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Diary Acesta este jurnalul lui Jan. Pentru a primi o copie prin mail inregistreaza-te pe formularul de contact. Momentan jurnalul este numai in engleza, catalana si spaniola.
‹ Previous (30/03/2009) LUNA Next (2009-05-29)› ‹ Previous (2009-04-01 - Thailand) TARA Next (2009-05-13 - Cambodja)› Laos Vientiane (see on map) 05/05/2009:
Vientiane, the capital of Laos, is a very calm city only of half a million people without too much of appeal (or without any appeal, said our hosts Michel and Christine). Anyway, it has an avenue parallel to the Mekong river, with some simple restaurants, a much more modern and more expensive centre and a couple of monuments to which taking a glance is worth. Good, in fact, the Patuxai is ever the most horrible monument designing, a triumphal arch built in 1969 with cement given by the United States stationed in the construction of an airport. However, the stupa of Pha That Luang, started to build in 1566, was quite more seductive, with a high dome painted of golden colour, symbol of the Buddhist religion and of the sovereignty of Laos. One or two days would have been sufficient to know Vientiane, however, we have passed a fabulous week. For the first time (travelling without autocaravan) we have been hosted by a couple of Couchsurfing, Michel and Christine, which have presented us with a hospitality comparable to the Iranian or Egyptian. Michel and Christine are a Canadian couple that work in Laos as teachers for an international school (where the children of ambassadors, directors of ONGs and members of the government go). Anyway, 3 years before they worked in Nepal, and three more in Laos, they now start to pack to change continent, and to initiate a new adventure in Tunis. Michel and Christine were quite a lot tied up and stressed out with the end of course of the school and left us most of the time alone (even left three days to Vam Vieng to relaxed), insisting to take anything that we wanted from the fridge, offering us their bicycles to move through the city or to go to the embassies of Thailand and Vietnam to make the visas. Alexandra immediately felt at home, laughing thrilled while she walked the magnificent house and appropriating the command of the telly and the best sofa. Meanwhile, I made use of the calmness to keep writing my novel, that I finished about three days ago(i only have to revise it). Anyway, yesterday and today, we have also had more time to share and to converse with Michel and Christine, which have arrived more relaxed from Vam Vieng. We have been conversing a lot on education, on their next journey to Turkey, on the religions, and much more. It has been very interesting to know them and really we expect some day them to be able to do a visit to Barcelona to us to return them part of the hospitality. Si Phan Don (see on map) 10/05/2009:
In Laos, the public transportation seems quite expensive, therefore, inevitably we see ourselves obliged to copy the rest of the tourists and buy the tickets through travel agencies. Likewise, we made it to Si Phan Don to move from Vientiane, buying a night bus ticket. We thought that it would be a bus with the adjustable seats, but instead of that we were surprised in seeing that it was a bus with beds with capacity of about 30 people. It does not have to be said that the space of the beds was not so wide, even so the journey was nice, especially because the roads were straight and well asphalted. Very near to the border of Cambodia, Si Phan Don (translated as 4000 islands) is a marvel of the nature formed in the course of the Mekong river, when this is diverged bordering on crowd of islands, many of them existing only during the dry period, when Mekong is lower. I do not know whether really there are 4000 islands; what yes there is, its an island Don, where most of the tourists go. In spite of everything, the island preserves a rural and traditional air that i had not observed in any other touristic point of Laos yet. We occupy a bungalow big and clean (there were prettier other ones next to the river but Alexandra preferred this) and immediately start to make friendship with other tourists who lived in other next bungalows. While we made the journey with autocaravan, i often thought that without the car we would be nearer to the cultures and knowing more local people, but in Laos it is really not like this: we travel with tourists and live with tourists. Possibly, it is not our fault, for often we hear say that the Asian cultures are usually quite a lot closed and hermetic. Anyway, it does not stop being nice to relate to other travellers or people of the same tribe as us. On the other hand, travelling without autocaravan we visit less places but we entertain ourselves more in every place, having more opportunities of relaxing and more time to write. And it does not have to be said that, travelling with autocaravan, we would possibly not have visited Si Phan Don, or only have made it during a day. At the same time, already does weeks that we do not have the stress of having an accident, of being waken during the night, of finding the adhesives torn... Apart from the calmness of Don Det, one of these days we have done an excursion with bicycle to the adjacent island, Don Khon , where there are the attractive cascades of Somphamit to see. Both islands are connected by an old bridge of stone built by the Frenchmen and for where passed a small train that maintained the fluvial trade (and mining) interrupted by the cascades. After visiting the cascades, we direct more in the south of the island, passing of long small tropical forests, small fields and some isolated wooden homes, until arriving to a beach where I had swim and from where a small boat could be caught to observe some dolphins in the river, but the passage was too costly, and after the bath we returned to Don Det. Cambodja Phnom Phen (see on map) 13/05/2009:
When leaving Laos and entering Cambodia, immediately was evident that we had entered a new country and a new political system. We made the visa in the border, but they asked two dollars extra at the time of getting passport. I asked them for a receipt to make sure it was not for corruption and indeed, not wanting to make us any type of receipt they did not want to deliver our passports if we did not pay. I did not get too angry verbally, for i was in a queue with many other tourists ready to pay, so, I paid. The road of the north was very good, but it very soon started to get bad and during quite a lot of kilometres we found ourselves circulating through dirt tracks. The road was quite deserted, but from time to time we crossed with some car of luxury (among these a Hummer), a signal of being in a corrupt country. And, afterwards indeed, looking Internet I have discovered that Cambodia is one of the 20 most corrupt countries in the world. But the political problems are not finished here, for even if Cambodia is considered democratic, it seems quite dictatorial, with the same president governing from the fall of the regime of Pol Pot or of the Red Khmers in 1979, and with big metallic plaques along the road with publicity of the Popular party of Cambodia. Phnom Phen, the capital of Cambodia seems much more developed than Vientiane, favoured by the capitalism in front of the communism, but inevitably, there was also a lot of more misery. The bus left us next to the lake Boeng Kak, where there are different relatively economic hotels and relatively expensive restaurants. In the bus we had known a couple of Catalans, Jordi from Olot and Anna from Gerona, and all together, chose a hotel next to the lake that by night seemed pretty. Anyway, the following two days we have convinced ourselves of the bad choice, our room continuously creaked giving us the sensation that would be sunk in the lake and later Alexandra has discovered a rat in the toilet that today has eaten up the bar of soap that we buy. Perhaps, unfortunately, this pretty place will stop existing because as some owners of the area complained, a foreign company has bought the lake and plans on drying it to build a luxury hotel. Naturally, the corrupt government seems ready to help and is at the moment unaware of the complaints of the inhabitants of the neighbourhood. In any case, even if the brownish lake is not attractive, the area was nice, with an alley full of shops that offered prices double or triple of expensive that the ones in a lateral shop, empty bars with young cambogian girls that waited the occasion to hunt a tourist, different ranks of tuc-tucs (tricycles) or taxi motorcycles that waited customers, and many girls and women that dressed pyjamas. In fact, the image of the women already dressing pyjamas had surprised us on the way. I had already assumed that the traditional dress of the women was very similar to the occidental pyjamas (fine cloth, of light and bright colours, and with infantile drawings), but, reading an article I found out afterwards about these clothes being really pyjamas that were sold together with the lingerie. Anyway, to dress pyjamas had become popular in Cambodia because it is one of the freshest clothes that can wear. In any case, I also have to say that we have not observed any man in pyjamas. Yesterday, the day after arriving, we went out to walk through the centre, arriving to the central market, where they sold everything: fruits, jewellery, fish, meat, shells, insects and fried spiders... Afterwards we kept returning for the side of the river Tonlé Sap, which joines with the Mekong river in front of the city but does not have any attractiveness. We also went up to the Buddhist temple of Wat Sampao Meas, which contained some interesting paints, and I found a repetitive image with Laos outside: different men sold small birds caged so that you could release them. One more irony that it is considered a good work to release the birds when in fact you are encouraging that they are put into a cage, because the business is profitable Finally, today on Wednesday in the morning we have caught a taxi motorcycle and we have gone towards the south of the city up to the China embassy, where we have started to carry out the visa (in theory we will have it on Monday). Afterwards we have walked to the next museum, one that exposes one of the most regrettable episodes of the history of Cambodia and of the recent history of the world. Formerly, the buildings of the museum had been the classrooms of a secondary school, but during the regime of the Red Khmers, the building was converted in one of the most infamous prisons of the 20th century. From 1975 to 1979, between 17000 and 20000 people passed for the prison of Tuol Sleng or S21, of which only 7 people went out with life. The rest suffered endless hours of systematic torture with the aim of obtaining confessions and being able to be later broken the neck and slaughtered to the outskirts, in the infamous fields of the death (death fields). It is curious to know that some of the guards of the prison, and different leaders of the Red Khmers, also ended up suffering the tortures and the death in prison, because they had shown too much empathy with the victims. The terror which Pol Pot (the leader of the Red Khmers) managed to establish in Cambodia was held by itself because, if you did not manage to behave with sufficient cruelty against the victims, you ended up becoming one. Besides, you could never question yourself on the innocence of the victims, then according to the Red Khmers, it was better to trap ten innocents than to leave one guilty in freedom. However, who were at first the victims? Naturally the political dissidents, but also any person that showed signs of having education (for example to wear glasses) or of to have belonged to the middle social class. Pol Pot was a communist leader who thought that the peasants were the only representatives of the working class and that the cities constituted focus where it was very difficult to eliminate the activities of free market. So, when Pol Pot gained the revolution in 1975, he eliminated the monetary system and emptyed all the cities (more than 2 million people in Phnom Phen) and sent all the people to different regions to cut the forest and to cultivate rice, working with conditions of slavery. Many people died, and a lot more in the destination, the production of rice did then not obtain the goals yearned for by Pol Pot and the hunger extended to all the country. In the end, with a paralyzed industry (one of the 7 people that were saved from the prison Tuol Sleng was a mechanic that could fix machines) and a terrified population, was quite simple for the communists of Vietnam and deserters of Cambodia to conquer in 1979 most of the country, where they restored the symbolic figure of a king and a corrupt democracy. Unfortunately, these 4 years of Pol Pot to the power were terrible, for during the regime 2 million Cambodians (20% of the population) died, some of the most terrifying numbers in the history of the humanity. Pol Pot died exiled in the mountains in 1998 and since then, they have started to arrest and to judge some leaders of the regime, as the director of the prison Tuol Sleng, even though these (and all the other repressors) are justified arguing if they had not acted like this would have been converted in victims. Sihanoukville (see on map) 17/05/2009:
We felt likegoing to the beach and, having heard the beaches of Thailand are too developed and full of tourists,we decide of trying the only city in Cambodia that lives looking to the sea, Sihanoukville, a city that started to exist from 1955 when the only port of deep waters in the country (all the trade was developed before by earth or by the rivers) was built. The Catalans Jordi and Anna also came with us and together we went to the beach called Serendipity, the most popular and full of tourists. For luck, we found a quite economic hotel with compared to the prices of the area: five dollars for a quite big and clean room, with television and toilet. It does not have to be said that Alexandra was delighted with the room, in spite of the visit that we had by night from a huge insect of about five centimetres long that it insisted on going on the shoulder of Alexandra, while she screamed very hysterical that i killed it or took it out. The truth, it disgusted me to kill it and finally I managed to throw it out of the room. It was a day of luck for the insect, because if it had fallen in the hands of a Cambodian for sure he would have captured it, fried it and eat it. Jordi and Anna did not find room in our hotel and had to catch a room for double the money in a pretty bungalow on the beach. I noticed that they did not have the same budgetary restrictions as we and for example, with the same money that they spent to travel a year for all the world, our friends David and Maria could travel 4 or 5 years. Anyway, the quality in the way of travelling was noticed because, while we tried to imitate the way of travelling of our friends, Jordi and Anna they did not restrict from eating in the expensive restaurants of the beach. The problem was that apart from the restaurants of the beach there was almost nothing, besides, all the shops of the area had the products about four times more expensive than in Phnom Phen. Alexandra despaired immediately, commenting that she was dying of hunger all times, then we only found to the outskirts some shops that sold soups and some quite mediocre sandwiches. The second day in Sihanoukville, I went out to walk above the rocks in the west of the beach of Serendipity up to the beach of Sokha, where there was a couple of big hotels that took up almost all the extension of the coast. In spite of everything, the beach was pretty because at the end of this there was a fishermen. I arrived up to there and walked among its wooden homes, in the face of the surprise of the inhabitants that continuously greeted me with friendliness. There I found a local restaurant and with hunger from the previous day I ate up a couple of delicious soups and I bought some fruits to the local price. Afterwards I returned under the scorching sun up to the hotel. In the afternoon i had thought to bathe, but we met with Jordi and Anna and it became dark while we conversed. But, I didnt bath the day after, because at night I started to feel bad and the following day I passed it entirely in bed. I felt like vomiting, indicating to me that i had eaten something bad, although at times i thought that it could be malaria or some come back of the one that I had in Africa. Also Alexandra was feeling bad, some symptoms different to mine. So, when today we have already felt a little better we have decided to jump the budget and to do a good meal in a restaurant of the beach, Alexandra eating chicken and I fish, accompanied by a large jar of beer (which only cost 0,25 dollars, a promotion to recruit tourists). It has been a nice evening party, observing as the light it was turned off behind some clouds of torments and listening to the demands for the children that asked for charity or bracelets. Phnom Phen (see on map) 19/05/2009:
On Monday, we returned to Phnom Phen a day later from what we had foreseen . We returned to the area of the hotels of the lake Boeng Kak and stopped again to the same hotel where we had lodged ourselves previously. For luck in the new room there was not any hole for where the rats could enter, although the runs that these did through the ceiling were terrifying. It was also impressive as all our room rattled when the foreign girl of the room next to us invited the Cambodian young owner of the hotel to share it with her. We had to wait to today on Tuesday in the morning to collect the passport in the China embassy but we were still a little tired and ill and yesterday afternoon we did not do anything. In the morning we have collected the passports and have paid the Chinese visas (inexplicably the Alexandra had to pay 70 $ and I only 30 $). Afterwards, we passed through the area of the central market, returned to the area of the lake and passed the afternoon between the hotel and the small outdoor restaurant occupied by Veasna. Veasna was a very nice man that on the contrary to all the hotels of the area has a shop very simple but that does the best sandwiches (David and Maria: when you are through the area try the sandwich of omlet!). Yesterday in the afternoon I asked him how the repression of the regime of Khmers Rouges was lived and without any type of reluctance he started to explain to us that since small, his family lived in Phnom Phen. When the Khemers Rouges entered the city, these obliged the people to leave towards the fields ( about two million people), including the ten members of his family. Through the path they killed his father, who had been welded and once arrived to the destination killed his brother, who had been military police. After a month they divided up all the families displaced according to sex and ages and Veasna, which was 8 years, was sent to work to dig channels, beside another group of 30 boys of ages between 6 and 15 years. During the four years that he was working as slave for the Khmeres Rouges he passed a lot of hunger, for they only gave a bowl of rice every day. Even then, Veasna commented that he was lucky, because in other areas the food was still more scarce and the mortality due to malnutrition was sky-high. On the other hand, the group of Veasna changed of location every ten days, once a canalisation finished to take water to the new fields of rice, and when passing through the forest they could collect hidden roots or to hunt insects that ate with delight. When finally finished the regime of Pol Pot they could be brought together with the other two surviving relatives (of a family of 10 people) and returned to Phnom Phen. His home was occupied by vietnameses soldiers, but these told him that the family could occupy any other home empty of the city and keep it (the majority of the people that died during the regime originated from the cities). They occupied a good home for some years, but in the face of theneed formoney, in 1995 he sold it and bought one more humble near the lake. For luck, in 1999 the first tourists started to appear through the area and he opened the first restaurant, with quite a lot of success, even though he has always maintained it and has a very humble aspect. Now, Veasna seems a happy man, even if he looks with worry at the next drying of the lake Boeng Kak and the possible repercussion on the tourism. Siem Reap (see on map) 23/05/2009:
At few kilometres of Siem Reap is found Angkor, the greatest marvel of SE Asia. In spite of everything, after 3 years and a half of journey and of the numerous visits of monuments all around the world, it seems that I am losing the capacity to be impressed. In spite of everything, I paid the entry of 40dolas and was going by bicycle for three days over the tens of temples that there are spread by an enormous area. Yes, Angkor is gripping, but I personally felt more attracted during the visit to some temples visited in India and built also among the 9 and 13 centuries. And is more, leaving aside some temple specifically, what has fascinated me more in Angkor have not been the temples, but the patient and powerful fight of the nature to reconquer the ground occupied by the human constructions. Some temples preserve signals of this fierce battle and still preserve spectacular roots going among the stones of the walls and holding centennial trees. But in most of the cases, the temples have been conquered to the nature again and restored in a long process initiated at the end of the nineteenth century by French archaeologists. Anyway, even if the forest has been felled with many temples, foundations have been repaired, channels have been excavated to protect the monuments of the erosion of the water and even, in some cases have been reconstructed in stone on some new foundations; the nature can be considered the winner in Angkor. As they reveal images obtained by satellite, Angkor was the largest pre-industrial urban centre of the world, occupying an area of 3000 square kilometres (bigger that the current New York) and holding a population of a million inhabitants; a space that nowadays continues being taken up by forests and fields of rice. In any case, the Khmer Empire dominated the nature and the adjacent cultures between the 9th century and 13, when they built the enormous metropolis of Angkor and its temples, in general built with stone piled up in pyramidal form on some foundations of sand. The temples were built and confirmed first to Hinduism, later to the Buddhism and some centuries later another time to the Hinduism, under the sponsorship of an emperor that destroyed all the statues of budha. However, the religion finally winner was the Buddhist, although this was the cause of the decline of the empire, influenced also by the superiority of the empire of Sukhothai, the one that we visited some weeks ago in Thailand. The Khmer empire converted to a branch of the Buddhism called Theravada, which denies the deity. This negation of the divine took power away from the governors, who stopped building temples and lost the capacity to hold the channels of water that the fields of rice had to irrigate to feed the million of people of the city. Finally, the city collapsed and had to move where at present is Phnom Phen. Thailand Bangkok (see on map) 29/05/2009: Going out of Cambodia, we observed more than ever the catchers of insects. The catches were simple, consisting of a big vertical plastic, a light above to attract the insects and an enclosure with water to catch those that fell. In spite of already having observed multiple shops of fried insects in Thailàndia, Laos and Cambodia, it is still incredible that there are so many people selling them. But what I found stranger is that the people stopped in the shops, chose a type of insects, and after paying left happy with a plastic bag full of insects, which they tasted with delight. It was extraordinary that nobody put them to buy them and to eat them, or that were not taking part in any TV competition. Maybe after all, the insects were good. In fact, I ran into a traveller who tried the larvae of insects in a shop and ended up buying a bag because he liked them. Maybe we should also have tried them not to pass hunger in Cambodia, for luck, we were entering Thailand and we should not feel tempted to try them. Alexandra wanted to remain at least five days in Bangkok, resting but especially eating. What big difference with the two previous countries... Really I also felt like arriving to Bangkok. We have passed ourselves five days eating crisp chicken until bursting, and sweets, coffees, cocacolas... Also we have relaxed with the people of Overstay, the people of Couch Surfing with who we had been the previous time. We have been conversing, reading, writing and staking different games of chess or of escrable. On the other hand, also there was another reason to stay in Bangkok. The day before yesterday, on Wednesday, the FC Barcelona played the end of the Europe Football Cup against Manchester. In 2006, exactly at the beginning of the journey i also made all the possible to see the end of the Europe Cup in Tirana, the capital of Albania and the Barça won. This year the Barça was again in the end and with some other boys from Overstay we were in the tourist centre of Bangkok where at two in the morning there were many open bars offering the football game. I do not have to say that the game was excellent and that Barça won very deservedly, but was not as cheered up as in the 2006 in Albania, perhaps it was too late or perhaps there was a majority of amateurs of Manchester. ‹ Previous (30/03/2009) LUNA Next (2009-05-29)› ‹ Previous (2009-04-01 - Thailand) TARA Next (2009-05-13 - Cambodja)› |
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