated into the territory of Kandahar (name used by Fadel and Nordin), the space between Morocco and Mauritania. The paved road had disappeared and in front we had some three quilometres of a path of rocks and sand. The path - if really it was one - passed among several dislocated cars and some mysterious inhabitants who seemed to take care of them. At the exit of a curve we have seen on the peak of a hill a construction of wood that we have identified with the den of some bandit. But the path was going in that direction and we have discovered surprised that that was the first of a series of run-down constructions that constituted the customs. I have entered in the first building where there were three men preparing a tea. I have seated to wait in a chair that miraculously did not broke, and after a while one of the three men has gotten up and has aimed in a big notebook all the info from the passports. Next he has asked me what have for him and I have taken out a package of tobacco that i had bought for the occasion. But he refused and he has asked me for some other thing: a telephone, a radio ... Finally he has accepted two sun glasses that I had from CCONG. In the following two shacks a similar process has been repeated, but this time without giving any gift in exchange. I have paid the 10 euros of each VISA and the 10 more FOR the car and we have followed the road, and made the few quilometres that were missing until Nouadhibou a small city that has frightened Alexandra at first sight. ‹ Previous (04/02/2007) LUNA Next (2007-04-05)› ‹ Previous (2010-06-01 - US) TARA Next (2010-06-15 - US)› |
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